Mr Camouflage

Just watching the new tonight and saw in the last shot of a news report a picture of the front of a smashed up 260z (could have been a 240, but it had the side indicators of a 260). Was dark metallic blue by the looks of it. In Melbourne. Dont know if it was the car being chased by the police, or it it was one of the parked cars.

I was doing some googleing the other day and found a Prince Skyline for sale in Australia. Heres the ad: 1966 Prince Skyline GTB - Mandarin with bone trim, original car with 2 litre 127hp OHC 6, triple Webers, air box, 5 speed box, LSD, wood wheel, full instruments, 99 litre tank, a factory race car in very original, untampered condition, needs paint/body, only 30 of these left, very sought after car, only sell to a good home, bargain hunters need not apply. Anybody Interested?

Driven lots of wallowing pigs?

Try putting an ad on ozdat.com and on the ozdat forum and also www.thezgarage.com (aussie z site) too, if you havent already.

yeah it normal, no you dont need to replace it, just take it out and service it. search the forums for instructions how to do this.

Looks like you got some competition on the bidding Alfa.

I hear if you dont use one you will destroy your big end bearings and have to rebuild the engine. If you didnt really need one, it wouldn't be there in the first place. Nissan would have left it out to save money. So make sure you put it in. I'd rather spend $$ on a bearing now, rather that spend $$$$ rebuilding an engine later. Put the auto in the sedan, then stick the whole car in the garage, or shed for spares or a future project. When you have time and money and dont want to drive the GT-R rep daily. $500 for the car isnt too much in the long run. But trying to find K parts or a whole car in the future could be difficult. Like this maybe

What? are you blind? or just not looking. Theres been a 240K sedan for sale in WA for at least a month. Started at $1000 or $1200, now its down to $800. I'd buy it myself if I had somewhere to keep it. He'd probaly take $600 for it so he doesnt have to pay the next rego. Lachlan. Just dont mention your plans for the car to the guy. He wants it to go to a good home, not to someone thats going to pull it apart. Take your 'GT-R' up there and tel him you want to restore it just like that one. Offer him $500 cash on the spot (ie have $500 with you and write a reciept and get him to sign it), to sell it to you and cancel the ebay auction. Damn, I want that $620 Datsun 1000 coupe from Adelaide thats on ebay, but then no where to keep it, transport costs, too many projects at the moment, etc etc.

Hey Kent, your website isn't working.

What ever you do, dont do this, if you intend on keeping the car. It will rust away under the bondo, and you will never know untill the paint starts bubbling and flaking off. I'm in the process of stripping a car that this was done to, maybe a 2 to 5 years ago bu a PO, and there is signs of rust starting to form on the metal surface under the places that were skim coated (mostly the roof). The bondo absorbs moisture out of the atmosphere, and you dont want a damp bondo layer ontop of the metal. Plus it adds unnecessary weight to the car I never apply bondo to bare metal, and I only use it where its needed. eg. to smooth a dent that has been knocked out to as close to the original profile as possible. If you want to get a good smooth finish, use spay putty which is like thick high build primer, then block it back till its only left in the low spots. This is what i'm doing: Strip to bare metal etch prime. primer, minimal bondo where required (not the really porous soft stuff, that absorbs moisture) spayputty, block it back till smooth (repeat prime/spray/sand putty where required) final primer coat paint. Body shops only skim coat because they are lazy, cheap and want to make a quick buck for little effort.

Easy, You post questions (new thread link), people answer them (post reply link). If you need to know more try the help section. http://www.classiczcars.com/modules.php?s=&mop=modload&file=index&name=FAQ

Hey Alfa, Your car looks awesome!!!!!

And replace it with a spigot bearing, or you'll destroy your engine.

My First car was a 1972 240z. Got it in my last year of highschool, from a wreckers. Spent time stripping it to bare metal, welding up the rust, and repained it, fixed the interior and got it registered. All while I should have been studying. Also had a Falcon xy wagon and then a '77 Celica (mustang style) liftback, while I was working on the 240z, and after it was finished. Insurance on the Z was a killer, so I didnt drive it much, and left it registered but un-insured, untill a few years later when I started driving it (insurace got cheaper as I got older), and took the Celica off the road and repainted it, and sold it. Sold the Z a few years later, had a string of other cars, VK Berlina, 808 coupe (bought for $15), VH Commodore, TX-3 4wd turbo, VH commodore wagon, honda accord. Then the Z bug got me again, so I had to get another 240Z. My first z:

A coupe is generally a 2 door car. So all zeds are coupes, even the 2+2's.

Nope. Completely wrong. Datsun only fitted those ugly bumpers to meet US Law. The US government made them do it. All other countrys got the nice bumpers. Same with the RA28 celicas, even 80's lambo contaches, You dont actuallly think the italians designed them with such ugly square bumpers do you?

They dont look right to me. Have to see more photos to be convinced. "Torana style bolt on fiberglass fender flares for 240/260Z" That would be reason enough for me not to buy them. Datsun made them long before holden ripped them off and put them on the torana. A Z shop that cant even get their history right.

On ebay UK http://cgi.ebay.com.au/74-Datsun-240K-GT-Skyline-C110-Nissan-like4dr-240Z-260Z_W0QQitemZ4566988180QQcategoryZ18301QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Should i worry about vapor lock? Not untill it happens to you. It may never be a problem for you.

The guy is a retard. Oh, and the grilled chees sanswich was half eaten, and it was bought by GoldenPalace.com as a publicity stunt.

They were all pretty much ordered by number. The reason a car would get out of order is if it was delayed on the production line due to quality controll, wich would make a car older, not younger. There are no 1969 complianced right hand drive 240z in Australia. The earliest is car number 00004, which arrived in Australia in April 1970. Which was presumably the first shipment of 240z's to arrive Australia. I have no doubt that you have a series 1 240z, but series 1's were made up to some time in 1971 when they revised the 240z with some minor cosmetic changes, and to correct the design flaw with the placment of the Diff. The earliest 71 I know of is number 00280. Import numbers for Australia are: 1969 0 1970 319 1971 894 1972 362 1973 783 1974 442 + 599 2+2's 1975 198 + 742 2+2's 1976 385 + 1615 2+2's 1977 98 1978 0 These numbers are from a Nissan Publication. If you search the forums for VIN numbers australia, you will find lost more discussion on the topic.

Theres an injector per cylinder though, right? So 5 times out of 6 the injector is squirting into a closed valve? I dont know much about EFI, and nothing about the 280z efi, but it seems a bit inefficient to me. Or am i missing something?

Hi Tyronne Your cars a late 70, early 1971 series 1. Not a 69/70. Definately would have been complianced in 1971 according to the Register of Right hand drive 240Z. Whats the year on the compliance plate? If it was a HLS30-00325 it would be earlier, but the numbering/years are different for the right hand drive cars. Its a common mis-underestanding. How much are you asking and whats up with the engine?

What do you mean "Batch Fired" Seems to imply, to me at least, that you mean they all "fire" at the same time. Surely they are sequentially fired according to which cylinder is on the intake stroke?