Mr Camouflage

R200, and yes with some modification.

I didn't check any of them. He recons one of the engines was just rebuilt befor he got it, so that turbo may be alright. But they might not have enought puff for iff you are planning on a L28 conversion. then there's efi computer mods that would need to be done.

Pretty sure. Why wouldnt it? Why's that seem odd?

With the pulsar sr20 being an east-west mounted engine, are the blocks different in regards to enging mounts, or do they have the north south mounting points also? or is it a N-S mounted engine? I'd imagine it would be E-W.

Leeching. Hmm i use that term for file sharing networks, when you just take but dont make any files available for upload. It's not like the images have been copied to this site. and they do acknowledge the source of the file by the stamp on the image. Like when you list your references in a written publication. Its also free advertising for their site. The content is not trying to be passed off as your own, and it saves you bandwidth Mike. Bambi, when the image urls change, remember to delete this thread.

it's 8.3 megs.

I met a guy on the weekend who has a whole bunch of L20ET's. and even more L series heads. All from skylines and laurels. The Heads on the earlier L20ET 's engine were N42's ( i think some might have had e88's also. I was a bit dazzled by the assortment of engines, turbos, diffs, and other bits to be sure)and the later ones had no casting code only the number 05 where the code should be. Does the P90 have P90 cast into the side? or would these be P90's? His collection og heads included an E30, E88's, N42's, and the 05 heads. He eventually gave up trying to get parts and info for the L20ET and put an L28E (NA) into his laurel. So does anyone know about the mystery 05 head?

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html scroll down the page till you get to the part about diffs.

Anyone know anything about this head? The only casting ID i can see on it is "05" where is should say n42 or e88. They were on the late L20ET

The way i look at it is this. I didn't expext to find a rust free 30 year old car. In Australia thats almost impossible, since most of us live near the coast. And you can expect to find a few dents and broken bits too, and you have to expect that you will have to fix them, and that will cost money. I bought one knowing that I would have to strip it back completely to find all the faults and fix them. Would have been nice to drive it around a bit before starting the resto, but i didnt notice the amounts of smoke the car was putting out till after i had bought it. So I stared the resto immediately. I probably paid too much for it, but at least i have one and dont have to keep looking. I've had the fun of pulling it apart, and once i've fixed it an put it back together, will have the satisfaction of knowing that its done right, and that i did it myself. Only problem is it's taking so damn long. Its getting towards summer, and i'm getting impatient. I want to go crusing in my 240z, but its nowhere near finished. When you get your car back on the road and everything is going great, you will fall back in love with it. Dont give up on it yet. Hey Simon, Is that why you had wheel arches welded on? I though you just wanted some extra room under there for those tyres. Didn't realise they were cut out completely.

Not sure if its the same car as another one ive seen, unless the plates are new. Probably is. It sounded like a turbo. I've seen it in east perth out near Tafe also. I didnt like the rear skirt he had on it. Though this was a different car because of the plates, and didnt notice the rear skirt this time, but there were other cars in the way i guess. I also see a light blue 260z 2 seater up near where i live.

RB26 into a 240z? easier to fit than a RB25,20, or 30, due to the intake not going over the valve cover The engine is not as Tall as the others. Just requires changing the sump to the RB25 i believe. (because the RB26 it for the 4wd) SR20ET into a 240sx? Easier as the 180sx is a 240sx which came from the factory with a SR20ET and the engine and car were designed to fit together.

There were several models of GT skyline, some with FJ40's and some with L20's and some with L28's You could bolt the L series turbo onto a 240z block, but the compression would be way to high. You'd need to rebuilt the block with turbo pistons (dished) to lower the compression. Geabox would bolt straight up, but the ratios would be different.

Anybody here own this 240z? I saw it this morning on wellignton street Perth WestAustralia. lic plate was Gordo1. Dark Green.

For the last time they are "Aussie" tail lights not "Euro" Probably more correctly they are Japanese tail lights, which didn't need to be changed for the australian/new zealand and european market. You have funny laws there in the US so you had to get different tail lights.

Ditto. Air flow meter could be out.

I'll let you know how easy it is after I do the same with my 240 and 260z's

Heres a pic of my (RHD passenger) Left side suspesion strut. Its not supposed to be unscrewed like that is it. The other side is done up so you cant see any threads. Would this cause excessive negative camber? The front left had excessive negative camber compared to the right, Also I think the metal washer was missing of the back of the (damn whats that rod thing called that sitcks out from the frame rail to the lower controll arm not the sway bar the other one) bush.

15 = too young. 36 = too old. 24 = just right. :stupid:

Hey, I was right about something.

Another for the list http://www.homestarrunner.com/sbemail.html I recomend the "Dragon" email.

Mine's silver, with red over the top. Its all coming off to be replaced by black. Gav, could you snap a few photos of the chrome rear for me. I want to see shat it looks like as i'm thinking of doing it to mine. Black and Chrome is my colour scheme for this car.

Found this ages ago and saved it. Cant remember where from. Hpoe it helps. How to adjust the door locks on a Z by Jack M. Pull the inner door panel - arm rest, pax. grab handle (for right side - unclip the plastichrome end covers to access the screws), door latch handle escutcheon and stainless metal handle surround, window crank, and door lock button. Pry the door panel from the door, starting at the bottom. Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the upper edge of the door. You should be able to get at the door innards now. (I'm assuming any vapor barrier in there is long gone by now. Remove as required, if it's still there.) There's about a 1/8 inch dia. rod with a threaded end, and a Nylon adjuster that bears against the lock mechanism, toward the back edge of the door. (This is from the handle to the lock/latch mechanism - there's another rod in there too, but it doesn't seem to go out of kilter as much as the longer unit.) Theoretically, there's a metal clip or keeper, to hold the Nylon adjuster where it should be. It may or may not be there. If it is, the lock mechanism can still get out of adjustment, because the lock rod has a mild "Z" bend (what other shape would it be for such a car?) in it, and the bend can become exaggerated with time and usage, in effect shortening the rod and making it more difficult to lock the car. Rebend the rod as required; I'd suggest taking as much of the bend out as possible, and still being able to reinstall the threaded end of the rod back into the latch push plate up inside the door. Adjust the Nylon adjuster as required. You can test this by latching/locking and unlatching/unlocking the door with it open. Just remember you have to flip the latch to the latched position on the door jamb, as though it engaged the striker upon closing the door. If you do this, the door will "think" it's latched, so you can activate the lock mechanism for adjustment. Yes, one can reach all this stuff inside the door without further disassembly, but it ain't easy. Plan on some skinned knuckles from the sheet metal edges in the door. Now is a good time to make sure your window seats properly in the upper door frame, too. If not, loosen the large screws in the window regulator mechanism, and roll the window all the way up. It should be aligned with a uniform gap all the way around the upper frame, when it gets close, and seat evenly at the end of the travel. If not, jiggle it around a bit while maintaining pressure on the crank - it should shift the regulator around as needed. Keep the window rolled up tightly to make sure it's seated where it should be, and tighten the regulator attachment screws. Also while you're at it, make sure the drain holes in the bottom edge of the door are open, and check it out for rust. Use some anti-rust of some sort (tar, whatever - just make sure the drain holes stay open) as needed. Now you can put it all back together, reversing the order described above. It should be all squared away. BTW, if I missed something RE: Your original question (like, maybe you need to replace the lock cylinder) this is how you get to it also. There's a metal clip inside the door skin that holds the lock cylinder in place. Again, all this stuff is a real bear to get at, but it can be had.

Heres a better pic

Those blueprints arn't very accurate. Jason What program are you using for 3D modelling?