Mr Camouflage

Yeah the strut assembly is swapable, if you are intending to go off road rallying and need the extra ground clearance. as i said in another thread: The tops are longer, the bottom perch is in a different position and they have more travel. they are about and inch to 1 1/2" longer that the 2 seater. If you put them on the 2 seater you will end up with the "Rally look". There was a good photo of someone that put 2+2 rears on there 2 seater, been searching, but I cant find it. The back of the car had huge gap between the top of the rear wheel and the wheel arch. (maybe between 3 to 5 inches difference). Just to clarify: you cant use the strut cartridge inserts from a 260 in a 240, or vice versa. bits you can use: front crossmenber (has more reinforcing that a 240 cross member around the mounting bolt holes where it bolts to the chassis). front pivot arms, tc rods (i think), steering arms (though the diameter of the tie rod end hole may be different), steering rack (240 aparently has plastic parts in them, the 260z has metal). sway bar. All the pannels from the windshield forward. windshield.

Like your 240c huh Aaron? Just seems that way. Lots of them are being driven, when a z is working, there's not much point being here talking about them. Speaking of 240C's I think I know where one seems to have been abandond. it's either a 240/260 or 280C and it doesnt look to have moved in months. Its parked around the side of the petrol station.

Think it might be a skyline head.

It may be possible to use your old drive shaft with the turbo driveshaft gearbox end bit thingy. or i guess the diff end. with the normal drive shaft flange. If you pull the uni joints apart and swap the parts over. Just a thought, dont even know if its possible.. Some advice from someone more technical on the subject might help, so people jump on in...

Watching Myth Busters tonight. Theres a white 280Z in the background when they are trying to make quicksand.

240Z's didnt have electronics, they had electrics. Everything was analouge.

Heres a 240z rear strut (blue spring at the front of picture) 260z 2+2 rear strut. (at the rear of picture) Most of the height difference is in the spring between the perchs, and also the 2+2 has a taller end mount thing.

Front end probably yes, rear end' id have to say no. The struts on a 2+2 are longer, so i guess the springs are longer too, which may give your 240z the rally look. ie. the back end will be a couple of inches taller than it should be. Thats what happens whe people have put 2+2 strut assemblies in a 2 seater. Guessing that the springs may have the same effect if used in a 2 seater strut. Heres a photo of some springs. The black one on the left is from a 260z 2+2 front strut. The 2 red ones are 240z front springs. The blue ones are 240z rear springs.

Sue them for the emotional stress they caused you. :mad:

......and the last 2 pages The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track6.pdf The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track7.pdf

Are you on dial-up? If so you'll probably have to save it to your computer before opening it, but it will take a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time to download. So heres the same article, resized and as separate pages (i zipped it, but it was to big to upload in one go. 2 meg limit zipped was 2.85 mb). The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track1.pdf The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track2.pdf The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track3.pdf The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track4.pdf The 3500 Dollar GT - July 1971 Road and Track5.pdf

Because its 7 pages of images (of pictures and text). If it was 7 pages of text and pictures it would be alot smaller.

I wonder what a 240Z would look like with chrome like paint like that has. If only the 350Z looked more like that.

OK as a comparison a complete car minus seats, engine and transmission, had all rust repaired (not that there was much to begin with), new floors. Had all glass, dash, suspension wheels etc. Really just needed an engine, gearbox and seats and it was good to go. It was sold for $2500, I believe (at least thats how much it was offered to me for), and is now getting an RB25DET transplant. Whoever buys it has to take into concideration how much would all the bits cost to make that into a complete car again. But if they had a wrecked 240z to salvage all the bits from....

When you get the floor pan, heres a good reference article : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17235

Yeah, didnt hear of any serious injuries, but someone could have easily been killed, was just a matter of luck they weren't. A Crane on a building site blew over and landed on another building (ABC - Australian broadcasting company) and smashed a reporters desk, which she had just gotten up from. I got stuck in traffic on the Monday on the way to work. Took 1 hour and 30 miuntes to get to work, usually takes me 30 minutes.

I think they only go whhheeeeeeee! no Pshhhh! . Just mug a sports umpire an stick the whistle in the exaust. And since i cant be bothered starting a new thread...... Here are some more awesome, rare and unusual japanese muscle and not so muscle cars, olds-cool. If you are not on dialup, i reccomend you check them out. http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=67649&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 From the Fuji Jambouree or some thing.

Globe 15" Mags These look nice. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6782&item=7975213958&rd=1

Well i dont think it would be easy, nut not impossible. ust depends on how handy you are that sort of thing.

I think you can upload it to your gallery as a multimedia file, maybe? If it doenst accept the .pdf extention, try renaming it to .pdf.avi or maybe pdf.zip and put a note telling people to rename it back after downloading it.

Bump steer anybody? Has you car been lowered? As the weight of the car shifts to the side as the cars rolls, and if the car has been lowered withoud adding the bump steer spacers to correct the steering geometry of the front suspension then the steering angle of the wheels will vary depending on the body roll, or if you hit a bump. which is why its known as "bump steer". The theory is that the distance of end of the steering rack to the steering arm, and the distance of the suspention pivot arm should be the same to avoid bump steer. When you lower the Z the distances get all screwed up and the bump steer effect is increased, which is why people invented the spacers. Well thats how I understand it, feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. Though i'd get it checked out by the experts anyway. Steering is one thing you dont want to lose when driving. What condition are your steering mount bushes in? Jack the car up and give the wheels a good shake. Might be a ball joint, or a tie rod end.

The 240z dash is perfection. Simple, practical. what a sports car dash should be. What flow got to do with it?

Heres a tip for avoiding the kerbs in parking lots. Get very good at reverse parking.

Yeah, good link

Nice original 1200 coupe http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=102336&item=4550277801&rd=1