24OZ

So pleased your back.. you had us all very worried. Here's to your very speedy recovery. :)

Well done, you must be pleased.. now shows us the pics

Here you go Axtell, on a Plymouth Sapporo. They'd look much nicer on a Z, don't you agree

Hi Axtell here, i think, is the wheel you want identifying.. love the yellow Z thing. Looks to be from a '80-'83 Plymouth Sapporo / Dodge Challenger. These wheels are known to fit the Z. Bill - thank you, for the name of the wheels... they look good Nice Z too..

Thank you guys.. Carl, I think you are right and it is baked oil.. I was all set to hook the pan up tonight but from Ed's and your post I'm thinking I'd better clean it. I did try to do a little and it wasnt easy so I gave up and thought I'd post and see what you guys thought.. now I guess I'd better clean it... Does having backed oil on the oil pan give you any tell tale signs as to how the engine is performing? I was told that a possible reason why my pan was leaking oil from the gasket was possibly because the breather on the rocker as well as the PCV could be blocked... Thus creating pressure in the engine which has to go somewhere - Could this happen?? I havent done the check yet on the PCV as presribed in the Haynes Manual but I will hopefully have the found this weekend... I did find the bolts on the oil pan very loose, they hardly required any pressure in removing them which could mean this was the reason the pan was leaking in the first place! Thanks for listening to my ramblings :stupid:

G'day, Thanks for the info, i did an image search under google saw these and though ooohh nice . I'll follow the google link to the site. Cheers

Hi Axtell, I'd like to try but you'd need to repost your picture ... while your searching for it.. do you or anyone else know what wheels these are?? Thanks

You forgot Bus drivers... they are really bad in London, when they are at a bus stop and SEE you indicating to overtake they ignore you and pull out!!

Excellent work, as ever, Jerry

Thanks all for the great replys. My jack stand is a 2 ton basic one. Works great but downside is it isnt very low and therefore it is hard to get it under the front spoiler without angling it through the wheel well first. Most major drawback though is that it doesnt go as high as i would like it to reach, it also requires alot of work to get it moving, non of this fancy 3 strokes and your done

Has anyone taken there oil pan off and looked inside? I had too as I was changing the gasket so I also decided to clean it up and paint the outside.. What I found inside was a thin layer of black paint that's coming off in places. Should I remove this paint or leave alone? If it's coming off in places, leaving the smooth steel exposed, does this mean that it is slowly cloggig the filter. Or is this effect so marginal I can jsut ignore it and bolt it back on? Thanks.

I'm impressed with the axle stands you guys have, mine don't nearly look as sophisticated. Here's what mine look like. No digi camera, shot courtesy of a UK ebay auction. (these are hanging on a wall, not levetating!) There is a pin, so as to adjust the height of them, nothing like a crank that I noticed on drunkenmaster's pictures.)

I just found this interesting article on Zhome regarding storage.. short term and long term... The main question, here, seems to be how long can you go without starting a car before you begin to risk damaging it? And the answer is about 4 weeks. If you let your car sit longer than that without taking special precautions (outlined in 'Long Term Storage', below) you're courting disaster. The internals of your engine, transmission and rear end are bare metal surfaces which are highly susceptible to rust. In fact, they can cease operating effectively if they begin to get even a slight amount of surface rust. They are bathed in oil during normal operation and oil prevents rust. When the car sits, the oil drains off of some of these surfaces. Moisture is the key ingredient necessary for the rusting process and when the bare metal encounter moisture the result is... rust. The less moisture in the air, the less the tendency for rust to occur; dry weather in the southwest and colder temperatures in the northern climes help to ward off rust. High humidity accelerates it. Some so-called 'experts' advise people who don't drive their cars throughout the year to start them up periodically to circulate the fluids and, thus, keep the internal bare metal surfaces coated with oil. While this might seem reasonable, it is the automotive equivalent of the 'old wives tale'. It is exactly the WRONG thing to do. A car in short term storage needs to be driven at least once a month. It requires more than just getting the water temperature gauge off of the peg. The oil temperature should also be brought up to normal operating conditions - and this isn't possible if the car just sits in the garage - no matter how much you rev the engine. You need to take the car out for a drive for about 20 miles or a half an hour. When you go out to the garage to just warm the car up, what you're doing is raising the temperature inside the block - but the engine doesn't run long enough for the engine block to get entirely heated. As a result, when you shut the car off the difference in temperatures (hot inside but cold outside) causes condensation on the inside. Condensation is moisture - and moisture causes rust. A car sitting too long without being run also invites fuel in the carburetor and fuel pump to evaporate, leaving behind a gummy residue. Gaskets dry out are then prone to cracking and disintegrating... more things you don't want happening to your car's engine! So Dr. Hipo recommends a half hour of exercise once a month, every month. On the way back home you should stop off at the gas station and top the fuel tank off... because condensation can also form on the inside of a partially empty gas tank. The oil change interval isn't effected too much by inactivity. Moisture can be collected in motor oil and if it is, it reduces the oil's lubricating ability. Don't be pennywise and pound foolish thinking that you don't have to change oil just because you've only driven the car 250 miles in the past year. Under those condition, an oil change once a year is warranted (although changing the filter probably isn't - you can stretch that to every other year).

Thank you Keith, I was hoping you'd reply with a great pic and you did .. Trying to look at the black and white picture of the correct positon to place axle stands in the Haynes manual is like trying to look at fish in a muddy pool of water.. Thanks again

Hi Steve thanks for your help. The filter element is one of these which you can reuse as long as you purchase the cleaning kit.. I've doen this and given it a good clean, then you spray it with some special dirt repellant (oily stuff). thats what my filter was lacking.. Hopefully after everything is given a good clean and dust, all should be ok. Thanks for the input

Hi all, has anyone got a picture of where the correct position is to place axle stands at the REAR of a Z? I couldnt find a good safe place to put them so I ended up reversing the rear of the car onto ramps, works fine... but now that I need to adjust the handbrake I need the wheels to be free moving so i'll have to revert to axle stands. Thanks

:) Great news :) Thanks for keeping us informed.

I have read this story somewhere before, i think someone else posted it or it has been relisted... someone will fill you in im sure.

I don't know what the US figures are but I can tell you the UK figures for 2001. Z models registered at some point during the year are: 240Z: 152 260Z: 157 In the UK a Z in "show" condition is always advertised at about 13,000 US dollars. I say advertised as you never know for sure if that was the actually price the car fetched. The demand for Z's over here is not very high and thus its not really a sellers market. Alan, would you agree?

Awful news. Keep us informed on his conditon... Hope he makes a speedy recovery, perhaps you could print all these good wishes and give them to his sister once he pulls through the worst of it.

Hi I am looking for SCREWS??? I dont know if you can help but if you can then :) I have been having great difficulty getting these due to the strange thread they have. The screws go on the Seat tilt mechanism cover, their the real small screws.. Can you get back to me please. I could do with four. Thanks

If you have problems finding them stateside.. let me know. We have a very good electrical store here in the UK. I can make enquiries for you, should you need me too.

Thank you Carl for the info.. Yep, it was giving me a hard enough time! Its not comfortable at all working under the car, its actually one of my pet hates! Much prefer peering over the bonnet or actually driving the thing! Thank you... On further inspection and cleaning of the oil pan, (Im going to paint it blue on the outised), I dont think it has been painted black on the inside.... I think its just burnt oil.

Removed my aftermarket intake Cone Filter which goes into the Air Flow Meter (L28 EFI) and found it to be very dirty looked into the pipe it attaches too and feeds into the AFM and theres dust in there.. Car's running ok, but should i try and clean the AFM, since dirt must have gone in there... Whats the best way to do this? Thanks..