JetDoc

I installed a new booster and i believe the check valve is in the correct direction but i never did see an arrow!

Hey greyghost I also red the post on the reaction disk but i'm pretty sure mine is in place (i just put on a new booster) i felt the rod when i adjusted it and it dosent flop around it will come out but i can carefully reinsert it into what i believe is the reaction disk. But thanks for the reply!

Ok i'm back after this brake problem! After reading several posts and responses to my questions i'm back on the hunt for a solution! First off i checked the pushrod measurement on the brake booster and found it incorrect (adjusted too short) I corrected that issue! Then i went to the brake lines to make sure there were no obstructions (i changed all the flex hoses) all lines were clear! I again removed and disassembled the prop. valve, it was still clean and appears to be ok (but i really dont know), my last step was the master cylinder... i recieved it with the car and it was supposed to be new, well i removed it dissembled it and found out it wasent so new!! Off to the parts house i went to buy a new one, I bench bled it correctly (this time) reinstalled it, tried my new bleeded but my compressor took a crap so i bled the old way and STILL have no pedal feel with engine running! I'm ready to sell the car!

Hey Daniel thanks for the reply! To answer some of your questions.... I did adjust the rear brakes when i replaced the wheel cylinders and shoes, i checked the brake booster and check valve, the booster was bad so i replaced it, the check valve was good so i replaced both hoses (manifold to check valve and check valve to booster) there seems to be good vacuum and no leaks, I have not adjusted the B.B. rod so i guess thats next! I did however purchase a Matco Quick Draw brake bleeding kit p/n BBK70855 if anyone is intrested it looks like it will work really good, and the kit has an automatic refiller that attaches to the reservoir! I will let everyone know how it works! I apologize if i sounded like a jerk with my spring and ball comment, this thing is just driving me nuts! The car is all stock except for the stereo and tinted windows, it runs awesome i just cant get it to stop!!!

If you read my post a couple days ago, i was looking for a kit to rebuild my proportioning valve, after dissasembling the valve i decided to clean it all up (its alot more than a ball and spring) i found out! The bores looked good so i cleaned up the piston assy. etc. the seals looked pretty good and still soft so i reassembled the valve and reinstalled it in the car. I got in and pumped the brakes a few times and i actually had some good pedal feel until i started the car! Now i have none! I re-bled the master cylinder (i have a question about that later) and re-bled the brakes in the correct order! Still no pedal with the car running. Now to my question.... I'm not sure i'm bleeding the master cylinder correctly, my M/C has 2 bleeder screws i connected a hose to one bleeder at a time the other end of the hose in the reservoir and had my son pump the brakes and got alot of air out! is this the correct way to bench bleed this M/C? I'm really starting to pull my hair out with thing and i dont have much more to loose! The darn car sure looks good sitting in the garage but i would really like to drive it! Thanks!

Ok here i go again working on these darn brakes! After replacing the master cylinder, front calipers, rear wheel cylinders all 4 hoses, and the brake booster i attempted to bleed the brakes AGAIN! i have good flow at all 4 corners, i bench bled the M/C, and bled the rest of the system as called out in the book, i checked the length of the booster rod and it's 10mm as called out for a 1978 280Z.... when i apply the brakes the rears will hold but the fronts will not. I removed and dissasembled the proportioning valve and found it all gunked up, (when removing the valve i only lost fluid from the rear brake lines, no fluid came out of the front lines). Now to my question (finally)! does anyone know of or heard of a kit to rebuild the prop. valve? A replacement from VB is $400.00 ouch!! Sorry to be so long winded but i figure more info is better than no info.!

I'm looking for a brake booster for a 1978 280Z if anyone has one laying around!

I don't know if your still looking for orange Z's, but my 1978 280 is orange and i know for a fact its orginal because i bought it from a friend who bought it new! It has a paint code of 110

Hey all I appreciate the replys, i pulled the master cylinder and checked the rod length and it was dead on @10mm like the book calls out for a 1978, what i have done to get everyone on the same page is: installed new master cylinder, installed rebuilt front calipers l/h and r/h new rear wheel cylinders l/h and r/h and attempted to bleed! just a few minutes ago while i was attempting to bleed the clutch (another problem) i had the r/h front jacked, for the heck of it i had my son pump up the brakes and hold them but the front wheel still spun so i believe i still have alot of bleeding to do to fill the calipers! I hope anyway!! I will get back to u with more details! Thanks again!

Hello Well i finally got back to work on the Z after a 2 week school in Kanasas, right before i left i replaced the brake master cylinder, installed rebuilt front calipers and both rear wheel cylinders but ran out of time! yesterday i tried to bleed the system, i bled the master cylinder then the wheels RR,LR,RF,LF the problem is i have no pedal feel, it goes to the floor with little resistance, i had the rear jacked and the brakes will stop the wheels, i have clean fluid to all four corners and no leaks, someone told me i needed to bleed with the engine running (power brakes) i've never heard of this and was wondering if anyone else has? The brake booster seems to be working just fine! Any help or idea's would be greatly appreciated! Al

Hello everyone! Well i'm finally down to the question part of my quest to get my Z on the road! To refresh.... 1978 280Z 126,000 miles, anyway when i got the car it had not been on the road for 9 years, i bought it from the orginal owner who had a new clutch installed right before he quit driving it. When i got it i installed a new clutch master and slave cylinders as well as flushed the system and installed a new hose, bled the system, adjusted the pedal as called out in the book, everything seemed to be working fine until i went to shift it (difficult to get in gear) when the engine was off but would not go into gear while running, i raised the rear and i believe the clutch if stuck (will not disingauge) anyone got any ideas how to free a stuck clutch without removing it? My pedal feels good and the slave is doing its job so any help would be greatly appreciated! Question #2 is there a rubber plug that goes on the brake pedal to turn off the brake lights? My lights stayed on and i looked at the switch where i noticed a hole in the pedal where something should go! Hope everyone has a great day! Thanks! Al