NapaBill

If you are using relays to power the headlights, then the current passing through the switch is only enough to trigger the relays, typically 150-200 mA. You can replace the stock 10A fuses with 2A fuses if you wish. Adding another relay for that load is redundant.

I didn't think to post pictures of the detent roller. Here you can see the old one alongside the replacement from McMaster-Carr. In the second photo the new one appears larger but that is just foreshortening in the photo. BTW, my left and right lower hinges are different. The right hinge has no detent roller, but an interleaved stop instead. The car was built in July of 1970 and I suspect the right side is original but the left side may have been replaced during collision repair. I'm hoping that the replacement roller doesn't increase wear on the detent arm due to being a harder material. I'll be keeping it lubricated. Namerow asked about mileage for the amount of wear...my car has about 156,000 showing on the odometer. The right-hand door did not have as much slop as the left, but I think that relates to the fewer number of times the passenger door is opened/shut than the driver door rather than the type of stop.

I told Jeff I didn't see mention of the detent roller being replaced and he said his was good. If anyone does need one I used a Press-Fit Drill Bushing from McMaster-Carr, part # 8491A202. It is 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD and 3/8" length hardened steel. Fit perfectly.

If a new run of the clips happens I would like to know so I can buy a set.

I know this is an old topic, but here are some pics of the clutch pedal from my 1970 240Z. Elongated hole in the pedal, which matched the hole in the clutch master cylinder rod; hole ground then welded with new hole drilled; Oiltite bronze bushing (5/16" ID, ⅜" OD, ¼" long) inserted with new clevis pin.

I'm just waiting for my kit to come from Caswell, but I found a power supply that looks identical to yours on Amazon for $60: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PWNQMYI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

You can also use Padded Dash Filler, with a prep/primer and the Sem spray. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JKE6Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W5LR9H6KI6ST&coliid=I33TFUQOEHJDTL

Is this you? http://www.ztrix.com/dashes/fiberglass-replacement-for-stock-240z-dash.html

This thread got me curious enough to have a look at my numbers. All the numbers are real easy to see with the freshly painted block on an engine stand! My car is HLS30-07715 with a build date of 7/70. The (matching) engine # is L24 010878. The casting number is E31 0660K. While that may indicate a June production for the block, the numbers don't appear to mesh with the schemes being proposed. Oh, and the car was originally titled as a '71, and does have the "NISSAN 2400 OHC" cam cover.

John, Try this source: http://stores.ebay.com/Restoration-Stainless Very nice stuff, all stainless. Bill

I can recommend Johnson Machine in Monrovia. I've dealt with them for 20+ years and they are excellent. Greg there just did my '71 240Z: Surfaced the head on three sides, replaced the valve seats and some valves, align-honed, decked and bored the block, polished the crank, rebuilt the rods with ARP bolts, magged everything, surfaced the flywheel and replaced the ring gear, balanced, etc. Cost was about $1500 including new pistons, head shims, ring gear, valves and seats and a gasket set. JMS Racing Engines 724 E. Huntington Dr. Monrovia, CA 626/357-2718 www.jmsracing.com.

Zvoiture, If the oil pan is off, I stick a piece of wood (a wedge or even a hammer handle) in between a crankshaft throw and the side of the block. That stops the crank turning very postively, doesn't unduly stress anything, and avoids the @#%& screwdriver slipping off the ring gear and sending your knuckles into sharp hard engine parts. Bill

Jett, sounds like there is an airlock. You have two methods to try: 1. Use a power bleeder. 2. Bench bleed the master cylinder. In other words, remove the m/c, clamp it in a vise and carefully (so as not to scratch the bore) bleed the cylinder by pushing on the piston with a screwdriver or drift. When all the air is out of the cylinder, reinstall it and you should be able to bleed the lines. Yes, you can do this procedure with the cylinder in the car by disconecting the brake pipes, but you will get brake fluid all over the place.