somecreep

I have a related question: my aftermarket intake manifold isn't drilled for the check valve. Instead of drilling it could I get away with just using a small filter breather after the check valve, or does the booster need to be linked with the air in the intake manifold for some specific reason?

Someone with patience, time, and space: please rescue this one... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Rare-Restorable-Fairlady-Z-early-70s-/170653551729?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27bbbe8c71

Yep, the stainless Fujitsubo header fits on a LHD 240z just fine. I was able to get one shipped to North America with these guys: http://www.nengun.com/fujitsubo/super-ex Here's a photo of the steering shaft clearance...

I used these guys based out of Washington State to re-plate the chrome on my 240z tail light trims. The result was impressive. http://www.cvvacuumplaters.com/restoration.htm

There was a BOB SHARP valve cover on a car on ebay a while back, George. Attached is a photo from that auction. Looks like they were $119 new.

Attached are some more photos of the Kakimoto style valve covers...

btw, its also up for grabs on ebay! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8051268180&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ALCA%3AUS%3A11

Hey, check it out. I restored my P30 intake mainifold. Its kind of a hard one to come by. After much blasting, and clear-coating, it looks pretty much like new. pics attached...

The same thing used to happen in the 280z, to my CD player whenever I put the car in reverse.

Right. he, he. I knew that, seriously, I was just testing you guyes! :stupid:

Interesting thread, I have no stress fractures on my doors, however, when I close my driver's side door, the metal 'POP's as the closing or opening motion is about halfway through. Could this be the doorskin that has deformed over time and is poping in and out of place ever time is moved? anyone else have this problem or know how to fix it?

Is that a US spec 240Z? It has no rear marker lights. :cross-eye

Hey- for all you rally clock fans, here is the guts of one on ebay, not too expensive, but its the 77, 78 version.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973744767&category=33673

I think you should be fine with the 72 door panel on the 73 door. What will NOT work however, is mixing door panels from a 240z with a 260z or a 280z. The doors are a completely different design. I figured this out the hard way when I tried to match up the bolt holes for the arm rests.

oops, here it is...

Anybody know of these taillights are OEM? They are solid red on the bottom half.

I could be wrong about this, but I think early 240z taillamp lenses actually were a darker red plastic. I realized this from digging through parts bins, both RH and LH lenses. And Im pretty sure it wasn't just exhaust carbon... One of your taillamps might have been replaced at some point.

After removing the gauges from the dash of my 240z I realized the car wouldn't start without the tach being plugged in. Now, whenever I leave my Z overnight I just unplug the tach behind the dash. Its easy, and takes 2 seconds once you know where to reach without looking. I got worried when my Z mechanic took a Z key at random from his collection, and popped the hatch open by jiggling it!

In the 2 photos posted above it looks like beige paint under the remenants of the tar. (?) Was is painted before removal?