Mr Camouflage

Wrong era for the R32 Alfa. Though Glen Seaton raced a R30 FJ20 turbo around that time.

Neither. No such engine as an RB25DETT, and its not a GTST, which had the RB25DET. The GTR (which that car is, or at least it a replica of, has flared guards that only the GTR had) has an RB26DETT. So thats a R33 GTR with the RB26DETT, by the looks of it.

I dont really know waht you mean, but No idea, sorry I dont understand what you mean. Unless you have coilovers you cant adjust the strut length. If the springs are a stiffer rate (they look fatter so they probably are) then they wont compress as much, so they could stit at the same hieght as a weaker spring of a longer unloaded height. which is probably why they are shorter. The rear should looked too low in the photo. The rear should be the same if not more higher than the front. shouldn't it. US and European 240z should be the same weight. Unless you got springs for a 280z. that might make the car ride higher as the 280z is heavier isnt it. Yes, springs are designed to push the car up off the road. The stiffer the spring the higher it will sit (shock cartridge length has nothing to do with the ride height of the car, unless you put in ones that are way too short). Maybey you ordered 280z springs. Maybe you ordered standard ride height springs, instead of lowered springs. Maybe you ordered extra stiff springs. Check with the manufacturer. Have you got photos of the car with the new springs?

The tops are longer, the bottom perch is in a different position and they have more travell. they are about and inch to 1 1/2" longer that the 2 seater. If you put them on the 2 seater you will end up with the "Rally look". If you put shorter springs on them you risk bottoming out the struts and unseating the springs. Why not rebuild the 2 seater struts? stick the 2+2's temporarily while you get the original struts fixed if you have to.

No Z's but i loved Need For Speed Porsche. peer to peer tcp/ip racing was great. I've tried racer with the 240z. Its very difficult being a simulator, and not so much a game. and if you fall off the track you end up spinning through space forever, which is kind of weird. untill you hit excape that is. There's another internet game called "live for speed" think there was a free demo. http://www.liveforspeed.net/ I think you can set up your own server. Would be cool to have a race server where we could race against each other. And theres the Nissan Racing Simulator that has been discussed on this site before. Which has a load of datsun/nissan cars like the 240z and the c10 Skyline GTR.

Howdy Alan. While your emailing pictures around, you got any more silvia stuff you could send me? I'll send you a pm.

Try using the search function on the forums and in the gallery. There are a couple of threads discussing what PMCS stands for and i'm pretty sure i saw some photos in them. Alan T's gallerry should ba a good place to look too. aka HS30-H Look here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5568&highlight=PMC.S

If you are not a stickler for originality you could replace the VR with a new solid state (transistor) unit one and never have VR roblems again. I did with my first Z all those years ago.

Yes thats right. No charge for the rust. You get the rust for free. Rust thrown in at no extra cost. Except in this case he's gonna have to charge you a little for the rust, as it nearly rust free. Ok i'm done being silly.

This one nearly slipped past the radar. The space between the 240 and the Z means most searchs will miss it. Offered here is a 1971 Australian delivered 240z AUTO. This vehicle is reasonably complete and runs. Will require some work to re-register, has all the normal rust and some un-repaired accident damage on the drivers side rear quarter and door. This vehicle was last registered in 2000 NSW. Overall condition is fair. Stored in the open last 12 months. Welcome to view vehicle, Medowie NSW. Please email to arrange. Would need to finalise by 16th Dec $1500 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2030&item=4509953455&rd=1 One for you east coast guys. Also there was a set of triple solex carbies off a 260z that i was going to bid on, but couldn't be bothered. They went for $160. bargain.

in a nutshell tyre width/aspect ratio/rim size for example 185/80/R14 means 185 millimeters wide The height is 80 percent of the tyre width tall to fit 14 inch diameter wheel. Confusing mix of metric, imperial and ratios. Its no wonder people get confused.

Try what Ed said, If the easy ou dont get it moving try this: Dude, drill the bolt out using a smaller diameter than the bolt. you have to start with a small drill dead on center, then use larger drills untill the meat of the bolt is gone. Then the coils of the thread that are left can be pulled out. Its tricky to do, but not impossible. I did this, and was amazed when the leftover bolt came out like a pulling on a spring, leaving the hole thread undamaged and not needing retapping. And if you screw it up, then try retapping the hole.

Inspired by another thread asking about power output, Lets get this thread going as a reference to anyone asking the question "How much power can I get from my L series engine". Rules. Rule Number 1. If you have had your car on a Dyno post your power output here, Attach a image of the dyno result. Rule Number 2. List what series engine you have and any modification you have done to the engine ( eg L28 , .40 overbore, type of cam (durations ), induction, compression, exhaust) as much info as possible. Rule Number 3. Nissan L series 6 cylinders only. Rule Number 4. Dont post if you dont have a dyno reading and an image of the reading to attach. We want this to be factual readings. And dont post to say this is a dumb idea, or this is a good idea, or whatever. The only following posts should be dyno readings. So if you have had your Z car on a dyno, show us your results.

So why is it that Ferraris (particularly the F355) always burst into flames the moment the have the slightest accident? Saw a F355 tap the wall at bathurst a few years back, it burst into flames Was a very minor accident. An F355 crashed in Perth, it burst into flames. Heard about some US Sports guy driving a F355 while drunk, crashed and you guessed it, burst into flames. Then theres that video. The porsche didnt burst into flames, except when the ferrari hit it and spilled burning petrol all over it. "Friends dont let their friend drive ferraris."

OK I'll chip in my 2 cents worth. As you would be aware, changing carbies on a stock motor would have almot no effect on the HP of the engine. It might be able to breathe a little easier through 6 venturi of the triple carb setup, compared to the 2 venturies of the twin SU, but not much gains there unless you cna make the engine breathe better. Meaning more extreme cams, bigger valves, bigger exhaust. To get decent horsepower you need higer compression, and/or more cubic inches. The V8 guys love telling you, "there is no substitute for cubic inches". but its more accurate to say that the more air/fuel mix you can get in the engine and the more you can compress it is what makes high horsepower. Thats why people go with the L28, cheaper gains to be had from larger engine displacement. and it has bigger valves. The L24 is hichly regarded because its a shorter stroke engine, meaning it can rev easier and higher. The L26 is basically and L24 with increased stroke (same piston diamers as a L24). and the L28 has the stroke of an L26 but with bigger pistons. I think is is possible to bore the L24 to L28 size and use L28 pistons and crank (aparenly on of the guys in WA had that setup in his race car). It would still look original apart from the carbies, but would be 2.8 litre engine. The car was basically undrivable on the street. If you want to keep it original, how about pulling out the motor, laying it up, and stick it in a crate and hang on to it. Then drop in whatever motor you want and do whatever you want to it. That way when the time comes to put it back to original you have the original matching numbers engine to put back in, if you are concerned with resale value. If you are going for a bigger engine Heres some homework for you: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Very early eighties styling. Not sure if we got that model in australia. I dont remember ever seeing one. We did get the gazelle though, which i think was just a renamed silvia/200sx. I odnt think the name helped sales. Would you buy a car called gazelle? Nissan sure had some wierd car names. Sunny, Cherry, Homer, Cerdic to name a few. Gazelle must be the worst though.

I was gonna buy one for $50 (aussie dollars) off a guy i know, but i'd gone to so much effort restoring the standard grill that I didn't.

Hi Kats. I too have a 240Z emblem with the solid chrome Z. Got it from ebay Australia.

Yeah i didn't really know how to describe it properly either. Here's a picture from a book i have.

This has been discussed many times before, and is one of the differences between series 1 and series 2 240z's. Series 1 dont have a hole behind the emblem (they had the 240z emblem the vents were in the hatch). Series 2 had the round emblem and a vent hole behind it. (moved possibly due to exhaust fumes getting in through the hatch vents). Behind the hole is a pressed metal plate which is open at the top a few inches above the hole, so the rain and weather doesn't get it. P.S. my 240z has one of each. A hole on one side and no hole on the other where the entire panel was replaced with a series 1 panel after an accident

Yeah fishing. (why the "ph" i wonder). Be a hard to catch fish. Send them some random, fake numbers, and let them waste their time trying to log in. The fake site seems to have been taken down already Is the BIG RED TEXT necessary? Its easier to read the message when it all fits on the screen at one time.

I did have one. Put it on this website for a while, got no interest. Sent it off to be crushed with the rest of the car. I needed the space. Shipping would be a killer.