Mr Camouflage

Bonus G nose, that aint bad. Is it a 5 piece one? Stroking a L28 isn't for the faint hearted. If you dont know much about engine building and are planning to do it yourself, you might want to leave it to a professional engine builder, But I'm all for having a go yourself (I do) so dont let me put you off. Theres a few sites that tell you what you need and how to do it. At least LD28 cranks are easy to come by in NZ. Theres one on Trade me for $150 at the moment. I hear bolting the turbo gear off a L20ET onto a L28 is a cheap alternative for more horsepower.

Well that site will show you what tyres fit on what wheels. But the problem Murph is talking about is the +38mm offset making the wheel/tyre hit the strut. I had a 14 X 7 mag with 0 offset and 235 tyres and they barely cleared the strut at the rear. In fact theres a slightly polished part on the lower spring perch from the tyres rubbing during cornering.

I'm sure a C210 would have had Air-con as a factory option, so you should be able to find parts that will bolt straight up. A friend of mine has a C210 2000GT turbo years ago, and i'm pretty sure it had air con. It had everything else, digital dash, power steering, electric mirrors and windows, efi. Theres a C210 at a wreckers here in Perth. Read about it here: http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6875

No need to remove the window. Just wind it right up, to undo the nuts, then wind it right down again. There should be enough gap between the edge of the window to get a flat screwdriver in and pop the arm out of the handle. (It's held in with a plastic clip). It works for me on a 240Z, I dont see why a 280Z should be so different.

I use a comblination of free programs. For Virus detection: Avast anti virus as mentioned above. Its free for home use (Free registration required). For Spyware: Spybot search and destroy (think thats been mentioned too). For a firewall: Zone Labs Zone Alarm. also free for home use. This will pretty much block everything bad form getting to your computer.

Yes, they never made them in England. I think what alfa means is were they sold from Nissan dealers in England, or is it a private import to the UK.

I think the term crossfow/ no cross flow is a bit confusing to some. People tend to think that the air in an engine flows smoothly from the intake to the exhaust, and that having the air seeming do a 180 and travel back in the same direction would be bad for efficiency, when the air isnt really flowing at all. When what really is happening is that the air is being sucked into a cylinder, then the vlaves close, end of flow. their is no air flow once the valve is shut, theres no where for it to go. then the pistons compresses the air/fuel mix, the spark plug ignites it causing the mix to explode, which increases the pressure in the closed cylinder, forcing the piston down. Once the power stroke is done, the air, which is still compressed needs to escape, which it does when the exhaust valve opens, not so much because the piston is forcing it out in the exhaust cycle, but because pressurised gas will move to a lower pressure area to equalise pressure with the surrounding enviroment. So the air doesnt really flow, it get sealed in a container,compressed and exploded, and allowed to vent to a lower pressure zone through the exhaust. So I guess what i'm saing is that air flows through an engine, like water flows down a river - if the river was a line of buckets, and you emptied the water from one bucket to the next, and then the next etc... (Sure theres valve overlap, but i'm not going into that, maybe soemone else can)

Well, if you look over <---- there, it tells you where i'm from. If you go to your user CP you can update your details and put in your location.

Thanks Lachlan. I've been playing with Z#2 instead of the K. I removed those ugly metal side skirts today. Must have missed the manual, its not there anymore. I saw a 240K sedan at a shopping center on tuesday. Parked next to it in my 88 skyline. Would have been weird if i was in the K, and the other owner came back and found another K parked next to it. I checked out the stainless trim. The bonet trim was perfect. other bits had some dents .

what do i win, what do i win?

Maybe the 555kg is a load rating for each rim. I cant see a set of 4 mags weighing that much. I just pulled a 7JJx14 mag off the back of my z today to remove some ugly metal side skirts, and i doubt i'd be able to lift it if it weighed 138kg (555/3). 7240z What country are you in?

Maybe its the way he "Gets" them +38 offset, will that fit a Z? or are you going with spacers, or have you got modified struts. 555kg, Damn thats heavy 223 pounds. That must be a type-o right?

Anybody got and scans of 240K wiring diagrams they could post? Might try and get the interior fan blower working in my K. Wiring digrams would be a help.

Not many people want a 240K 4 door, not even 3 for the price of one. Your ebay ad says $2250 for all three thats makes $750 the price of one. So you're selling all three for $750 now. You might be able to sell them at that price. Probably have better luck parting them out though. I wonder if you could sell them back to Japan? Dont think theres many 4 door 240K's over there anymore.

That would be whats known as a "guide coat", not "skim coat". Thats where they hit it with a very light coat of dark paint then block it back to see the dents. where there is colour left, thats a low spot, that needs a bit of spray putty/hi build primer. Skim coat it for lazy arse panel beaters that want a high turnover in cars and arent to concerned about what the car will look like in 5 to 10 years time. The cheapest way to get a nice flat smooth surface it to coat the whole panel in bondo then hit it with the electric sander. Bondo is cheaper than actually paying a worker the time it would take to do some some "real" panel beating. Zthing, use a high fill primer to fill the scratches in the metal, then sand it back smooth.

Yes. :classic:

If you are conflicted between modifying or keeping it original this is your best option. It's what i'm going to do. I have 2 240's now i just gotta get one finished so i can at least drive one.

The chrome rim is just fitted into the console and held in by tabs. My guess is the photo of the one without the chrome rim is an aftermarked repro one, the idea being that you should fit the chrome rim from yours into it. The top pic and the one on the blue backgraound are "series 2" 240z. the other one in the box is 260Z-280Z

Yeah I had the same problem with a different car (was a Aussie turbo all wheel drive Laser TX-3 - basically a re-modeled Mazda 323 4wd turbo). Clicking was coming from the front left side of the car. It was dependant on car speed, not engine revs. I thought it was a cv joint in the driveshaft, after wasting money getting it rebuilt I discovered it was a missing tooth on either the diff crown wheel or the output shaft of the gearbox (front diff was built onto the end of the gearbox). How I discovered it was that, was I got pissed off after spending the time replacing the driveshaft, and after the test drive it was still making the noise, and dumped the clutch in 1st gear, and bang, stripped half the teeth off the output shaft and about 10 teeth off the crown wheel in various positions around the wheel. took the gearbox/diff to get rebuilt , was going to cost $3K, so I said forget it and collected the pieces. It was a mess. got another second hand one for $850. So worst case scenario, you have a missing tooth in your diff. How can you check for it? I guess if you jack one wheel off the ground, (use an axel stand, car in neutral). Get a helper to put some resistance on the driveshaft (from the gearbox to the diff), and turn the wheel slowly and you can feel the diff jump. but yeah, check the tyres for stones/nails, and the uni joints in the half shafts for play. also check the hub flanges for play. Might be a wheel bearing problem too.

I have a car sitting in the shed at home thats the same. Early (1970ish) vin tags on a 1973 firewall vin chassis, 260Z engine. Looks like the diff/moustache bar is from the 1970 car, but haven really looked too closely at it. My other z is a matching numbers car.

I was reading in the Noltec catalogue that they make a poly bushes in 2 grades. one hard and one softer (Softride range ). check it out. http://www.noltec.com.au/

Thanks for that Ben. I knew about the other clocks, but couldn't see close enough in the photo to make out what type it was.

Hitting the piston you mean? Wouldnt have thought that there would be much difference in the valve sizes in the e30 compared to the e31 or e33. Noticed that the clock seems to have extra markings and third pointer (hours minutes and seconds I presume). Has this been mentioned before.

I found an archived version of the site at Allan and Rosannes site: http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/VeggieCar/veggiecar.htm