Mr Camouflage

UK cars didn't have the indicators/sidelight under the bumper. the pannel simpley didn't have the hole in it. instead they has rectangular lights hung off the bumperbar, or sitting on top of the bumperbar. This was due to local design laws, probably because of the limited visibility of the normal indicators from certain angles. Aussie cars didn't have the side indicators either. or the side markers on the rear side pannels of the car. as they weren't required by our local laws.

Not my car Ziel motorsports? 240z on a hoist. http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_free/ Mr C

Here's a pic of a 240z with a rear sway bar.

Rev the engine up to 3 or 4000 rpm (so it in the boost range) to get the turbo spinning, then drop it into drive. Just don't do it too often or you'll break something.

Curse you yankies, you get all the z cars. America, land of the plenty. Australia, land of the rare and rusty. A car like that would cost at least $2000. Anybody wanna buy it, stuff it in a shipping container and send it to me down under is welcome to. If I had any cash I'd be buying this car:was $2225 last time I looked Aussies, check this car out, but be quick auction closing real soon 240z with rb20et. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1758826038 Mr C.

Rick, Just dont call him an expert, eh Alan and whatever you do don't mention Goertz :tapemouth Hey Alan whats the story with your car? I seem to recall you got it from Japan? There should be a members car section where you can read all about members cars, well maybe just the interesting ones like yours. Graeme, where'd you get your gnose from? Make sure you post your findings regarding the "Overfenders" for the benefit of us other aussies, that may be looking for parts in the near future. Wouldn't it be cheaper to import from Japan than from the US? Since they are closer to us. Whats the Yen worth these days? Maybe I should go into business making FG pannels for Zeds. Mr C

I found that the easiest way to remove the roof gutter chrome trim (above the doors) was to start at the back end, and pull the bottom/underneath edge outwards, and slightly twist the moulding untill the end pops off the car, then gently lift it upwards to remove it from the car along the cuvred part ot the roof line. when you get to the straight part it should pop off all at once as you pull the back end outwards. See my crude ascii diagram. Do the reverse to get it back on. _ roof / | | <- gutter trim gutter-> __| | ___| ^ / pull------> / If you dont want chrome around the front and rear windows, you can probably get new window seals that dont have the channel there that the chrome sits in, for a smoother look. There is also a product called Colorchrome which is a tranluscent paint that bonds to chrome thats give a finish like anodised aluminium, but shiney (and not just red or blue). So you could have chrome thats tinted the same colour as your car. Dont know if they make black though. there was a website: http://www.ppc.au.com/category110_1.htm probably better websites if you go looking for them. As for the window and door frames they unbolt. I think the gutter trim and door window frames aren't chrome, but stainless steel?? Am I right or has it been too long since I owned a Zed? Mr C

Yeah is an import. WA's been importing jap cars since the mid 80's when a loophole in the law was dicovered (aparrenly or something) and car dealers imported huge amounts of RX7's toyotas, nissans and hondas. My mum has a toyota corona coupe (80 something) the interior looks exactly the same as the MA61 supra and celica. I remember going to the car yard when she was looking at it. I was trying to pursuade her to buy the manual R30 Skyline coupe that was there, but she wanted an auto, Do'H. I think my mate is paying around $700 a year to insure his JZA70, but I could be wrong, I'll check with him and see. the JZA70 and the MA70 share a lot of parts, and the parts you cant get here you can still get from japan. Were going out to a motor sport day this sunday to see how the TT supra performes with its new 3 inch exhast. Gonna get some video. Where was a "Phatt" (that was the lic plate) black 300zx TT there last time, what a car. If its anything like that last MC day I went to it should be interesting. Mr C

Yep, My bad. I never noticed the arm rest thingo. Apologies to HS30-S. I've read a lot of your posts and you seem really knowlegable. Knowing obsure facts like jap zg's have orange front indicators (even though i've seen a few with clear lenses). Some people just cant take a compliment! :classic: P.S. Shouldn't you keep both hands on the wheel? who needs an arm rest.

18 Grand! My mates JZA70 1JZ- GTE supra (Twin Turbo supra - the same model car that the engine came from) only cost him $13000 and its in only got 97 000kms on the clock when he bought it at the beginning of this year. Basically what your paying for in this 240z is machineshop and labour costs. Most buyers that pay over 10 grand (AUD) want a car in 100% original condition (some people mistakenly believe that a car can be an investment). I love 240z's but for 18 grand? I could almost get a twin turbo 300zx for that. Why not just buy a 1JZ, sure they are a bit heavy, but at least you'd get the 1JZ twin turbo engine, plus you'd get climate controll air conditioning, powersteering, electric windows, mirrors, sunroof, digital dash, leather seats, lsd, etc etc. parts available from the factory, lower insurance costs and a chassis that was designed to handle the amount of power the engine puts out. Getting back to what this tread is supposed to be about. My 240z cost (AUD)$2500 when I bought it in 1987. and I sold it for $3800 i think.

Hey HS30-H, I though you knew everything there was to know about 240z's but your comment about the centre console being non stock? are you saying automatic 240z were a dealer option? That console is on many photos I've seen of early american (with the same steering wheel) 240z both automatic and manual (of course the manuals had a vinyl boot) the flip up part is the ashtray, and infont of it (toward the dash) is the cigarette lighter/ fuse box cover. My Zed had the later style console with the switches and the ashtray and cigatette lighter relocated (cigie lighter in the dash, ashtray next to the handbrake. Holes in the steering wheel). Steve-o the car looks in very good condition, and if its been sitting in a garage for 18 years why shouldn't it. I expect you could get a pretty good price for it. It looks all original. It's an it's an auto, which i guess is pretty rare, but I suspect most 240z drivers like to change gears themselves. It's a pity you have to sell it.

These wheels look good. and they are original Z mags I belive from a 280, Auxillary would be able to tell you more, it's his car.

Hmmm, I credit Derk with a bit more intelligence, than to confuse red primer with rust.

Dont feel bad about it taking up space, in your parent garage. My my mum and dads cars had time share the spare bay in their double garage, while my 240z occupied the other bay for about a year and a half, then my celica did for a while also while I repained it. Then my mazda 808 coupe. Other options could be putting a car sized shed in you back yard to house the z while you fix her up, if you have a big enough yard. All cars rust, there is practically nothing you can do to prevent it (unless you want to keep it in an environmet that has no oxygen), it's the natural state of steel. They dig the rusty ore out of the ground melt it down into shiny chunks and make cars out of it. I've stripped pannels with no signs of rust with paint stripper to find the spidery beginnings of rust under the paint. a little rust after 8 years aint bad. If you're gonna sell your dissassembled 240, what part of Oz are you in? there's a few guys here in perth looking for one, perhaps not in the condition yours is in, but I'm up for a good jigsaw puzzle. If I had the choice I'd stick with the zed you've got. Hows that saying go? "Better the zed you know"

Ah ok, so what if you only jack up one wheel and leave the other on the ground so it remains stationary. then when you rotate the wheel the only other thing that can move is the input flange, so you could then work out the ratio. I'm sure that would work, wouldn't it?

You dont wanna go putting those ugly wheel on such a nice looking Z.

P.S. Remove them from the car before atacking them with a sanding disc. They are easy to remove. Invest in a workshop manual.

That louver looks like something out of a Mad Max movie! Take it off, chuck it in you garage, but hang onto just in case. The surface rust on the rear light/Licence surrounds would be easy to fix. Just requires a little elbo grease. A sanding disc would would make short work of it, theen just repaint it.

Na, they are stock indicators with a strip of black tape across them. If it didn't have headlight covers it woudl have an x taped across the headlights (like the r32 skyline behind it), but looks like they taped a stripe on the covers instead to follow the bend in the light cover. Why tape? race track rules I suppose. stop bits falling off when you have to 'pursuade' a slower driver to get out of your way.

If you bend style one, you throw out the whole wheel I assume they are all alloy. If you bend the rim of style 2, being steel (I assume) you can ge it repaired easily, or failing that replace the damaged part as they are modular, and if you are using them for racing option 2 is probably the better option.

astalavista.com search engine or www.astalavista.box.sk :bandit:

Mperdue's right. an amp that thas speaker level line inputs is what you need. If the amps got a remote on power feed (like my alpine has) all you have to do is connect that to a switched accessory the goes off when the ignition is turned off. usually the radio or cigarette lighter, so when you turn the key to off the amp switches itself off. This isn't power for the amp, its just a signal so the amp knows to be on or off.

Damn, I knew it was a silvia as soon as I saw the CSP311 in the top right of the VIN plate, which is the model number. Didn't think many of them existed any more. Nissan only made around 550 of them which makes it a vary rare car about as rare as a Z432 or toyota 2000gt (probably valuable too). It's a right hand drive isn't it. what year is it? any way to tell I cant make out the chassis number on the tag, SP311 70 what? the number after the 7 will tell you which number car it was, then you can approimatley tell when it was made based on the production numbers.

In general: Water flows from the bottom hose through the engine and back to the radiator through the top hose. The actuator of the thermostat should point to the engine side of the housing because that side would heat up faster when the 'stat is closed and when the water in the engine gets hot you want it to open. get a pot, put some water in it and put it on the stove. hang the thermostat in it from a bit of wire and heat the water to see of you thermostat is working. Is should start to open at ___? degrees (someone with an enging manual fill in the blank). and be fully open at __? degrees. If the waters boiling and it hasn't opened its faulty. The radiator cap shouldn't affect the thermostat. You dont have electric fans do you?

The config file is in japanese but I worked out that: The up arrow is to change down gears (go figure??) the down arrows is to change up gears. x = accelerator z = brake c = hand brake a = change camera viewpoint (driver view(if you were laying on the bonnet) and 2 behind car views) s = rear view d = (who knows, it does something because its in the config, but i was pressing it and it didn't appear to do anything) now you know what the keys are you can go into the config and remap them to whatever you prefer. And it Has 240z!! Go quick race, choose a silva, and one of the car you'll be racing against is a 240z. I just drove around behind it looking at it, till it lapped me and side swiped me as it went past! Graphics arn't as good as something like NFS porsche or gt3, but who cares its got Z's! Mr C