Mr Camouflage

Just because you've seen them on a road registered car doenst make them legal. Just means the cops haven't been bothered to pull them over and sticker the car. If you want to know if they are legal ask your local inspection center. State laws vary.

If you dont want people to save the images to thier computer, why dont you just make it so the images cant be downloaded, only viewed. That will stop most people from being able to save them to thier computer. Only people with a better knowldegde of browsers and Html will be able to breake the coding and download the pictures. 90% of people wont know how to do this and will only be able to view them. Images can be resized and watermarked by a script on the server. I'm not saying it ok to rip of pictures and use them on any site. Just because they are on a website doesnt mean the owner has consented to have them there in the first place, someone might have copied them from somewhere else and put them up, maybe even the owner of the website. So the point i was making is that you cant assume the website has copyright over the images just becaust they are on the site. The copyright should say that the images belong to the members that uploaded them and that any unauthorised use of them is prohibited.

What solinoids, where? If they are soilinoids then presumably they turn the vacume on and off ocassionally. otherwise they would just be on all the time if you replaced them with t pipes.

Coung has put power steering in his 240z. Maybe PM him and see what he did, or search for his posts about strrting. I think he used a subaru powersteering rack.

I think he means he has a 240sx and a silvia front cut. Presumably to get rid of the 2.4 and put in the SR20DET. I dont see why you would want the silvia coupe front end on the SX hatch. I think it looks silly.

Most copyright laws will state that the owner of the copyright of the photo belongs to the photographer. Alan who ownes the rights to your photos, you or Mike? Just because they uploaded them to a website (this one or any other one) doesn't transfer the ownership of the photo to the website. Think about it. This website doesnt own the copyright to the photos I have taken of my car. Nor would the other site, unless the photographer was employed to take photos of the cars on behalf of the website. The owner(s) of the photographs by uploading them and making them available for all to see, view and download, presumably doesnt mind other people doing this or they wouldnt have uploaded them in the first place.

Hayden, did you try Coventry's? I got a 260, but its outside and it almost 11 at night.

You checked the fuses? Does pressing the keytag remore do anything? indicators flash or whatever. It might need a new battery in the keytag to disarm the immobiliser. The dash lights may not work untill the imobiliser is disarmed.

Thanks guys. Anyone used those G machine camber adjustment bushes that VB sell? whats to stop them rotating and putting the camber out from what you set it at?

Where do i get new suspension bushes in Australia fro my 240Z. I want the synthetic ones not the stock rubber ones. Sway bars. I got a 260z 2+2. My rear 240z sway bar is missing, so i was going to put the 260z bar on it. Anyone forsee any problems with this. Should i use any of the other 260z parts on the 240?

Check out this site: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/4.16/00000001/catalog/c38.html http://stores.ebay.com/showcarsbodyparts/plistings/list/all/dept6/?col=4&dir=1

F54, thats a L28 right? You wont get anywhere near 10:1 compression with dished pistons. I recon (well, the L6 engine builder calculator recons) you have closer to 8.28:1 with that combination. putting flat top pistons will boost it to 9.8:1 1mm head gasket or overbore .040 (with standard gasket) will put the compression just over 10:1 Of course that's based on the L6 engine builder, which might not be entirely accurate, or could be very accurate. I wouldn't know.

If you have to ask, then maybe you dont belong here. Looks like the Z bug hasnt gotten around to biting you yet. Whats the big deal with corvettes? Why does someone like some songs that you hate? I guess its just personal. I think the are one of the best looking cars made in the 1970's and they still look good. Look around at cars that were made in 1970. How many of them had IRS? Not many and they cost twice the price of a Z. And with a little tweaking the Z could beat them. Most other cars were live axle, with pushrod driven valve engines, and antiquated suspension systems. Restore it, modify it, race it. It doesn't matter as long as you enjoy it.

Headlight are weak, thats normal. Might have a faulty temp sender. Might want to check the voltage regulator as well.

Guess that means no? Fixed the too much petrol problem? If the engine is flooded with petrol and the spark plus are wet, the car wont start. Pull the plugs and leave them out overnight to let the petrol evaporate from the bores and the plugs. Of course the engine will flood again if you havent sorted out the cuase of it flooding in the first place. Plugs should be dry. clean them and reset the gaps while you have them out.

Your tacho is in MPH? :stupid: My tacho is in RPM I've just swapped my 240 speedo for a 260 one for my 240z. Its easy to do. Just take them both apart and replace the internal mechanism of the 240z speedo with the 260z one and put the 240 case back together. That way the 240z case goes back in the dash with the original mounting screws.The 260z case mounts differently. And the really cool thing is that the speedo goes all the way up to 240.

Any further updates on the P90 on a L24?

Well it wasnt missing, just had slipped down a bit. I pushed it back up. Might wrap some eletrical tape around it to stop it comming down again.

I had a problem with my turn signals. It turned out to be a worn assembly/switch on the end of the indicator stick. I would only indicate right if i pushed it really hard. So i pulled it out the whole assembly, loosend up the screws that held the switch on the end of the stick and repositioned it. Now no left or right. What had happened was the plastic bush type thing that switches the switch has worn out, so that when you push the lever it rocks a bit and doesn't fully push the switch. (i think the switch wears internally also, and that combined with the lever not pushing the switch far enough up or down means no indicators). So i wedged a thin piece of plastic between the metal part that holds the lever, and the plastic bush thing. This takes up the extra play in the assembly that makes up for the worn part. Now it works fine. You should also adjust the switch position by loosening the screws that hold it in plase and repositiononing it so that you get both left and right contact happening.

Ok now i gotta go and dig out the photo of the white 1200 coupe with the rotary and ZG Flares!! Stay tuned.....

Theres a write up somewhere on how to adjust the linkage to avoid this. The geometry of the linkages is such that it take a lot of force to get it moving from the idle, rest position so you jet that sudden jump in revs. I'll have a look for it tonight.

Why dont you post a pic of a 1972 Sunny for period accuracy.