Mr Camouflage

I agree. A trained eye would be difficult to fool, though I can think of ways to recreate original looking numbers that I wont go into. Most buyers though, especially 1st time buyers wouldn't know any different. There was a guy down under that has his (fake) chassis number stamped onto the top of the strut tower! Should they sell them, shouldn't they sell them? The negatives of this have been discussed before when those vin number plates were for sale on ebay from the guy in France. Similar issue. You can use them good or for evil. The criminals probably already have underground sources for fake plates, now restores have access to reproduction plates too.

Which can also be faked.

This is the best photo I could find of mine.

The cover looks like this one. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:R31_rb20e.jpg

There is no L30 skyline motor. The Skyline motor you are referring to is an RB30. No, the RB30 valve cover wont fit on an L series head.

Ebay link : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110306170567

Neither of the links in the first post are working Heres a direct link to the article on Bring a trailer http://bringatrailer.com/2008/11/07/long-lost-racer-1963-pontiac-lemans-super-duty/

15.62% better at delivering tofu maybe.

Could wire it into the kick down switch so you don't need to mash your foot all the way to the floor to make the car drop a gear

Sounds electrical, if you are getting fuel to the injectors, but they aren't pulsing. Download the 280Z EFI pdf and have a read. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Didn't think there was 2 different font sizes for that cover.

Replace the front end with 240Z bumpers and lower valance panels.

I like it more than the 350Z. Some knit-picking: Those rear quarter windows are virtually useless. Needs to be less black frame and more window area to see out of. Vertical Door handles again Horizontal handles would have been more Z-ish. Still undecided about the fish-hook headlights.

Here's a useful link about buffing and polishing: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/Buffbook.pdf

Wipe it down with wax/polish remover then block back (wet sand) the current paint, and undercoat it and see how it looks. Spray putty is good for fixing the rough patches. Work on getting it as perfect as you can in undercoat before attempting to spray the color coat. If you are going all out for a top quality repaint, take it back to bare metal to find all the nasty surprises that might be lurking under the current paint job. Though if you do that you'll have to re-fix all the problems again. eg. if there's a bog filled dent under the paint, you'll have to re-fill it again. The key to a good paint job is 99% preparation

All of the above, and then some. As for fees: you pay a fee when you list, you pay a fee when it sells, they you pay another fee when they pay with paypal (an ebay owned company). Thats 3 fees to sell one item. If its a foreign currency transaction the exchange rates are always skewed in the favour of paypal, and when you want to transfer the money from paypal to your bank account, some transfers are hit with a fee also. Ebay tried to make it so that the only payment method in Australia was paypal and other methods of payment (eg direct bank transfer) were not allowed. They sent out a message informing their customers that this would happen, then had to retract the statement and not proceed, since doing so was a violation of Australian law. So now they force us to offer paypal as a payment method, but we are still allowed to accept payment methods that don't have any fees involved. I've been using a local alternative when I need to, called www.oztion.com.au because its free to list, and you only pay a fee when it sells. (there's a 1 cent relisting fee, but you can avoid that if you really want to by creating a new listing for the item, instead of clicking the relist button). You aren't forced to accept paypal as a payment method.

Yeah thats what I thought you meant, but down under our 240z never had them. That was a 260Z thing, for us at least. Our 240z's dump any extra fuel straight onto the road behind the right rear wheel.

What vent box?

Are you sure that ratio is right?. Was the other wheel chocked so it doesn't move?

Whats the earliest GL badge look like? I've only ever seen the rectangular GL badges, which doesn't appear to be what's on the car in the background. Could be a European Datsun 240K GT. It wouldn't be the first time Nissan have sent out photos of a Foreign market car to the Aussie press.

Ah, so thats what snow looks like, eh? None of that down under either. Welcome to the club.

Coupes started first. Sedans weren't started untill later, or so I've been told, I zoomed in. You cant read them, but the shape of the badge is the GT shape (like a shield). GL badges were square-ish. And by counting the white blobs across the back,there are 6 = DATSUN. There would have to be 7 for SKYLINE.

I believe September 1972 is when production started of the 240K. Nissan states on their website: "The C110 Skyline became a great hit with the catchphrase "Ken & Mary" at its debut in September 1972." The car in the article picture has GL badges on the front, and GL tail lights. Though the car in the background appears to have Datsun GT badges on the side quarter.

Pull it out for fresh air.

Whats going on with this one is JMT240KG's mate Jim bought it and he'll be selling it back to JMT240KGTR. You could pm JMT240KGTR incase he decides he doesn't want it, but that sounds unlikely.