Royce

It looks pretty ugly when I cut and past it here so I also have attached the info in a word document. Here it is for those of you who want more of a challenge... Engine L24 L26 L28&L28e L28e L28et L28et L28et L24e Head E31/E88 E88 N42/N47/P79 P79 P90 P90 P90A N47 Cam Mark A C A F B J M E Date all all <8/81 9/81> AT<7/82 MT<7/82 8/82> all Part # 13001- E4126 N3626 E4126 P7980 P3026 P9580 P9980 S6280 Intake duration 248 256 248 240 240 240 240 240 Exhaust duration 248 256 248 248 248 240 240 240 Lobe centers 109 109 109 109 109 110 109 106 Cam lift intake 7.35 7 7.35 7 7 7 6.75 7 Cam lift exhaust 7.35 7.35 7.35 7.35 7.35 7 6.7 7 I did not compile this data and have not verified it to be true. I do believe it to be from a reliable source. Oh yeah, the cam mark is indicated by a letter etched/stamped on the rear surface of the rear bearing journal of the camshaft. Have fun!

The cams are very much the same for 240Z - 280Z but are not marked very clearly. I have a chart someplace and will try to find it. In the mean time I believe the Nissan cams are designated by a single letter stamped on the front end. If it is an aftermarket cam I would think it would be more clearly marked. If I can find the tech sheet I will post.

It is not the transmission. 2manyZ's is right you it has to do with the ignition. They are all a little different so first you would have to identify the tach lead from the particular type of ignition that you have. You won't be able to get the the stock 240Z tach to work with an electronic ignition signal. From what I have read even the 260Z tach which is for electronic ignition won't work with aftermarket or later Z or ZX electronic ignition systems. What is commonly done is to take apart the 240Z tach and put 280Z tach guts into the 240Z tach housing, so you can use the same gauge face with the higher redline, and then put it back in. I don't have the technical specifications readily available but I have a writeup somewhere and will look for it and post when I can. I sold one 280Z tach for this purpose a long time ago. I just got another one that I am going to hang onto for just this reason.

The SAE20 oil is listed in the Motorsport Auto (MSA) catalog. Gear oil, no way! ATF can be used and was supposed to be the hot ticket to improve throttle response back in the day. I have never tested with this. I honestly don't remember what I used last, I think it was a 20 weight sewing machine oil, light hydrolic jack oil, or a 30 weight engine oil. I am going to try the MSA SAE20 oil when I change it next.

Hey Makenai V8Z, After this weekend I will have a couple good hatches laying around but I am not sure it would be worth it for you ($$$) to pay for shipping one. I am in Northern California. Orangevale is near Sacramento. Do you need glass too, I don't think I have any of the early verticle defroster windshields that are any good. I am not sure what the exterior plastic pieces are thay you refer to. I am thinking you are talking about the three metal dark grey (or whatever they have been painted) parts that surround the tail lights and go behind the license plate? Anyway, if that is the pieces you are looking for I don't have that. I'll have to check on the license plate light assembly. I do know a couple other guys in town that have 240z parts cars and could check with them regarding stuff I don't have if you are interested. Email me directly at royce_miller@yahoo.com for more info.

If you are not using the choke that would do it. If you are using the choke I agree that this is most likely either a choke cable issue or an adjustment issue, ex. one carb may be getting more fuel than the other when the choke is used. Check with the engine not running. Take the air cleaner off and have someone actuate the choke inside the car while you watch the action at the carbs. The choke should pull down the fuel nozzels at the bottom of the carbs equally and when the choke is turned off should return both fuel nozzels upward to the bottom of the adjustment wheel. This may also be a general engine tune issue (carb setting, points, timing, plugs, etc.) Another common problem I have had with the choke is that one carb fuel nozzel would stick when the choke is released so I would have to reach under the carb and push the fuel nossel back up into place. However, when this happens you will know because the car will run very ruff even after being warming up, if it runs at all.

Glad I could share some useful info. Let me know if you don't find what you need, I've got a few Z body parts I wouldn't mind selling. What part of California 'ya from and what is the production date on your car? I tell you what, it's a lot warming taking parts off a car in my garage than out at the bone yard! Burrr!

I know that Motorsport Auto (MSA) lists them in their catalog. If you are not familiar with MSA you should get there catalog. I have been contemplating the clear lens they carry for the front parking lights/turn signals. Their web site is listed in the links section of this website.

Some parts yes, some parts no, and some parts maybe. It really depends on the individual part and how original you want to be. For the most part the '70-'78 Z cars are very similar. Most of the differences are design changes to fix a particular problem area, add some "modern" conviences or for government regulations, ex. bumpers and smog equipement. The fenders themselves are the same from 70-78 as far as I can tell. I am pretty sure I verified this on the handy microfiche CD. Of course early Zs fenders will have holes in them from the Datsun emblem. Then take the headlight buckets as another example, early 240s had fiberglass and later, 73 if I remeber correctly, they went to metal which they remained until '78. However, they are interchangeable I have found. Also, the headlight assembly is physically the same but the wire that the bulb plugs into has a different connector at the other end where it plugs into the wire harness. The rear deck is kinda the same deal. It is mostly the same but the early 240s had a single lift at a really bad location. Datsun changed this with the later 240s and added a second lift. I believe that stayed pretty much the same through the 280s. With the correct bits and a little welding you can make it work either way. And the glass in the early cars had verticle defroster lines and later they went to horizontal lines. I am not sure about the doors! They appear to be the same but I believe just the internal mechanism for the lock and window actuators is different. I believe all the hoods are the same with the exception of the later 280Z that had the vents cut in them. But they are interchangeable without any other modification. Let me know if you have any specific parts you want to check because after this weekend I will have a 240, 260, and 280 around for comparison. Questions or corrections welcomed! Have fun,

If you use the R200 diff you will probably need a different drive shaft. For sure the 240 one will not work because the nose of the R200 is a different length than the R180 and the same drive shaft cannot be used for both. I don't know if the ZX drive shaft will work but I do know that a 280Z driveshaft from a coupe (not 2+2) with a R200 will work. Frankly, I think the R200 is overkill and it is much heavier, I plan to change back. I would not use it, unless maybe because it has a better rartio (ie: 3.9 or 4.1). You can put the ZX motor and trans in with your stock rear and try it out first. You have a good plan and that combination has been tried and true. Sure the DGV downdraft carbs may not be the best but use what you have first then you can always change it later. You will also need the ignition module from the 280ZX so you can use its electronic distributor. See a good write-up on the Z-ZX transplants at: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Hope it helps! Have fun!

I would check to make sure everything is tight first, front diff mount, diff/mustache bar mounts, and mustache bar/frame mounts. I though I was experiencing the classic Z diff area knock once and it turned out to be a loose nut where the diff mounts to the mustache bar. I didn't figure this out until my mustache bar broke just around the bolt! Although I don't know if it is the front diff mount in your case I have been running a solid front diff mount for 10 years. I bought it from Arizona Z car for $30+ dollars and can say you do hear a little more drive line noise but it is not enough to bother me ( and I don't even have a working stereo in my car). Of course I am the type that doesn't mind having to listen to the motor either! I drive on the left, wrong, side although my wife says I drive from what ever seat I am sitting in! Have fun!

What do you mean by a shaved flywheel, 22 lbs. sounds like the weight of a stock flywheel? Did the shave just clean up the flywheel surface like turning a brake rotor? I am very interested in this subject and would think subracting 12 lbs. from the flywheel would make a very noticable difference. I also have a hard time justifying doing it but I am going to be changing my trans one of these days and thought it might be a good idea to do then. Anyone have any luck lightening a stock flywheel? I would think it would have to be done by a pro since it is a cast piece. But I have a couple flywheels laying around and might let the local performance machine shop take a shot at it. Anyone else!?

Yes, the 280 drive shafts are longer but it is not necessarily because of the different style transmissions. I didn't experience any vibration in the drive line and I was driving like a maniac back in those days. I think the splines on the drive shaft and trans are long enough that you still have plenty of contact. I know we are going in a different direction but, actually there is more to the R200 swap than that. First, I would like to say that I don't think the R200 swap is a good idea for the average Z -car. I did mine a long time ago because I didn't know any better. I wanted to change diff ratios and thought my R180 was going bad but it was a combination of diff mounts and mustache mounts that where the problem. I wish we had this type of technical communication back then, could have saved me lots of time and money. The R200 is far more robust than the R180 but it comes at the price of weight. I could tell the difference when I changed mine. I think it is really only necessary if you have a V8 or tweaked turbo motor with 300+ HP. I have a R180 that I plan on putting back into my car. When I changed mine I had a 280Z parts car that I could use for parts, which made it very easy. I was told the same mustache bar can be used if you just turn it around. While that may be true the R200 mustache bar is beefier and I suggest using it. Also, the R180 mustache bar would need to be modified to mount the R200 which has larger mounting bolts. Second, yes you would have to change the lower crossmember that connects the suspension control arms behind the diff to make room for the larger R200. This is when I changed to the 280Z drive shaft because the R200 and R180 diffs are different lengths. You cannot use the original drive shaft anymore here. Also, the strap that holds down the front end of the diff may not work. I have heard of people getting it to work by cutting half an inch off the bolts that mount the front of the diff and installing them upside down. If you don't use the strap you will tear the front diff mount into two the first time you touch the gas peddle. I just installed a solid front diff mount and was done with it. Also, half shafts may be an issue, I have heard different stories on this. I had the 280Z R200 half shafts laying around so I used them. I still have my 240Z ones and will compare them with a 280Z that I am going to be taking apart in a couple weeks. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions or corrections.

Well I can see why people suggest that. The transmissions are different lenghts, the new type are shorter. But when I did the swap there was still plenty enough drive shaft to work with and I drove the car daily for years without any problems because of the difference and I beat on my car pretty hard back then. And since GreenZ also is going from early Z 4-speed to later 5-speed it should be the same experience. The only thing I am not sure about is that maybe the later 4-speed & later 5-speeds are different lengths. I will be taking apart two parts cars in a couple weeks, one with later 4-speed and one with later 5-speed. I will have to compare the difference and report back. Mileage may vary! Have fun!

One more small detail... I used a later style rubber shift boot and the matching frame to properly seal the trans tunnel. The original early 240 style would no longer work after grinding the trans tunnel hole. It was a bolt-on (screws actually) modification. Glad to share the info! Have fun!

Okay, wait just a minute!!! I have a series II 240 that had an early style trans. I agree that the early trans are junk and that the later style are stronger. But when I changed to a Z 5-speed all I needed to do was grind out the shifter hole in the trans tunnel and notch the console. I used my stock clutch/flywheel, throwout bearing & sleve, and clutch slave cylinder. You should be able to use a late style trans ('72 -'83 4 or 5 speed) without anything but the modifications I mentioned. When I later changed to a L28 no drive line modifications where needed either! If you change to a R200 diff then you will need a different drive shaft, amongst other things, and potentially a different yoke or diff flange to make it work. I personally think the Z 5-speeds are a waste of time. I would use either a later Z 4-speed or go to a ZX 5-speed. The Z 5-speed just has to big of a gap between 2nd & 3rd gear (most used on track or autocross.) I am currently saving my pennies for a ZX 5-speed. That's my thoughts! Mileage may vary!

I believe what you are looking for is the fiberglass BRE spook(SP?) style air dam which mounts without taking off the valance. They have them in the Motorsport Auto (MSA) catalog for $100 with or without ducts. Although, I think I have seen some elsewhere that are even more subtle than the spook style. I have to dig a little and see what I can find.

Sorry, I don't know about the side mount. But when I was at Rebello Racing they had these slick stands that were very low and had four casters, kind of a engine kreeper if you will. I believe it used the lower engine mounts at the back and alt. and smog pump side mounts on the block at the front. I also believe it whoud allow for the flywheel to be mounted while on the stand. Although at one point I stored a L6 with head and FI on a conventional type for several years without a problem, I thought about checking this out because of how long and heavy the L6 looks on a conventional type. You might want to check with some Z-engine builders to see what they are useing around the shop and ask them where they get them. Hope it helps!

The size of the engine bay is similar and there are lots of people putting V8s in 280ZX cars as well as Z's. See www.hybridz.org lots of talk regarding V-8 Z & ZX's. Also, I know one nice 280ZX V-8 is owned by Ross Corrigan of Canada. He has a web site with tech articles and pictures at http://home.istar.ca/~zxv/index.shtml and I believe he can be reached by email at 280zx@home.com. I don't know him personally but he is a frequent contributor to the internet Z-club mail list and has a Z-ZX parts distributing business. I am sure he would be happy to get you started in the V-8 direction. Have fun!

They look like 70's vintage but does anyone know about the claim that these are a "rare factory option?" I am thinking more like they were a common dealer add on!

I had the exact same problem with my drivers side headlight and it was the fuse holders being a little loose. I took out the fuse and bent them in just a touch and next time I tried it my light worked great. Of course yours may be a little different but I would give this a try before you spend money on any new test equipement. Let us know how it turns out. Have fun!

So far I like it better than the pictures I have seen of the 350Z. Although, when the first new Z passes me on the highway I may change my opinion. Speaking of new cars, just saw a new T-Bird on the road.(sorry I know this is not Z related) Didn't like it as much as in pictures.

You do very good work! I would post some pictures of mine but now I am going to have to wait a few months until people forget about this one! Great looking Z, love the color!!!

Ooooohh! MSA is Motorsport Auto. I have ordered the catalog! Thanks,

I hear about MSA all the time but I am unable to find a parts distributor by that name! How do I get in touch with MSA or do they have a web site? Thanks!