280ZWarrior

Forgot the Time: noon till about 3-4pm

Tomorrow....Sat. Aug. 19th in Concord, NH. NEZC is hosting a meet and all Z's are welcome....If you are near by and want to stop by...please do! It will mostly be 300zx but we're all family Location: Merchant's Nisssan in Concord New Hampshire

This 280Z didn't have stripes. Anywho, I love it when I spot Zs here in CT, especially S30s. There aren't many....at least to my knowledge.

Today I saw a silver 280z pulling out of Ocean State Job Lot in my town, Southington. I was in my 300zx and followed him a bit on the highway (I-84 East) and honked at him with thumbs up. I don't really think he knew I was also driving a Z nor that I liked his car, I think he thought I wanted to race oh well. I was just seeing if he was on here. I don't see any s30's around my area ever so I got excited. I wish I was driving my 280z along side him...would have been fun.

If the instructions from the FSM aren't too long for the adjustment of the BCDD, could you post them? I am still in the process of finding a '78 FSM at a reasonable price and only have the chilton manual. Thanks again, Mike

Never heard of that before. I did a search for it and it seems like it could be part of my rpm problem. However, I haven't found anything on adusting it... sblake01-Do you have any further knowledge of adjusting the BCDD?? Thanks in advance, Mike

As a matter of fact my car did come from California! That's amazing! You must really know your stuff. Can you tell me where is this altitude corrector located and how to properly adjust it?? It is quite annoying when I want to shift or just roll to an idle... So basically I can just remove that piece that I posted a picture of? It won't affect anything important (ie: Emissions, MPG, Air/Fuel mixture)? Thanks again, Mike

It can't be on manual cars only because mine was an automatic from the factory. When I put my finger ofer the top and move the throttle linkage, it creats a suction. That is why I figure it has/had a vacuum connection. The reason I'm asking all this is because when I push in the clutch to shift while driving, the car revs up about 500rpm...

I just did a auto to manual conversion, header, and exhaust. It seems that when my Z was an automatic, the idle was smoother. I blocked off my egr so I know it isn't that. I'm guessing it is a vacuum leak and it might be this... Any ideas what it is and its function? It seems to be missing a vacuum hose to somwhere... Thanks in advance, Mike

I don't have an old one to go by seeing I was auto. However, I checked the rebuilt slave at the parts store and they were identical. As far as the master rod, I'll have to either order a new one and compare them or figure something else out.

Hey there Alissa, I too am in CT. Southington to be exact. Once the sand/salt starts to dissapear off the roads a bit, I'll come stop by the shop and take a look around. I'm pretty sure I'll be needing some service sometime in the near future. Mike

78 280zcar - I was thinking of that. I went to the auto store with the ZX slave and compared it to the 78 slave and they looked identical. They are both 3/4 dia. I just figure that they are the same. From what I know is that 1975 and later used the self adjusting slave and that they are the same. I'm going to look into finding a linger rod for the slave or a longer master cylinder. I'll be working on the car tomorrow around 4:00pm. Maybe I missed something when hanging the pedals...Do you think that I could have mixed up the brake and clutch pedal??

I took off the spacer. I'm really stumped on this. The clutch pedal is very close to the floor. The master cylinder is adjusted all the way out. It basically seems that the rod from the slave needs to be longer...

We went from an Auto to 5spd. It basically seems that the slave isn't pushing the arm/lever far enough to disengauge the clutch fully. It does disenguage the clutch part way because I can start the car with the clutch pedal pushed in and the brake on, and when I let my foor off the brake, the car will roll, so therefore, the clutch is slipping and not fully disenguaging. Could it be a bad master cylinder? It is a brand new one and so is the slave.

We just got everything into my 78 and when we started it in the air the tires were spinning. But when we put in on the ground we cannot get into any gear while running the engine. The problem is that the clutch isnt disengaging all the way. But our problem is that we dont know what it is. Its brand new clutch line, slave, and master cylinder but the tranny is from an 82 and the car is a 78. Also the slave is from an 82 but the master is off of a 78. could that be the isssue any help would be great need it asap

We are wrapping up the 5 spd swap to my 78. After my friend installed the pedals we saw that the pedal is really close to the firewall. Is this normal b/c it seems that the master cylinder is short even being adjusted out all the way

Enigma, wal280z, & 280zcar - that info was perfect...she's running again and purring like a kitten. Thanks for all your help. Just have to cut the tranny tunnel and hopefully I can drive her out of my garage after 3 months. Thanks again, Mike

From what I am gathering: 2 wires are for the reverse light. 2 wires are for the "kick down" switch on the gas pedal 2 wires are the neutral safety switch I know I don't need the "kick down" switch because it is now a manual tranny I need to find out which 2 wires are for the reverse lights to hook into the tranny I need to know which 2 wires are for the neutral safety switch so I can jump them together so the car will start.

I am in the middle of a 5 spd swap on my 78 280Z. Im using the tranny from an 82 280ZX. Now where do the 6 wires go. I have searched the forum and only found articles on the 4 wires. i have a black with red stripe, a solid black, 2 solid green, and 2 white with blue stripes. What goes where, i need to get this car started!!!!

Hey I'm in Central CT and was wondering if it was still for sale? If it is, can you verify the head?? I'm actually looking for a parts car for cheap. Thanks

Yes those are the fusible links. Somethimes they will be melted apart. If the coating on the link looks bubbly, change them....With my 280, I have the covers but they are all cracked. therefore water gets in there and screws around with the link.....with mine, the water corroaded the fuse from the inside. So I never thought that was the problem because they looked fine.....Make sure that it is a fuse and not just a wire...If it is a wire than it wont blow when it should and ruin other equipment attached to that fuse. So therefore...you might as well change them...I'm not sure what guage each one needs to be so you might want to research that...i dont know which one is which either....I'm having charging problems because of the bottom right fuse according to the pic....it keeps getting real hot and melting. So the bottom right is for altenator to battery link....I think the headlights might be the top right one but I really dont remember. Hope I was of some help and good luck

You might want to check the fusible links...I know on my 280Z there is a fusible link in the engine bay next to the battery that runs the headlights....It took me forever to figure that out. I don't know if u allready checked them, but I just thought I'd let you know...As for the dash lights.....sounds like a wiring problem.

How many miles on it? I might be interested. Do you know how much it would cost to ship it up to CT? Thanks, Mike

Lee, Yes, the AT driveshaft is different from the MT driveshaft.....they have different ends on them or something like that. The AT driveshaft won't fit into the MT tranny. I have an AT tranny now and am doing a 5spd swap....Only a 75-78 280Z 2+2 driveshaft will work for this swap (4spd or 5spd). Thanx anyways. Mike

Hi, I'm doing a tranny swap and need a drive shaft from a 280Z 2+2 that is a five spd. If anyone has one lying around and wants to get rid of it, get back to me. All the junkyards around here only have 80-83 ZXs and no first generation Zs. Mike