Mr Camouflage

I think he already sold them to a guy i referred to him.

He's still lying about the 1 owner thing, he's the 3rd owner (1st owner deceased, second owner sold it to this guy on ebay). Always garaged, how would he know. And he still cant spell.

I think he meant loosing economy compared to a RB20 if you built a RB30

Maybe try asking the same question on www.ozdat.com/forum/ in the South Australia section.

EliZZa is talking about 2 stripped bare chassis, the weigth difference between them, not the weight difference between a 240z and a 280Z Mostly what makes the 280Z heaver is all the heavier bits bolted to the shell. (air con, etc). As for differences, you'd want to check that the rear struts are not different. I think there was a change in the rear suspension after the 240z to give the struts more travel, the part of the chassis the struts mount to may have been changed in the later car. But before you do all that, I'd have the 240z chassis looked at by a professional with a car alignment jig/machine, to see if the chassis can be repaired. If its only slightly tweaked it could probably be made straight again.

There were a naps manifolds on ebay.au and ebay.com about 1 or 2 months ago. The one in Aus was listed at $75 and had the fuel rail and injectors, the usa one didnt and was listed at $300. I've been told to use the non egr N42 intake manifold for efi + turbo from someone that has the same setup.

Heres one in a Z.

Interesting. I guess you could take it somewhere to have it given the brushed metal treatment. You'ld have to clear coat it to stop it corroding/tarnishng, since its not aluminium. Maybe you could try brushing it yourself with a wire brush wheel. You could paint it with silver paint. Or you could use it as a template and have some place cut you a new one out of aluminium.

The NAPS (Nissan Anti-Polution System) intake manifold has a twin throtle valve, One main one, and one slightly smaller than the other. The Plenum is larger than the other efi manifolds, and the runners are about the same diameter. NZedder will be able to tell us more, as he has one. I think you have to replace the throttle body with a single valve throttle body for better performance.

I dont see why you would need to remove the fenders. Would probalby be easier to fit the over fenders with the guards on the car. Just tape them in place, or have a friend hold them in place, and drill the holes. Then rivet them on. If the cars not lowered, and you dont have really wide tyres you wont need to cut the guards, but then you dont really need over fenders if you dont have wide wheels.

"Car gets a lot of attention" - Mostly people pointing and laughing. "the reason y i'm selling this car is that I have other z to work" = I'm selling because I cant stand people laughing at me anymore. Bonet vents in the fenders, umm, to keep his brakes cool maybe? Somebody save his other z before he ruins that one too.

Hi Ben. You seem to be misinformed about the RB series. Physically, they are more durable than the L series and cant stand alot more HP being put through them. Also Point 6 is completely wrong from an Australian point of view. We've had RB engines since 1987, so parts for RB engines are cheaper and easier to source than L series parts. Alfa: If you are after horsepower, forget the RB20DE or DET. Sure the turbo can make some power, but you have to increase the boost to get it, but you end up with a laggy engine - not alot of power down low and heaps at high revs. Aslo when you start messing with the boost too much, you have to modify the engine managment computer (piggy back units that modify the signals from the engine sensors), or go with an aftermarket computer, plus spent money on the dyno tuning it. The Rb25DET is a better engine and the extra capacity means it has to work less hard for the same HP that a 2.0 would. Rebuilding an engine will cost $$$ nomater what the engine is. Most of the money spend will be in labour costs. Turbo engines will cost more because of all the extra stuff you have to add to them. As for the L28, it has cubic inches going for it. Raise the compression a little, and have the head ported and polished, extractors. Use EFI for reliability and economy. I'd go for the L28, and spend the money you would have spent on fabricating engine mounts, intercoolers, and all the other costs involved (eg engineers inspections) , on the engine itself. It's period correct, wont require engineering to be legal. Wont be as economical as a 2.0 naturally asprited engine, but will be alot more fun. Another alternative would be the RB30E (VL commodore, Australian built R31 skyline). It may have to be engineered, but the 3 litre capacity and the fact that you can bolt one an RB25 twin cam head for improved breathing, and the availability of engines and parts (relatively cheaply) mean that its an engine to be considered. Builting an RB30DE would be easier and probablyt cheaper than building an L28 3.1 stroker. Or you could built an RB30DET, but i'm guessing that a bit out of your budget.

Try using DVD shrink. It will "Backup" your DVD and re-encode it that it can be burned to a regular DVD, as a region free dvd. then you can play it in your dvd player.

Yeah I like the gtr grill better, then the standard 240k grill. This is his z here isnt it. I didnt think it was supercharged, or efi, just triple carbies?

Whats the "belt buckle" grill look like? Someone post a pic. Tom, was that Dino's (spelling?) car. The 4 door that he's wrecking. Did you have a look at his coupe?

is the vacuum advance working?

Brian!!!!!

Shades of Déjà Vu here. Maybe a faked death notice , and some laying low for a year or 2, à la zmefly.

Hi George. They come up pretty often on ebay. There's 3 on there at the moment, or was just recently. (Theres either none for a long time, then usually more that one at the same time). check out http://www.wazcars.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=110&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60 for a bit of a history of z cars on ebay (au only) over the last year or so (with photos and final prices).

If you are shipping overseas you should always get insurance where possible. Make it part of the shipping fee. Also shipping will take up to 3 months via sea mail, plus the time it takes to clear customs. Looks like bluefairladyZ was a bit premature with his negative feedback. Is it possible to track down the package via australia post and find out where it is? My girfriend sent something to France recently. It then sat a a post office for 2 weeks, because they forgot to deliver it, or send a card to the person to tell them to come in and collect it. So after 2 weeks its was sent back to customs and presumably destroyed. Same thing happpend to me. I had somethins sent to me from the USA. It never arrived, so i went looking for it. It was at the local post office having never been delivered, they never notified me to pick it up either. As a Seller, I should not be responsible for the postal service's incompetance. and as a buyer i hate it when you pay for something that never arrives, which has happend to me too, but it was only worth $25 so I didnt get to upset about it.

Your previous posts about your revolutionary engine modifications were based on ATDC, was that a complete failure?

Theres a couple of them on ebay.com.au at the moment. also try the sydney z car club http://www.zcarclub.com.au/

That is so ugly it makes the urge look good. This is a good link for Nissan concept cars (and production) throughout the ages. http://www.nissannews.com/multimedia/nd_50_anni.shtml

Not my site, its TexasZ's site. Works for me. Its not a link to the pdf itself, but a link to a folder on his site which contains the article. I didnt link directly to the pdf, because I hate it when pdf's start loading in your browser. At least this way you have the option to load in browser or "save as" Lots of great stuff there. Including the whole Wangan Midnight movie. (no subtitles though )

I'm very hesitant at resurecting this thread. Better to let sleeping dogs lie me thinks, but..... .....there is a particular magazine article that details what was done to the BRE 240Z to turn it from the description given by John Morton (quoted by Brian way back on post #1), to a racing car. You can find it here (thanks TexasZ) http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Magazine Articles/Datsun 240Z Goes Racing/ It's from Road & Track October 1970, and really puts into perspective what had to be done to turn the car into a competetive race car.