24OZ

My car has been pretty well undersealed... but i would like to do it again as some areas are begining to flake.. I dont think its a good idea just to paint over old underseal so i need to remove the old stuff. (anyone disagree??) Any ideas how to remove underseal which is extremely sticky (tar like)? I tried to scrape it but it just spreads it around and makes a mess... By the way, I plan on using POR 15 to underseal the car, after reading some good recommendations... (that should do the trick shouldnt it?) Thanks all.

Alan-- thank you for using your lateral way of thinking.... yes it is an L28 (from a 280ZX).. I hadnt thought of that at all!I will ignore the wire. Carl, Keith sorry to have totally confused you guys! My fault! I hope my Z wasnt made on a Friday afternoon ! Thanks

My mum has a 200sx turbo (the UK call them a Nissan Sivia ZX Turbo) and I have recently learnt that they came with a 4.11 diff which fits in a 240z. My mum has had this car standing for a few years and it is quite rotten, she is thinking of taking it to the junk yard and if so I might keep the diff if you all think its worth keeping. Are there any advantages to this diff? Is it more hassle then its worth to install? Thanks..

It definitely is a wire coming out of there... it may take some time for me to find a camera but I will take one for you guys to see. Carl - Thanks for the further information regarding the lower control arm screw.... things are all in bits at the moment... awaiting parts.

Hey, Thanks for that link, I really did like amany of those cars... My favourites were the interior of this 240ZG, showing all those gadgets: http://www.project240z.0catch.com/gold240zg1.jpg and the bodywork and colour of this car, it looks very modern... I wish the new 350Z looked as good as this: http://www.project240z.0catch.com/nohoodz.jpg Datsun76 - i do like it but i think i have seen nicer looking rear ends... especially on Jennifer Lopez.

A good start to your web site, I like the name of it and your plates are great too.. I look forward to you progressing on this... I would be especially interested to see photos of you takling different jobs and then having a "how to" on it. Sorry to be so demanding I enjoyed reading about the history of the car, nice... look forwarding to learning more and hearing if you will restore the interior to its original blue.

Hi all, as the car is on axle stands to renew the front bushings, i found it a good opportunity to inspect under the car.. I found a wire dangling out from the oil sump that has a connector on the end. What is this wire for and where do i reconnect it too? I looked but couldnt seem to find a place for it to go.. Thanks.

Keith, I am not going to put steering rack bushings in as they look very new.. However as you and others said its only 4 bolts and no big deal... I may have another go before i do that to see if it jsut clears it. Keith your FWIW is a good idea and I may do the same. Thanks Geoff, for your tips.. Victor Que pasa? . I may even give your tip a go too... a number of different and good alternatives.. Cheers Guys George. (Jorge to Victor )

Hi Carl, ... you remembered.... I kinda gave up calling it a transverse link after i totally confused most people! Yes, you are correct I am referring that the very bolt you have just described. I have undone the bolt which is at the rear of the control arm, now i have to slide the screw out towards the right and then you get the steering rack in the way so the bolt cannot be fully slided out.. Anyone else found this?????

Hi all, Operation Bushing Renovation has begun.. I managed to undo the lower control arm bolt which attaches onto the suspension member, however It looks as if i have to remove the steering rack inorder to get clearance to take the bolt off.. Is this correct or is there an easier way, without having to remove the steering rack? Thanks.

Steve, thank you for that info... I will check out the tag and also shout out.. "ALAN HELP ME PLEASE!" :classic:

Hi Steve, If you are sure there will be a date stamped somwhere for me to cross reference please let me know exactly where i'd find it. If my car was a pre 73, which i doubt, I would qualify for UK free road tax! Thanks.

Hi all, Steve- you asked what my VIN number was and it's actually earlier then yours and Ben's. My vehicle was first registered in Oct 73, VIN HS30 101354 I wonder if it was manufactured pre 73? has anyone got a picture of this fog light switch?

Hi Steve, please put your pics up in the gallery... I intend on taking pics of my 280Zx with all the rust and then showing her off after her restoration, which I am hoping to start in the next couple of months.

Hi, Try these sources, 1. Order a FREE Z & ZX Victoria British Catalogue. It also has great drawings of components and where they go, especially useful when youre doing suspension jobs etc.. You can call them Toll Free on 1-800-255-0088 2. Get an MSA (MotorSport Auto) Catalogue, (I think its FREE as well) 800 633 6331 3. Try this website www.courtesyparts.com

Dont feel too dispondent I get that all the time with Z32 drivers, I even get that response when I'm in a Z32.

Dozer, Thanks for the safety tips.. I have just done exactly that.. Tonight was merely a night to jack the car, place axles under it, scrape sealer of bolts and spray bolts with loads of penetrating oil.. Now I'll leave it all to soak, ready for tomorrow. Thanks all.

Hi guys, Does anyone learn where the switch would have gone for the fog lights? And if the wiring is still in the loom for the switch? Thanks, George.

Hi Steve, Sorry its taken me a while, I think you asked me when my Z was manufactured?... well I am not sure of the manufactured date but I can tell you that it was first registered on the 29th Oct. 73. I had a look under the front bumpers and low and behold are the holes for the optional fog lamps.. I have seen aftermarket fog lamps which look very similar to the OEM ones Alan posted.. May be tempted to fit them at a later stage.

Marty - good luck with your suspension resto.. Thats exactly what I intend to be doing shortly... let me know how you get on. I am goign to tackle the TC rod bushings myself but I am not too confident about the Transverse Link (lower control arm) bushing as I've heard it is a bugger to do and I dont really have the right tools.

Thanks all for your valuable input. I want to go stock but I think I will go the Urethane route, after what a few of you have said as well as because a kit exists. And after what 2ManyZ's says I will be using plenty of lube Another question for you all: I intend on taking the following safety precautions when removing the tension rods... Jack the car up and place 2 axle stands on the suspension member, then remove the wheels. By removing the tension rods shouldn't make the car move off the Axle stands should it? Thanks ..

Thanks Marty for your views. I notice that there are various sources for bushing kits, however these seem to all be the Urethane type. I have yet to see a kit that offers OEM bushings... has anyone else? If a kit does not exist I can see OEM being dearer as all the bushes will have to be purchased separetly.

(more suspension dilemmas for me) Now to the question of bushings: Which should I go for? If I do not intend to street race the car that much, am I better off replacing my bushings with the rubber (stock) type rather then the harder urethane type. I have heard that urethane bushings will stiffen up the ride, which is not what I really want as my town's roads are riddled with holes and hence provide for a bumpy ride as it is. The second part of my question is, I have heard that the urethane bushings need oiling now and again, whereas the stock rubber ones are maintenance free. Is this correct? One last thing that concerns me, as the urethane is a different material then the original rubber bushings then does this mean that original torque settings, as listed in the FSM, will no longer apply when tightening bolts associated with the newly installed urethane bushings. Please help me decide. Thanks.

Just caught this on ebay.... its an FJ20DET CLICK HERE TO VIEW