jjohnson

Hi guys, I currently own a rust free 1971 240z Build No.#692? (RHD) which I bought a week ago with no gearbox or engine in sight. I was just wondering what everyone's thoughts were in putting an RB20DET (nissan inline 6) back into the 240z... I sort of feel bad doing it to such an early build car but considering the engine bay was empty when I bought it, i don't feel so bad.. Thanks for any thoughts, Sean p.s. pics of the rb are in my gallery, will have the 240 loaded up once i get photos of it

any updates on these guages?? thinking of pre-ordering... Do they still need 20??

hey 240zguy, I've recently bought the 7 channel shaved door handle kit with 35lbs solenoids...Once I get them on the 240 i will post for ya

Yeah..I've agreed on a price, now just have to wait until I can transport it, there are a few z's in the way of mine. originality isn't an issue really, I just like the look of the original interior, will go to a local shop and ask them on what to do. I will need to buy a new centre console from VB though as there isn't one and I can't get hold of one either.

I'm pretty keen on this 240 that Ian has. Had a panelbeater friend come and have a look at it, there's no rust, welds have been done and new floorpans welded in. the body is not perfectly straight, but no rust is always a good start I think Ian said something about you being interested in it earlier? Ian's going to throw in most of the interior except door panels and centre console for abit more cash, so I think i'm just going to get it re-upholstered. save me abit of money...

i contacted frank the day he bought the cars and showed my interest in the 240 shell... contacted him several times saying I wanted to buy it and he said he was interested in selling, then tells me people are looking at it on the weekend (2 weeks ago) and that he would email me a couple of days later... hasn't done so who knows what's happening with it I don't

Haha.. yeahh I saw the article.. not a fan of the dash or chromes but yeah, a nice car none the less. Have talked to a few people over there but mostly all are doing the RB25 or 26 as it's U.S. based due to the cost of getting an engine over there. Hey cammo, yeah.. saw it in the paper the other day... I'm pretty keen on doing the RB swap and $5000 for a car that I wouldn't be keeping either engine or gearbox is too much. The car I'm looking at is one of Ian's so I'm hoping he might be able to help me out with the interior aswell.. will have to talk to him about it, Do you know anything about the 240 for $5k?

ahh k... Thanks for the info.. will start searching Yeah. that's the thing, the body looks to have very little rust if any, a small bubble on the passenger door Car had all the rust cut out and welded new in, new floorpans etc. trust me.. Rust is my priority, hard to find a rust free Z for cheap though. The car has no interior, gearbox or engine.. the car has no rust to my knowledge.. will find out soon w/ a panelbeater The reason I'm looking at this is I plan on doing an RB20DET R32 swap into it :devious: so kinda perfect except for the interior situation

Gee, do you happen to have the details for either store? Numbers etc? or do they have websites, thanks ! I think I might end up going with a parts car or something.. take some off a 240 being separated. with the rear strut caps Gee, do the 280zx strut caps fit? as their are a LOT of red zx's.. just a thought.

G'day all, I'm looking at purchasing a 1971 240Z, the problem is it has no interior... all carpets, panels and roofing are not there.. It does have a restored dash though, the seats are original but torn. I live in Perth, WA.. and was wondering if you guys would recommend anywhere to buy basically a whole interior or any other advise for the situation i'm in. Just trying to see what sort of price I would be looking at. Also if anyone has gone with a white interior, considering i'll be buying a whole new one... and if the black dash can be converted Thanks for any advice, Sean

Yeah.. I had a look at the link on autotrader.. Couldnt find any details or contact numbers for it Just said '240Z' as the description...

that silver Z looks pretty dam nice.... cept for the spoiler wish it was about $3k less

that silver Z looks pretty dam nice.... cept for the spoiler wish it was about $3k less

Yeah...well what are you looking for?

do you mean 280z? or zx

Pages 16-18 of the 280z Fuel Injection Book credit Cardinal Zen for the book, Kammy for the post Quote: 'Thermo-Time Switch The thermo-time switch consists of a contact to ground for the cold start valve and a bimetallic strip surrounded by a heater winding. When the engine is cold and the key is turned to "start," the bimetallic strip contacts the ground contact and allows the cold start injector to inject fuel. When the key is turned to "on," that powers the heating element inside the thermo-time switch. As the heater warms the bimetallic strip, it eventually bends away and stops grounding the cold start valve. This all happens in 10 seconds or less. This is to keep the cold start valve from injecting too much fuel and flooding the engine. So if the engine doesn't start within the 10 seconds, the thermo-time switch will shut off the cold start valve to keep the engine from flooding for future starting attempts. When the engine is already hot, the contact in the thermo-time switch is open, preventing the cold start valve from operating. A stuck closed thermo-time switch could allow the cold start valve to operate too long during starting, causing engine flooding (but regardless, the cold start valve will still only operate when the starter is operating). If the thermo-time switch sticks open, it could keep the cold start valve from operating and cause hard cold starting. The thermo-time switch can be tested electrically. The temperature at which the switch activates is stamped on the switch housing. You can install a test lamp in series with the wire to the thermo-time switch, disable the ignition, and crank the starter. The lamp should light but then go out in a few seconds of cranking. The switch can also be tested for resistance between the two terminals. It should vary with temperature, being close to zero when the switch is below the temperature marked on the housing and being infinite when the switch is warm.' ____________________________________________________ Hope that helps...Basically I need a thermotime switch as when cold my car starts rough and hard, but once warmed it idles fine, as if nothing is wrong Thanks. Sean

Hoping to get no less than $4k.

hahah... yeah i didnt go to the last one cos i dont own a 1st gen... yet have checked out the site... it has been down for the last week on my computer, duno whats going on there. yeah.. the 280zx is ready for painting after hours of pain... haha once its painted i'm going to sell it, then look at a 240z/260 2 seater manual...NO RUST haha so many hassles with rust sean

wondering If anyone has a working thermotime switch in perth Sean.

The thermotime switch pins were measured for continuity with the engine hot and cold after cleaning the harness connections and switch. So im pretty sure its the thermotime switch Thanks, Sean

sblake, your right... Problem started from rough idling when cold..thought at first it couldve been a vacuum leak, couldnt figure out the problem and had it checked out... Need a thermo switch, not a cold start valve. might change the original post to thermo switch, Thanks for the heads up Sean.