evildky

we're still a small club but this event gets and bigger and better each year, door prizes from Nissan and Nismo, free food and drink, cash and trophy for each generation, and it's all completely free!

it's not hard, you can get the kit at autozone or any parts dealer, I highly recomend replacing the reciever dryer before converting, about $30-$40 for the Reciever Dryer, and you can not get R12 unless you are licenced to use it, R134a however you can get at any auto parts store no special licence required, I converted my Z31 without issue, and one day I'll get heat and ac back into my 240 but I am considering a mixture of aftermarket and later model OEM parts, and I will be running R134A

for the T-5 all 70-78's require trans crossmember mod, the T-5 mount was further back ( I am thinking on the 71.5-78 it's not as far out), I am not sure about the N/A 5 speed

I saw a 71.5-73 240Z on ebay being sold as a 69 model, but it had the lil Z vents on the c pillar's

when you say ZX I assume you mean 79-83 280ZX? in which case all the clutch components swap over just fine, all 70-83 N/A cars used a 225mm flywheel/clutch, all Turbo and 2+2 models used a 240mm flywheel/clutch, the turbo used a T5 tranny which will require you to modify your trans crossmember and have a custom driveshaft made casue the 280ZXT used a unique output spline, the throwout collar was made a bit longer at some point I am thinking 72 was the first of the longer throwout collars and they stayed the same size through 83

yes but it's a royal pain http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32531

240's were not offered with factory air thinking it was 77 before they started offering them from the factory, there was an early dealer add on air that mounts high, and I have seen a coupla different add on systems so who knows what will bolt on in place of it? the standard L6 A/C compressor mount is on the lower drivers side, on a 280 thats where the smog pump went on your 240 if your smog pump is gone then yes you can bolt the 280 compressor and bracket on, I think it was on the 280zx the switched over to an aluminum compressor mount (still the same but lighter)

I did the same thing to my 240 before I went turbo, but my tach didn't work to begin with so I swapped the tach from a 280 into the 240 housing

280's did not come with LSD you might have gotten a VLSD which was in the 88 300ZX SS, and aslo 240sx's they use different length shafts, there is a stop washer in the middle of the unit that'll keep a standard R200 stub axle from going all the way in on one side and the other side has the circlip grove cut deeper then the standard R200 stub axle will reach, if you can take both out, and shine a light in one side and look in the other side, if you see a washer with a hole in the middle you got a viscous unit

the ecu retards the timing as the rev's increase, there is no vacume advance so it gets full advance at idle and only retards from there, a bud's high compression L28 wouldn't idle with less than 25 digrees advance

I swapped using a 183k junkyard motor and it still runs strong and I autocross it and beat it senceless, but if you perfer to stick with your engine, you really only need the exhaust, turbo(wastegate is internal), downpipe, injectors,you can use the injected intake of your choice, and if your gonna go stand alone you won't need any of the electronic's, as for the oil pump, I think the unit itself puts out a touch more volume, but your gonna want to lockdown your dist, if you choose to use the turbo opticle dist you'll need the turbo oil pump drive shaft as it's different from every other datsun shaft

I can't remember when the change was but there are 2 different lower mounts, one is longer and the other shorter, I am thinking the change was made on the zx

well....after all this fun and games I just bought a complete wrecked 280zxt 2+2 for $350, looks like it'll be turbo and injected no more fun with carbs

well, I swapped in the Hi Po L28 and it still boggs, I swapped the webers on and it still boggs but it boggs differently I can accelerate past the point of bogginf and it still backfires, I think the problem was the cabs glad I swapped motors to find out any how looks to be a phantomg carb isse that doesn't make much sence, just wanted to let yoou know

yesterday I started by warming up and driving till the bogging started, I notice it is accompanied by backfiring through the exhause when I let off the gas, aslo in reving it while parked it did backfire through the intake once I ran rubber hoses from the fuel rail into and out of a 3 gallon gas tank on my car, went for a run no change I swapped the 78 dist and msd box in favor of a zx dist, went for a run still boggs once warmed, ( I did not replace the jacobs coil I am running as I did not have an extra coil but the problem was the same when I had the origional ballasted coil (and the jacobs coil was hardly even warm)) I swapped the SU's in favor of a set of tripple webbers and a cannon intake on loan from a friend ( loads of top end till they warmed up) once warmed up real nice it bogged the same as before ( I really want a set of those now) I then replaced the motor, just finnished installing it tonight, F54 flattop with an N42 mild cam (on load from a frind who's car is in pieces), I put my SU's on it since the webbers behaved in the same maner, I havn't finnished dialing in the carbs and timing yet, I am gonna take it our tomorrow, I'll post my results I am wondering if my head gasket might be blown between 2 cylinders and only leaks under load and at temperature ? sound like a reasonable theory ? I have been looking at that car for so long I can't see streight any more, any more insights ? thoughts on my head gasket theory? I havn't cracked my motor open yet

last fall I drained the tank, all gas came out looking good, I flushed about 2 galons of fresh gas through, plugged it and ran with it, I was gonna put tubing into a gas can tomorrow and see if that does anything, will be bypasing all metal lines and factory fuel tank, but the problem shows up only when it's warmed up so I don't expect that to solve the mystery

yeah was very cheap price, whay I pointed out I got the carbs for $50 and the suspension (coil overs and camberplates and shortened housings with ilumina's in the rear and koni's up front, I am querious what your go for to see how good a deal I got

the holley pump is rated for 5 or 7 psi can't remember, I had to add an adjustable frp to keep gas from coming out the fuel bowl vents the car is an early 71 and the fuel lines are in the trans tunnel, they look fine at both ends it only smokes when I first fire it up, just a bit for the first coupla minutes the carbs looked real clean, one had a clog in the bottom of the fuel bowl, resolved that problem the first time I fired them on the car I am guessing the carbs came from a 2.8, why would someone race a 2.4 in it when they could rave the 2.8? so I am sure that it's rich, but this problem pre dates the carb swap ( which I though might fix the problem) I have sprayed carb cleaner everywhere around the intake and carbs including the throttle shafts, balance tubes, cylinder head, and vac hoses (both of them) I have no dashpots, and the needles are flat faced, so yeah very rich, but it runs fine for the first 10-15 minutes, then nice and heated up if starts bogginf, and yeah I tried with the hood popped, no change I'll try and get a pic tonight, keep the ideas comin, thanks

yeah the fuel pump occoured to me, I now have a holley red pump with an adjustable fpr, no improvement, thanks for trying

it idles great and runs fine till it gets good and warmed up, then the bogging keeps it from reving up but it still idles fine

it does not over heat at all, the guage rises and fluxuated around the half way mark, I tuned the caabs, I have tried lean, rich and everything in between, on both sets, I have checked the float levels, and nothing seems to work

I do have headers now, I also still have the heat shield under the SU's, but the problem dates back to when it had factory intake and exhaust, any other ideas?

I have the exact same air dam, complete with Z doctor badge inside, I got it from a guy parting out an IT car, I paid $20 for mine, and $200 for the suspension from the same car and $50 for the SU's, guess he needed the space

this is my first post to this board so be gentle, I have a 71 240z origional engine, it has had a problem since I got it a year ago, once it gets good and warmed up, it starts bogging down, I can be racing it up to 5k in secong and then it just starts to bog for no reason, I can upshift to third and it'll bog at about 3500, up to forth and it's at like 2k, I have replaced the SU's with a set from an IT Car, I replaced the point dist with a 78 electronic and an aftermarket coil with an MSD 6t, the problem is still there, I have aljusted the valves, swithed to an electronic fuel pump with an adjustable FPR, I am out of stuff to replace, all my plugs look good, just a light coat of light dusty brown evenly all over the surface of the plug, guessing from the msd box, anyone got an idea? I am really needing to get this thing fixed