Royce

Hmmm... I'll have to take a look at the casting numbers on the E88's I have. Regarding the valves. My E88 had been fitted with 280Z valves. I believe it is relatively simple machine work because if I remember correctly the original smaller valve seats can be machined to fit the larger valves. In other words they don't have to change the head itself. But probably best to check with Rebello or another Z engine builder to be sure. Have fun!

Time to stir the pot a little. What is an E88 head? I have heard conversations from respected Z folk that there are actually 4 different E88 heads on US model Z cars! Here is the way it was explained to me (corrections are welcome). Heads with the E88 stamped on them started around 01/71 with the series II 240Z(or late '71 model.) This head is supposed to have the same combustion chamber as the E31. Then, in 09/71 with the series III 240Z('72 model year) the combustion chamber was changed to slightly lower compression design. Next, with '73 model year the E88 head was further designed for lower emissions and finally in '74 larger exhaust valves, same size as 280Z, were put into the E88 head. I do have several of the E88 heads on spare engines but have yet to take them appart to see if I can document any noticable differences. I myself have a hard time believing there are 4 E88 heads but have found documentation of at least 2 different E88 designs. So which Z head to use- E31, E88, N42, N47, P79, P90 or P90A. Did I miss any? First, unless you plan on changing to round port exhaust you can rule out the N47 and P79. Next it depends on which block/pistons you will be using. If using 240, 260, 280Z block with stock crank, rod piston setup then forget the P90 & P90A unless you are going to run a turbo because the compression would be too low for performance driving. So that leaves the E31, E88 or N42. None of these are a "bad" choice, with the exception being the emissions designed E88. But trying to identify an E88 head may be a challenge. So that narrows us down to E31 vs. N42. The E31 is supposed to benefit from a slightly higher compression combustion chamber design but because of age and limited quantity finding one in good condition can be difficult and expensive. The N42 is slightly lower compression combustion chamber design but unlike the E31 and early E88 it has larger exhaust valves and came with hardened valve seats and guides for running unleaded fuel. Plus, there are lots more available and you can shave them to get higher compression if that is desired. Bottom line, I am guessing that the difference between the heads may be +/- 10 HP. Unless you head is damaged you would probably get more by setting your valves correctly, getting a valve job, changing the cam, recurving your distributor or porting and polishing your head and intake manifold then by searching for a new head. But it really depends on your desired results and how much $$$ you want to spend. Sorry for the long post! I hope it makes sense and is helpful!

The beauty of the internet is that you can reach so many people in around the world. But sometimes it can also be a curse! Bummer about the wheels! Sounds like you are going to need something like 20mm spacers or maybe you can go with a more narrow tire. I would suggest you stay away from generic wheel spacer if you plan on driving the car hard. Best to go to a machine shop and have them make you some good quality spacers. Depending on how wide the spacers are you may also consider upgrading to high grade wheel studs, like ARP. Then if the wheels are for front wheel drive which I doubt because you wouldn't be able to drive at all, then you would want a spacer that mounts to your hub using your existing studs then supplies you additional studs in the spacer to mount your wheel. Have fun!

Okay, lets take this one step at a time! Worn springs and struts will make the car ride very bouncy and will make it ride a couple inches lower than it should. What you describe does sound more like someone played a trick on you or that your suspension suffered from some massive failure. But I have never heard of all four corners breaking at the same time. Regarding the noise you heard when driving, it could be because the tires are rubbing on the suspension or could be because the mustache bar broke causing the diff to be free at the rear. I had this happen once and it could cause the noise you describe and would explain whey the diff is hanging down lower. I suspect mine broke because of a loose bolt mounting the diff to the mustache bar which allowed the diff to rock up and down with enough force to eventually brake the bar. But the diff being located differently wouldn't/shouldn't have anything to do with the tire issue. The diff is held on by a front mount and the mustache bar so if it has moved one of these mounts is damaged. Next, the tire issue. Maybe your tires have been like this all along. Check the inside of your tires for groves from where they are rubbing, this will give you a good idea how long they have been this way. My tires are very close to the spring perch on the sturt on my car. Worn springs or struts would not change this relationship. Unless you have camber adjust brackets or the bolts are loose at the top of the strut tower I dont' see how else this could happen unless you attempted to jump the car. Are your lug nuts tight? Loose lugs could allow the wheel to shift when it rolls causing a cluncking noise and may change the angle of the wheel in relation to the strut. What size tires/wheels do you have? Tires too wide or wheels with the wrong offset can cause the tires to rub the suspension. Is your car lowered or do you have any other suspension mods? What part of the suspension are the tires rubbing on, the sprint perch of the strut? Jack up a corner of the car and have someone rock the wheel in and out from top to bottom, then from front to back while you look underneith to see what might be moving. That's all I can thing of for now! If you can answer these questions we can be a lot more helpful to you. I hope it turns out to be something simple!

Howdy, I have recently become interested in the different intake manifolds as well. From what I can tell the E46 manifold came on '71 series I & series II 240z's, I haven't check a '70 series I car yet but it may have one to. Which means it could be attached to either an E31 head or a E88 head. But the real key is the carbs that are attached to the respective manifold! The E46 manifold was used with the "4 screw" dome top SU carbs and the E88 manifold started with the later "3 screw" dome top SU carbs on the '72 or series III (as Carl Beck would say) 240Z. I do have an engine with each in my garage, as well as the legendary E36 manifold. From what I can tell visually the E46 and E88 look very similar the obvious difference is that the E88 is plummed for coolant to be delivered through the base of the carbs. This is also the second most obvious difference between the "4 screw" SU's and the "3 screw" SU's (the difference in the number of screws mounting the domes being #1.) Either should work on either carb setup. I think the main difference being the E88 with the "3 screw" SU's may warm up a little faster in colder temperatures. With the E46 and the "3 screw" SU's the water passages in the base of the carb will be wasted, while with the E88 manifold and "4 screw" SU's the manifold water passages will be blocked. I don't know if there would be a problem with leakage! I am leaving in the morning to take a long weekend away from the garage and the computer for the independence day holiday but will try to remember to take a closer look when I get back! Have fun!

So could I!! Have fun!

The speedometer gets a reading at the transmission, so changing the relationship of the transmission output rotations/wheel rotations causes the guage to read inaccurately. So any change to diff ratio or tire size may result in the speedometer to be incorrect. Yes the change will be by percentage but small tire size changes will not make much of a difference. If you go to http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ and input your Z trans type, diff ratio and tire size you can use the resulting interactive graph to determine what your speed should be at a given RPM. Then compare to your actual results, of course this assumes your tachometer is correct! Have fun!

zedhead260, 2manyZs is right a 195/70 will have a narrower tread than a 195/50. 195 is not the tread width but is the widest point of the tire bulge when mounted on a particular rim size. If you look at a tire site they will tell you tread width, tire size, rim size used for measurement, overall diameter, etc. peterpit, I had 14x6 wheels on my Z and ran several combinations. I would say the 205/60 looked like the best fit on the wheel but if you are looking for better tire performance a 195/60 would probably fit better. I wouldn't go with 50 series on that rim unless you car is lowered because you will have a big gap between the tire and the wheel well. aapiss, If I remember correctly the stock wheel size in '72 was 5" and the tires where 175R14, I believe this was before they used aspect ratios on tire designation but I think it works out to be close to 75 series. Hope it makes sense and helps!

I know the V8 guys use the ZX tanks because they hold more gas! They can be made to work but I don't know how it is done. I bet there are novels on this at www.hybridz.org. If you don't find any info I can ask a local guy at the next Z onwers of No. Cal. meeting. He is building a '73 240z with V8 from IROC Camero and I know he is planning to use a ZX tank but he is not on line! Hope it helps!

wilby34, If the same force is needed to shift when the car is on or off it sounds like the problem is either with the shifter linkage or the part of the shifter that is internal to the tranmission. The clutch and syncros don't come in to play when the car isn't running. To be honest I cannot think of anything that could happen to the stock shifter that would cause a problem like that unless someone has replaced the plastic bushings with metal that was too tight a fit or has expanded or something. You said that your car has a short throw shifter. If the shifter has simply been cut than my previous comments apply. If it is like the more complicated short throw shifter in the MSA catalog than there is a better chance the problem is external to the trans. As a rule of thumb you always start with the simple cheap stuff first. I would take the console off and remove the shift boots and take a look at the shifter mechanism first hand. You may need to take it appart and clean it, lube it up, and reassemble. If that doesn't help check the clutch master cylinder for fluid and make sure the slave cylinder is operating smoothly. After, that you might need to pull the trans and open it up, something I have yet to do! Hope it helps! ***** dhayes5, You are kinda starting a different direction on this thread so I'll try to be brief, not a strong suit of mine. All the '72 - '83 4-spd & 5-spd transmissions (I don't know about the T-5) use the same type of shifter. I have 5, not including the one in my car, that I have accumulated over the years and they are all a little different. I have yet to figure out any pattern regarding which came from which year cars. Some appear very straight, some are curved and some are obviously modified but no two of the ones I have are the same! Have fun!

I don't know Oregon very well but Salem, Oregon is the Z SU capital of the world!!! See www.ztherapy.com! Hope it helps! Have fun!

Sounds like you might already have a good idea what it is. The "spook" is particular front airdam that BRE made that bolts onto the bottom of the front valance. I think you will find the car does drive better at 70+ speeds with it or any airdam installed!

I would say that a good running Z is quite reliable and has a lot of performance potential, that's why I have kept mine for the last 15 years. Many use them as daily drivers although they are not equiped with all the modern creature comforts of a modern car. But the big thing to remember is they are 20 to 30 years old and can easily cost a few thousand dollars to get even the best looking car to the point of reliability. Being an old car the key danger area is rust, there are many posts on this site that discuss the specific places to watch out for -under the battery tray, front frame rails, rear hatch sill, door threshold, etc. Another week point is the dash, center console, and interior they are usually cracked up pretty bad or covered in some way. Also, many of the plastic interior pieces can be expensive, hard to find, and difficult to keep in good condition. Then find one that runs good and drives well and you are on your way to being hooked! Have fun!

And not only is it a V8, it looks to be supercharged as well. This thing is/was one fast 240Z. That clip is at least a year and a half old but it is still an awesome sight. Have fun!

Halz, Sorry, I could not find the VIN# decoding information. I know I have it or have seen it somewhere on the web recently. I know the VIN# does not say much, other than coupe or 2+2 but cannot be sure if it has a different code for manual or automatic. If you provide the VIN# I could compare it since I have a '70, '71, '72, & '73 240 close by (not all mine!) Also, the fact that your 240 is a '72 means that you will be able to fit the newer style trans (post-'71) in either 4-spd or 5-spd without having to worry about cutting the trans tunnel or console. That is assuming that Datsun used the same trans tunnel hole and console for the automatic and manual cars. Have fun!

Here is the copy of a post from the IZCC regarding the Civic blower motor upgrade. Since I have not attempted the swap I will be just a messenger on this one and give credit where it is due. ********** "Since my post about 240Z A/C, many people have contacted me about the details of my A/C system, especially the blower motor. I am using a blower motor / cage from an '88 Civic hatchback. It is a drop-in replacement! Three screws, two wires, and you're done. No cutting, no drilling. The holes on the backing plate are a little bigger compared to the 240Z, which I compensated for with rubber washers from a hardware store. The Honda blower motor is cosmetically different - satin black finish mounting plate, and bare metal motor housing. Could be painted flat black to look stock. At the junkyard, I found several different late '80's and early '90's Hondas that use the same motor, but I just happened to pull one from an '88 Civic Hatchback. You can also get the fan resistor from the Civic if your's is shot. The 280Z 160W blower motor is also an upgrade for the 240 blower, if and only if you swap the cages. The Civic blower motor / cage is favorable because it fits perfect, and performs a little better than the 280Z motor. Much better than the 240 blower. Sean 73 240Z Tucson, AZ" ********** Hope this helps!

I don't know if you have to cut any material off the trans tunnel but you will need to cut a hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. You will need a clutch peddle, smaller brake peddle, clutch master cylinder, hard lines for clutch, and clutch slave cylinder. Oh, and a manual transmission! What year is the car, because you may need to do some modifications if it is an early 240, or was that only for US spec. Just a few things off the top of my head. Have fun!

Yup, talking about the interior fan blower motor but you could try to use it as a forced induction system!

I have a write up on my home computer, at work now. If I remember correctly the benefit is more air flow, faster fan speed I think. It sounds like almost a direct bolt up with maybe a minor wire modification. I happen to have a '90 Civic and the blower motor does look the same from the outside! I'll try to find the document I have and post it! Have fun!

Just curious, is the peddle box the same in an auto and a stick? Obviously, I have never seen the interior on an automatic 240Z. My friend has one as a parts car but he already removed and trashed the peddle box. I can tell the firewall is the same you just need to punch out and add the clutch master cylinder. Thanks!

Z_pyro, Sorry it is not working out! Obviously we would all like to see you in that Z! But it might be best for you to take a break from it and after driving the Caprice you will find you way back to it or another Z. Regarding the DMV paying $2k, I don't think that is going to happen. I think at most they will pay $500, but I think the car has to be registered first. How much would you sell the car for? I don't need another one but that didn't stop me last time. I also know some other people who might be interested in it for the right price. Any pictures?

I used to have a couple of each laying around the garage but now I only have a R200 with both my R180s being in cars. It is easy to tell them appart when they are side by side but not so easy if you don't have the other for reference. The R200s rear pumpkin is almost round, or square with rounded corners, while the R180 is more narrow and therefor rectangular with rounded corner. Also the rear mount bolts that attach to the mustache bar are much thicker and the heavier R200. I'll try to take a look and find something more distinguishable this week.

Funny, I had a very similar experience with my 280Z. Once that motor and trans are gone the front gets very light, especial with jack stands under the rear frame rails. I meant to take a picture with the hood down and me "lifting" the front, but there was just to much Z crap in the garage to get a good picture! Yes, lots of the black widow spiders around here too! They don't seem to be bothered much when sprayed with carb cleaner either!

I know this is a "Z" site, but I, and I am sure others, would love to see some pics of these other 240 vehicles! Interesting conversation!

Thanks for the info on the diff axles. I changed the diff in my 240 from a 3.7 R200 back to a 3.54 R180 that has the same axle setup you described. I pulled it out of my 260Z but I figure it probably originally came from a 280ZX. Hard to tell what is original after almost 30 years. Speaking of your ZX getting lighter, my 260Z probably weighs 500lbs now. I hated to do it but the unibody was wasted! Have fun!