Jump to content
Remove Ads

Mr Camouflage

Free Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mr Camouflage

  1. Use Chemical Paint stripper and a wire brush attachment in a grinder if taking it back to bare metal. Dont use sanding disks on metal as it gouges the metal surface, leaving lots of tiny scratches, and an overall rough surface, which will rust (oxadise) instantly when/if you use wet and dry to finish sanding the panel. You'll then have to etch the panel to remove the oxidisation. If you use a wire brush, it leaves the metal smooth, which you can wet and dry sand, and wipe dry, and etch prime. I only use sanding disks on panels to remove the tiny surface rust patches that occur under the paint (mostly around holes).
  2. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Australia & NZ
    You could try here for a start. http://www.classiczcars.com/modules.php?s=&op=modload&name=Web_Links&file=index&l_op=viewlink&cid=9
  3. I've been using a wire brush attachment, also chemical paint stripper, and a sanding disk in a drill, so far its taken me about 6 months, 10 wire brush attachments and 6 liters paint stripper. :stupid: Next time i'll get it media blasted:stupid: :stupid: And i recommend you do too.
  4. Mr Camouflage commented on Gee's comment on a gallery image in Member Albums
  5. How much does midwest Z sell thier rear taillights for (2460/280Z variety)?
  6. This is normal Autos are only supposed to start in N or P. Your other car is illegal to use on the road. Cops would give you a defect notice if they tested it. or noticed you starting it in anything other than D or P. And Changing gears without using the clutch is possible. Truck Drivers do it all the time (but they use a clutch). Its called double clutching. You're in one gear, put it in neutral, match the revs to the speed of the gear that you want to change to (thats the hard part), and put it into gear.
  7. Before you put the doors back together spray some anti rust fish oil stuff in there.
  8. I have a 2+2. Going to be cutting it up into pieces one of these days. Bought it for parts. Had been sitting since 1996. Too far gone with rust to be saved. (Pics in my gallery) I dont dislike the 2+2's, its just that I think the 2 seaters are better looking. Some guys here in Perth have some really nicely restored 2+2's. (check out www.wazregister.com/gallery/2003 Z Day/ for some pictures) But getting back to what this thread is supposed to be about. Justin. If the cars not too rusty it might be worth saving. Have you thought about selling the whole car as is? Problem is that alot of people just dont want 2+2's. Unless like me you are after some spare parts. Also in my gallery is a silver 2+2 that a guy I know is trying to sell for $2500. It registered, but hasnt been regularly driven since the 1980's and has 22000kms on the clock. It's worth saving in my opinion, but I wouldnt pay $2500 for it.
  9. Mr Camouflage commented on 26ounce's comment on a gallery image in Body Work and Paint
  10. I has a similar problem with my parts car. The lock was seized up. What you could do is get at the lock from inside the car, pull the tailgate panel off, and press the latch down from the inside with a screwdriver (you dont need a key). Or if its seized or you cant get the panel off you can do what i did: Pull out the licence plate light off. unscrew the latch bolts completely Lift the hatch up as far as it will go (an inch or 2 is the most it will open with the latch still in the clampy bit), and wedge it open. Unscrew the bolts holding the clamping bit to the tail gate. Hey presto the hatch is open. This takes ages, as you can oly turn the bolts a tiny amount at a time.
  11. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in 240K Skyline
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2474387075&category=32063 tail light on ebay
  12. Is there no law on advertising stuff for a certain price, then telling the buyer the ad was wrong, in the US? If their website lists a certain price, you should be able to get it for that price. Down here, i'm not sure of the laws, but most companies that advertise stuff will sell you it at the advertised price, even if it was wrong, out of goodwill, or offer a public apology for incorrectly advertising the item. And if they dont, there are government departments you can complain to that will investigate the company.
  13. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    So no one's really answered my question yet.
  14. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Yep. Gonna paint it black. I saw a photo of Auxilary's 240, and just had to paint it Black. Sounds like a rolling stones song: I see a line of zeds and they're all painted red. I see my red zed, and i want to paint it black. The original colour is silver, but i'm not too fond of silver cars.
  15. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    It's a lot of work, but I always strip to bare metal. Even under perfect looking original 30 year old paint you will find the beginnings of rust, which will continue to slowly rust away under your newly painted top coat.
  16. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    This might be a dumb question, but here goes. I've stripped and etch primed the engine bay and under the bonnet, and want to paint them. Is it ok to paint the colour paint straight onto the etch primer? or should I use some sort of undercoat.
  17. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Come on people, if you are gonna tell somene they are wrong about something, you should be damn sure you are right. What's next, your gonna tell me my steering wheel is made of wood, and my sunroof was installed at the factory? Check out St.stephen being St.stephen.
  18. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    No they are plastic. Its a 260Z not a 240z. They are plastic. Try reading the post before incorrectly correcting sombody.
  19. to embed a photo in the post you have to open the photo, right click and properties, and copy the absolute file path to the image. in this case its:http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/3356Exterior_Driver_s_Side.jpg It should be stuck with tape. Depends on how well your paint is bonded to the metal, and how carefully you remove it as to whether you will pull the paint off under the strip. Use a solvent to loosen the tape. (that orange citrus stuff works ok, and doesnt remove paint), then polish and re wax the area.
  20. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    and:
  21. Mr Camouflage posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Yeah it has a wire going inside to the big round bit that goes round and round. I think it has magnets on it, and the magnetic pull makes the needle register a speed. Its probably some sort of sensor to guage car speed.
  22. You only need one, and a bunch of powerboard adapters.
  23. No you would cut the flare, where the edge of the door is, unless they actually make 2 piece flares (SS -A9X LX Torana Style). Edit (Alan says yes they do). I just saw one on the way home tonight. Took a different way home from work and saw one in someones driveway.
  24. Are you running the stock FI computer? If so get a tunable aftermarket computer.
  25. Mr Camouflage commented on 240Zdragon72's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.