PapaZ

Revolution Wheels and BF Goodrich tires package Rears 14x10, tires 265/50-R14 Front 14x8, tires are 205/60-R14 Wheels are Aluminum with Black 4 spoke center. Center caps and luugs included. Wheels are in near new condition and rubber is 99.9%. The wheels/tires were purchased about 2 years ago and installed on the car. Only use has been when the car is pulled in or out of the garage to work on the project. (Ongoing project but almost done). The car has yet to be put on the road. A buffing wheel with polishing paste will give the Aluminum a mirror shine. Since they've been on the car I haven't had the chance to wash or clean them really. I'm selling because I'm going to be installing coilovers and 17 inch rims. No spacers are needed for these. They bolt right up. The rear wheels are wide and ideal if you have rear fender flares. My car has 3" flares in the rear. Ican provide many pics (on the car, close ups of the wheel, close up of the tread, etc.) Asking $800 OBO. Located in Massachusetts e-mail pmb240z@comcast.net

I can't say for certain. I've owned a 280zx turbo (first car), then bought a 91 300zx, but now have been working on a restoration/modification project for almost 2 yrs on my 71 240Z. when they announce the new Z they stated that it was a cross between the original and last generation 300zx. I don't see much of the 240Z in there except for the three center gauges (sort of). I'm glad that they didn't really copy it 100% though. That keeps the original unique still I think. I'll have to judge it when I see one up close. I'm not crazy about the look on the rear lights though. Interior I like though. We'll see in May 2002 at the dealers. Whatever the case I doubt I can bring myself to hate one. PapaZ

I'm doing this very same job. I ended up disassembling my strut assembly. Took out the spindle pin (that was a task). Those were frozen solid. Pressed them out using a hydraulic press at work. If you get the strut assembly out you can bring them to a machine shop to press them out. I had to cut them first to remove them from the control arm. Ordered new ones as well as the locking bolt. Because it was easier I also used the press to remove the inner bearing (I tried with a brass drift to knock it out but it didn't go too easy, figured I'd use the press since it was available. The outer defenetly used a bearing puller and press combination. It made the whole job easier. I am bead blasting the trut assembly down to bare metal and will be repainting it. I started doing this all because I am doing the rear disk brake swap using 82-83 280zx setup. The backing plate which holds the drum assembly has to come off and is replaced with an early Maxima bracket. Check your struts at this point as well and replace if necessary. Also the bump stop and spring seat spacer. good luck and have fun. When replacing the bearing press against the inner bearing housing not the outer. (Good tip from Wick Humble " How to Restore your Datsun Z".

I hear you on broken bolts. The easy out is a good attempt but take your time in doing it. Soak the surrounding broken bolt with a good penetrating oil as well before doing so. In my restoration modification project (71 240Z) every bolt that has come out I've done the following. Chase the internal threads of the hole with a tap and also chase the external threads on the bolts I pulled out with a dye. Upon re-installation, I applyed Anti-Seize around the bolt threads so that will keep any oxydation and rust from forming and will make it easier to remove at a later time if rewuired. Torque down the bolt as required after. good luck