Mr Camouflage

There shouldn't be, unless somebody had been doing something dodgey,and illegal. But there would have been an S30-00016 (without the 'H' ) in Japan.

Lets add car numbers into the mix, not just dates. See if we can find a switchover number. Car number HS30-00803 Has fender mounted Bullet style mirrors as standard. Pics at http://www.wazcars.com/index.php?action=classifieds&id=2 (its also for sale)

I'd guess the 4 door flares were probalby different, and that they dont have molds for them. I guess the 2 door ones could be modified to fit.

Definetly repairable. Dunno how it works in NZ, but in Aus there are 2 types of a writeoff (well in WA at least, not sure about other states). Basically there is a financial write-off - meaning it will cost more to fix than the car is insured for (usually if its going to cost more than 80% of what the car is insured for, they will write it off). That's the type of write off you want if they aren going to fix it, because you can take the payout, minus the salvage cost of the vechile, which measn you get to keep the car also. They you get it repaired privately. The other type of write off, puts it on the list of cars that can never be re-licenced, never put back on the road, - Thats the kind you dont want.

yeah that link died this link works: http://sgt76.s5.com/

Go with something more JDM. Kent, have you already decided on a colour? because blue dont look too bad. http://sgt76.s5.com/kpgc110/coupe/blue2/1/1.HTM This ones supposed to be green, but looks dark grey on my monitor. http://sgt76.s5.com/kpgc110/coupe/green1/1/1.htm

Ditto. I'd be interested too.

Headlight is best removed from under the wheel arch. You dont need to remove the front light scoop thing (the painted panel part), just the assembly that holds the headlight. Might be something as simple as a bad earth on the electrical connections

Tom had a carbie for sale. Well done Bruce. I wonder if you could rent a truck capable of carying all 3 cars back, It would save you time and mucking about pulling the bits apart. I would love a rolling shell to transplant my sedan parts into, but the cost to transport it to WA, well, it aint gonna happen. Your yellow K looks good, Whats the story with the Blue one? Thought I'd ad a pic of whats in my shed at the moment.

Hey they dont look too bad at all.

If you like your Z factory original, Stop reading now. move along, nothing to see here. Right, for you that dont mind a modified Z, Heres a Guy in Västerås, Sweden (no its not Mull the oher swedish guy) thats customising a 240Z the way that old american cars are customised. It has a chevy V8, and now hes working on the body. He's chopped the roof (as in lowered the roof line), and is contemplating raising the floor to lower the car. Its not finished yet, but you can see the progress pics at: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/645045/1 Interesting work. would like to see it when its finished.

That nissan design deparnment should learn to controll their urges. Is that the same design department that was responsible for the nissan toad (AKA 350Z)? Anybody got links to the skyline GTR coupe concept?

Alfas got an aversion to white lettering on tyres. It's very seventies though isnt it? whitle lettering that is. Speaking of bringing old cars into the present. Have you seen the Mustang they built for the 3rd Fast and the Furious movie. I think its a 67 fastback, like Steve McQueen drove in Bullitt, or Johnny Depp drove in 21 Jump street. Now this is the bit thats got all the red-necks panties in a bunch, it is powered by a Nissan RB26DETT.

Saw the beginning of Quincy MD on late night TV, and thought I'd have a look out for a Z. It was an episode abut vigalanties driving around causing problems. Saw a TA22 celica, then there was a silver 240Z parked in the background a minute later. Then I stopped watching it.

I email RS-Watanabe the other day, asking them if they have a distributer in Australia. Not sure if I'll receive an answer. Where you sourcing rewinds from?

Depends why your steering is loose. Could be caused by a number of reasons such as worn rack bushings, worn tie-rod ends, worn ball joints, or a worn rack. Youll have to get someone to rock the steering wheel back an forth, while you examine the steering assembly looking for the culprit.

Nah. I have enough project cars at the moment, but if a found a 240K coupe locally id be interested. Been working on the Z's a little bit. Will the superlites fit on a Z? What sort of wheels you getting?

How much would it cost to import? Zeds are a bit thin on the ground and finding a good one cheap will be a mission. Wouldnt be too difficult to convert to RHD with parts from a 260z, but the law these days dont require you to convert them. Theres plenty of LHD american cars on the road these days.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-datsun-240ks_W0QQitemZ4601646194QQcategoryZ102220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Pity they arent over this side of the country. Actually its probably a good thing. Have too many projects at the moment and I dont know how i'd explain to the landlord or the misses about the 3 datsun wrecks that appeared in the back yard.

1st get yourself a multimeter, or a test lamp (or even make a test lamp with some wire and a 12volt light globe). That way you can tell if you are getting voltage at the faulty item. Note: Washer/wiper probably only works when the ignition is switched to on. Problem 1. : Firslty I'd plug in the old washer bottle/pump and see if it still works. If it does, the switch isnt the problem, its the new washer bottle, or how you have connected it. To test for power at the washer bottle, connect the test lamp to the wires where the washer pump is (disconnect the pump). Press the washer button in the on the dash. Light should light up. If there is no light, you'll need a multi meter to test if the switch is working. Do this by switching the mutlimeter to measure resistance.Then plug both ends into the unplugged washer switch. It should read as an open circuit. Then press the button. It should read close to 0 ohms resistance. If it does, then the switch is working. If it still reads as open circuit then thats the problem. Also you will need a wiring diagram to work out which is the positive feed to the switch. Change the multimeter to measure volts DC 12 volt range should do it, and check if there is a positive feed going to the switch. As for the defroster, check that you have volatge at the rear window. clip the test lamp to the positive feed and the other to earth, and switch it on and see if the light lights up. You can also measure the resistance across the heater grid on the back screen. once again, open circuit means the heater grid is stuffed. It might sound stupid but a simple analogy to understaing how electrics work is to think of it like you would think of water in a pipe. (its electrons flowing in a wire, so its not too different). So for the washer to work power has to flow form the +ve battery terminal to the fuse, then to the dash switch, (which is like a stop valve to use the water analogy). When you press the switch it continues to flow to the pump motor then to ground (-ve terminal). If there are any breaks in the wires, or plug connections have corroded enough to block the flow it wont work. (The electrons acatually flow from the negative to the positive terminal, but forget that, its not important to know). You can clean up plug connections with a piece of dry wet & dry paper.

It's just supply and demand. As Car manufactureres shifted to larger size rims (15"+) as standard, tyre manufactures, make more larger tyres, and less older size tyres, and the tyre shops dont keep the older sizes in stock, because there's not alot of demand for them, and they would just take up space. Thats why if I was putting new mags on the Z I'd go for 15 inch wheels. Theres a Melbourne in Florida?

T.I.R. http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo3.html They are plastice ones though. Originals were metal. Have people had problems with T.I.R.?

Its all ust my personal opinon, everyones got one, and some are bound to disagree with each other. Me, I like blue, dark metalic blue - not a factory colour though. Dark metalic gray is good too, and black, all not factory colours. Orange is good. Red is a bit cliche, silver is a bit bland, Lime yellow is interesting, so is metalic olive green. When I think of he 240z no particular colour comes to mind. Ah threads like this alway end in tears. There is no best colour, its all persons opinion. It's like asking someone whats the best song. You are going to get lots of different answers, none of them right or wrong, just peoples opinions. Sure ask people what their favorite colour is, just dont try and pick one as "The Z colour" Sorry to rain on your parade. Feeling a little pessimistic today (last day of holidays, back to work tomorrow). What colour is your Z 7240Z?

Peter, Any progress on using L20ET parts to boost a L28 ?

JDM also got fairladys badged as Fairlady 240Z or Fairlady 280Z when they had the bigger engines.