Everything posted by Mr Camouflage
- Skyline badges
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Look at the invoice prices in this auction!
Plus the $952 for the slave cylinder. Maybe they just replaced the whole gearbox at the same time
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What I am selling in YAHOO JAPAN
Yeah ebay tried to start up in Japan, but failed to get any share of the market due to yahoo auctions being the market leader in that area in Japan, and just gave up. Kats, if you find any ZG headlight covers let me know
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my motor blew
and he was like way... and i was like no way... and he was like way... Rare? who are you kidding? not in the USA. With a blown engine it ain't worth much at all. Put some leak sealer stuff in the radiator also and you'll be back to trying to smoke up the rear wheels in no time.
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lots of 240K parts if you want them
Yeah. Thats about the size of the section I want cut out of the other car, if he still has it.
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L28 Stroker project
Spotted a L31 stroker for sale over at JNC http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2679
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lots of 240K parts if you want them
So what have you got left? I need a coupe roof lining. How rusty are the rear quarter panels on the 2 door. In particular the lower part between the door and the front of the rear wheel arch (both sides of car). Mine have rusted out and am looking for some that can be cut out and welded on. See photo.
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L28 Stroker project
Whats your budget? Building an L31 stroker is very expensive. Would be more cost effective to do an engine swap for a more powerful engine. If your budget doesn't stretch to engine swaps you wont be able to afford to build an L31 stroker. Maybe converting to an L28ET would be easier to get the sort of power you want, but you never said what power you are aiming for. OzConnections advice is good advice. Forget the Stroker and refresh the L28. Carbies are a good way to keep it simple if you aren't good with electrics and EFI.
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Here is #110
I wasn't commenting on that. I saw the new members post about 260z only being made in 74, and thought here we go again, same old mis-information getting repeated over and over. Maybe I should take a chill pill and not respond to those types of posts anymore. More accurate to say the 260z was only sold in the USA for a limited time (was it 74 and 75?). Other counties had the 260z much later instead of the 280z, but now I'm going off topic and repeating info that's readily available on this site for people willing to look for it. Good luck with the resto Bonzi Lon. I think the statement means its was a recently wrecked 260z and the persons Datsunology knowledge was slightly off. I'd also hazard a guess that the 20,000 miles on the clock had been once around the clock and was actually 120,000 miles.
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anyone have big pics of flattops and roundtops?
Round tops are curved/rounded and flat tops are, well, ... flat.
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Here is #110
Oh no they weren't.... and if you spend a bit of time reading this forum you will find out they were made right up to 1978. The USA isn't the only country in the world you know.
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eBay audacity
Ah. Sean is a member here too. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member.php?u=2972 He even posted about the car here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18874
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lucy1
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eBay audacity
I also have a chassis number cut from the firewall hanging in my garage. Was a 2+2 and too far gone with rust to fix. Even the rust repairs had re-rusted.
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what's color name?
I would guess its paint code 901 aka Light Metallic Gray or Silver Metallic or just 901 Silver.
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240K Wiring Diagrams
Show us some pictures of your K :laugh:
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New clock Mod.
At least it's right twice a day
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Ouch!! Crashed my '72
I thought the Mitsubishi Starion was called the Chrysler Conquest, Dodge Conquest, Mitsubishi Colt Starion, and Plymouth Conquest up in those parts. Might have better luck finding wheels using those names.
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Hesitates when pedal is mashed
Got the right grade of oil in the dashpots?
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Does anyone know?
Yep it does look like one. Pop the dizzy cap off and see if you have points or not.
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restore or wreck this 240z
You also have to take into account that the car is located in Australia and there aren't many 240z's left down under of the 3500 or so that were sold here. You wont really know how rusty is it until you strip that chassis. It does look pretty bad, but rust repair sections are available for most parts of the S30. Put it in the garage and strip the panels and interior and see how bad the rust really is. In the end, it's your car now, so do what you like with it. What year and chassis number is it? Looks like a late 70 or 71 car to me.
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Jim Cook racing California z widebody flares
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restore or wreck this 240z
Well. Anything's restorable. Just looks a HLS30-26 & 27. If you do the work yourself it's a lot cheaper. I'd stick it in a nice dry shed somewhere if you have the room. and decide later. No point wrecking it just yet. Would make a nice retirement/long term project If it is for sale, Dibs on the owners manual handbook folder and contents
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Supercharged Hot Rod 240Z
Bob, from a web developer point of view...I just wonder why you have google adverts on your business website. They will most likely serve up adverts for your competition. Are you the one that recieve the money for them, or is your web host/developer pocketing it? Is the business called "Pro Street Customs" if so why does the banner say "Pro Tour Street Machines" ? Lose the google ads and rebrand the website with the correct company name. And do your really need a separate website to advertise that you also do motorbikes? Thats 2 sets of domain names and possibly hosting costs that could be incorporated into one website. Now show us the 240Z pictures Yes Mike, in teh interweb, this is known as the "keep it original" Z site and "Hybrid Z" is the "modify it' site. Has been as far back as I can remember. You can tell by the lack of RB Z's and V8 Z's on this site, and the general reaction to modified Z's. You may not have planned for it to be like that, but it's just the way things turned out.
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Occasional white smoke, need help!
Could be valve stem seals. They will smoke on deceleration or after idling for a time if they are worn. I also read somewhere that someone had a problem with the brake booster. The engine was sucking in brake fluid through the brake vacuum pipe somehow (or maybe that was the AT that Stephen was talking about. Cant remember, was a long time ago that I read it). Something else to check before tearing the engine apart. Do a compression test.