Royce

My car weighs about 2400lbs (+/- 20) with a full tank of gas and No driver. I have heard people talk about the early series I 240Z's being a little lighter but I think it is very slight and mostly a myth. I think all the 240s are going to be pretty close. The '73 has larger front bumper mounts but not much more that would make it heavier. I didn't mean to imply the early US 240Zs weighed significantly less than the later US 240Zs. The US 240Z is significantly lighter than US 260Z (late model) & US 280Z. This is because of the larger bumpers, larger radiator support/radiator, heavier exhaust, larger diff, door internals, and many smaller things. Probably good for 300+ lbs!?

Oops, just read my post. The first line should read that in the US the '72 is considered by many to be the best out of the box. I didn't mean to imply that the US '72 was best 240Z around the world, I cannot speak for 240Z's in other parts of the world. Sorry!

For clubs you have ZONC, Z owners of North California, but from what I can tell us Sacramento locals are the only ones having monthly meetings. There is also zdriver.com which is very active and I think centralized in the South bay area. I went with Revolution wheels on my Z, see my photo link, because they reminded me of the older period American muscle car wheels and were not as common as the minilite style 8 spoke wheels. I am a bay area native and grew up in Redwood City. I also am a closet Mustang fan. I still miss my fathers black '65 GT conv.(4-spd, black top with red pony interior) and his '67 Shelby Mustang GT500. He sold them both before the American muscle cars started going up! Isn't your car a '65 (judging by the louvers in the rear quarter windows) or does that only appy to the Shelby GT350R cars!? Welcome to the club!

I think from the factory the US market '72 is considered by many to be the best 240Z. But at this point many have integrated the improvements into the other years. So by this time there probably isn't as much of a difference but it helps to know what to look for. Reason being that '70 - '71 had a weaker transmission design and the diff mount location caused more stress on the half shaft joints. There were other things (like reclining seats, better rear window defroster, etc.) but those are the big ones. The '73 has the same stronger trans and diff location (moved back about 1") as the '72 but the cylinder head and carbs were redesigned to try to met tougher smog standards. Most '73 these days have been converted from the problematic '73 flat top carbs to the earlier '70 - '72 round top SU style carbs or the weber DGV downdraft carbs. I have seen some cars still running fine with the flat tops but it is harder to find help and parts for them. They probably due better in the California climate than somewhere else were there are more extreme seasonal changes. The Weber DGV's aren't bad either but again harder to find support from the Z community if you have problems. The 240Z is very popular because- it is the first design, it is physically lighter, in the US it has less smog so power is equal if not a little better. Also, the US cars had smaller bumpers which some people prefer to the larger bumpers of the later cars. The 260 & 280's do have some improvements to interior and such that make it a little more comforatable car. I like the 240 because it is simple and raw! I remember driving my sisters '84 300ZX Turbo 50th Anniversary car and thinking what a boat it was. Even with it's adjustable suspension turned all the way stiff. Hope that helps!

I had mentioned pulling the motor and installing the motor and trans together. When I have done this it was because I had the motor out. When installing it by myself had a problem getting the motor and trans lined up. It is a lot of extra work if you only have the trans out. But I would still do this before using the long bolt idea. It is best easy to do if you have a load-leveling device for your engine hoist. -Drain fluids from engine, radiator and trans. -Disconnect fuel, water and vacuum hoses. -Disconnect ignition & alternator wires, throttle linkage and choke cables. -Remove hood. With hood open go to one side and remove bottom bolt and loosen top bolt (where hood is attached to the hinge. Then on other side with hood resting on your shoulder remove bottom bolt and loosen top bolt. Now you can slowly let hood come down (make sure it doesn't go down onto a fender). Then remove the two bolts and remove hood. When you put it all back together don't tighten the bolts with it open. You need to close it and push down on the center at the front to make sure you have proper alignment. -Remove radiator. -Jack up the rear of the car and put on stands. -Attach the engine hoist to the engine and lift enough to remove slack in chain/straps. -Undo motor mounts and trans mount bolts. -Adjust the load leveler so that the tranny starts coming down. You need to work the height of the engine hoist and load lever until you get a good angle to start moving the hoist forward until you can get them both out. I just wanted to give an idea what is involved. As with any procedure it will take longer the first time but will get easier with practice. But hopefully you won’t need a lot of practice! Hope it helps!

Yes, I think the N42 is a good replacement choice if for no other reason then because you can find one more easily and probably less expensive than an E31. The larger valves is a nice bonus, but I wouldn't change heads just for the larger vavles unless you had another good reason to change. Any of the E31, E88, or N42 heads look even better on a L28 with flat top pistons!

Howdy, It's pretty much all been said, but how close are you getting the trans in??? Usually, things go good until the last inch or so. Sounds like you might be that close since you are considering the long bolt idea. Once you get to this point it should just be a matter of fine tuning the alignment and getting the input shaft groves to match the clutch groves. Remember that the engine is supported by the trans mounts and will be saging toward the rear more than otherwise without the trans installed. Supporting the engine like Zmefly or 2manyZ is a great idea and will help you line up the trans but remember the trans will need to point slightly downward during install. If you are getting that close make sure the gearbox is in gear, then try to install, check your clearance top to bottom and side to side. If all gaps are equal than should just need to turn the trans output shaft a little. I have had this problem when installing a trans and a better alternative to the long bolt technique is to take off the hood, remove the engine and install them together. I know you are looking for a quick solution but I would favor a good working solution to a fast gamble. Problem is if you pull the motor you will probably think of many other things you would like to do to it while it is out.

I have seen lots of good exhaust tips in various sizes in the Jegs catalog. www.jegs.com

No, the 280ZX is not a classic Z car. But it is a classic ZX car! I didn't care much for the ZX when I first got my 240Z but have learned to like them more and more as the time goes by. They do have good running gear, but they are a little heavy!

Well the fact that you are in Finland certainly makes what I know almost useless. Also, much of the information I have has been gathered from word of mouth. But here goes... Each head has its good and bad but they could all be made relatively equal with a little machine work. In the US... 240Z E31, E88 260Z E88 280Z '75- '76 N42, '77 - '78 N47 280ZX '79 N47, '80 - '83 P79, ??-'82 P90(Turbo), P90A('83 Turbo) E88 urban legend???- Supposedly there were two E88 heads available for 240Z. If I remember the story correctly the early cast E88 heads had the same combustion chamber as the E31 and was distinguished by a sloppy casting number and the later E88 head had a lower compression combustion chamber design and the casting number was more uniform looking. I have not verified this or seen it in any books but have heard this "rumor" in many different Z circles. For a 240 or 260Z the E88 is often not held in high regard. This is because the all of 240Z - 280ZX heads will bolt on to any L6 and can be used with the Hitachi SU, round top carb intake. Also, most L6 heads share the same square exhaust ports so that manifolds or headers are compatible. But I don't think you should count out the E88 yet. The E31 has about .5 higher compression ratio and a better combustion chamber design. This doesn't mean a lot on the street but in race classes that limits head work this is the only advantage you can have. The N42 has the same chamber design as the E88, same compression ratio as E88 but larger valves, sorry don't have specifics. Also, I believe the N42 has hardened valve seats and guides, but cannot remember this for sure either. The N47 is the same but has round exhaust ports. The P79 has a significantly larger combustion chamber, to low of a compression ratio for even a turbo when mounted on a 240Z - 280Z block, but has a better combustion chamber design. I believe the valves on the intake, exhaust or both are a little larger than previous heads. Like the N47, the P79 has round exhaust ports. The P90 has the same chamber size and design as the P79 but has square exhaust ports. The P90A is the same as the P90 with the exception being that it has hydraulic valve lifters instead of mechanical. Many have shaved the P90 to make it work on the first generation Z blocks. But this requires shimming the cam towers, which others would rather avoid. And if you can find a P90A all the better because your valve train will be quieter, however, replacement lifters may be a challenge to find. Other L6 applications - there are also other heads for other markets and other Datsun/Nissan cars. For example I have heard of E88 with FI mount points. And P79 heads with square exhaust ports from a Maxima. Okay, so the bottom line is that if you shave a little off the E88 and install larger valves it may be just as good as any of the other heads. It really just depends on how you are going to use the car and if you are going to be under any rules restrictions. I am sure they could all benefit from some polishing and porting as well. I am sorry if this information does not apply to your part of the world. I would be very interested to hear what was available in other markets! I have several E88's, P79s, and a P90 and hope to do some comparisions one of these days. I have a friend that may be rebuilding a E31 and N42 so would be interesting to post some findings. Corrections, comments, and questions are welcomed!!! Have fun! :classic:

They look like polished Jag SU's to me! Very nice!!! But we'll have to wait and see what That Ozzy Guy says. When you do reply can you include what size they are (Ex. 1 3/4" or 2")? Just curious!!!

Lister has been a British chassis builder since at least the 1950's. There are several old front engine Listers that race in vintage racing. Even back then they were tube chassis, lightweight bodies with large engines. Also, they were good looking and fast. The vintage cars seem to mostly be Jag straight sixes and Chevy V8's. I hadn't heard of them much until they rejoined european racing a few years back. Have fun!

You really must match the carbs to the engine! If you put big carbs on a stock motor you may see less perfromance! I doubt you could get to 200HP just by changing carbs. You will probably need higher compression and some head work to get there. You may want to talk to Ztherapy in WA (ztherapy.com) and Rebello Racing in Pacheco CA, they both have different Z Hitachi SU setups that will work for 200HP motor! Actually, now that I think of it Rebello gets close to 200HP out of it SCCA ITS spec L24 motor with stock Z SU style carbs. I am not sure if they can raise the compression but I know they do a fair amount of head work. Hope it helps!

Bummer, I was hoping it was a '71 model center console. Maybe from a 240 built after 09/71 which would be a '72 - '73 model year console.

Howdy, I learned using the Nissan factory service manual! Now days you can go to www.ztherapy.com order one of their SU videos and for less than the cost of a factory service manual you will be an expert! Of course you should probably get a service manual too as it covers lots more than just the carbs! I usually check my Hayes manual, then Chilton manual, then Nissan manual. Then have a few beers, play some darts (you have to give some time to digest all that info) then go work on the car!

Howdy, I have seen drawings of a fabricated mount. I tried to find them but came up empty. Pete Paraska send out once on a different site. His setup replaced the front diff mount insulator and the strap that goes over the top of the diff but maintains some quiet operation by using a GM trans mount. The rubber mount actually goes over the diff. I couldn't find by searching here. Send pparaska a private message and asking him to submit it. Or check www.hybridz.com for more info. When I put an R200 in my 240 I replaced the front mount and strap with a sold steel mount from Arizona Zcar. It does transmit some noise into the cabin but it isn't too bad, and I only have the stock radio in my car. Of course I don't drive my Z everday and would rather listen to the all the noises of the car than the radio when in it! Hope it helps!

Sounds like it may be from an earlier source. I haven't heard of this stamp being used on a Nissan cam but wasn't the Nissan E-30 head on the Fairlady Z or some other 2.0 liter L6 application? Sorry, wasn't able to find more specifics in my stuff. Happy Holidays!!!

I am thinking aftermarket alarm setup or something. I have never seen that on any of the Z's I have looked at! Have someone else press it first!

There is a UK wheel company called Minilite that makes wheels, this style started in the either the late '50s or early to mid '60s. But like many other popular sytles there are several companies that make clone "minilite" style wheels! Like Panasport for example! I think the number of spokes on a minilite may be different depending on the diameter of the wheel! For example the 10" diameter wheel for an Austin Mini Cooper might have less spokes than the 15" diameter wheel for a Jaguar. Also, if it is not on the front of the rim the name of the company is probably cast in the back of the wheel. Take one off and have a look! Happy Holidays!

Thanks for the info Bonnie! I asked for those things because it would save me from putting together an even longer post! With a '72 240Z a 5-speed would be a direct bolt-in replacement. The only thing to worry about is the throw-out bearing collar. The trick is to use the collar that matches the clutch type in your car. So if you swap trans without installing a new clutch than use your old throw-out bearing collar. For the US market there were two 5-speed transmissions offered in non-Turbo cars, the early 5-spd in '77 280Z - '79 280ZX and the later 5-spd in '80 - '83 280ZX. Really there were three but I am not going there now. The "early" type would not change your 1st - 4th gears much and 5th would drop your freeway revs around 500 RPM. Not a big difference but if you do a lot of freeway driving or if you change to smaller profile tires it can save you some $$$ on gas. The later style 5-spd may make your car a little slower off the line because it has a slightly numerically higher gear but the gears are closer 2-4 and 5th will drop your highway revs closer to 1000RPM. It is best to look at trans, diff, and tire height together when making changes in this area. This is why I asked what size tires you have. If you go from stock 175R14 tires to 195/55R14 is similar to changing your diff from a stock 3.36 ratio to 3.7. Either may make your car a little quicker off the line but will cause your revs to be higher when you cruise down the freeway. I hope it makes sense! Questions are welcome! Happy Holidays!

Howdy, Hmmm... drop the diff or take off the rear suspension cross memeber. Tuff call! I would be tempted to disconnect the rear suspension cross memeber before I would want to drop the diff. I would think then you would have full access to the fill/drain plugs on the back of the diff. However if you are going to swap diffs then that won't help! Also, I always loosen the fill plug before the drain plug. That way if I am not able to get the drain plug out I can still lower the car and drive it until I beg/borrow or steal the correct tools! Regarding the speedo gear, are you sure it was changed with the diff? Chances are it is probably the original one that came in whatever trans you have. Make sure you count the teeth on the old one before you go looking for a new one. Of course if the tire height has been changed, it takes a little more creativity to calculate which speedo gear to use to get the most accurate speedo. HO HO HO!!!

Bonnie, What year is your 240Z and what size tires do you have on it?

There are two things that distinguish the motor. First is its model number and second its casting number. The model number is on the driver’s right, rear side of the block and is the beginning of the engine serial number (ex. L28-XXXXXX). The model numbers follow the displacement- L28 is the approx. 2800cc motor for the 280Z & 280ZX, L26 is approx. 2600cc for the 260Z, etc... The casting number is on the driver’s right side of the engine near the bottom just behind the motor mount. The key here is with respect to the L28. There were two different cast L28 blocks available by Datsun/Nissan. The N42 in the 280Z & '79 280ZX and the later F54 in the '80-'83 280ZX. The three important things to remember is that either block will bolt to any "L" series motor head (but may have different compression ratios), the F54 is considered to be stronger due extra strengthening between the cylinders, and the non-Turbo motors had flattop pistons that when used with early '70-'78 Z cylinder head can produce compression ratios of 9.5+. Higher compression ratio engines are much more productive (can make more power) with wilder cams and larger valves. Yours may very well be a N42 block, which isn't a problem but the F54 is often preferred. Regarding carbs, a set of SU's in good condition can be very easy to dial in. But you will need to take some time and learn how to do it and what problems to look for. Check out www.ztherapy.com, they rebuild the Z SU's and sell very detailed instructional videos that will give you the knowledge you seek! Hope it makes sense! Have fun!

I have a Z friend that has a '73 with flattops that runs well. I don't remember if it has all the smog stuff or not. But I think if they work then leave them alone. Some environments will bring out the worst in them while others will not trouble them as much. I am talking about things like ambient temperature, altitude and driving patterns, etc. One of the big problems with the flattops is finding knowledge and parts. Most people change them since the roundtop SU switch is so cheap and easy. Although, I have seen many more Z's in the wrecking yards with flatops than SU's these days! Happy holidays!

Well, I have never tried to put them on but they come off quite easily so they "shouldn't" be too hard to install (famous last words!) I have several good used sets around as well and could take a look if you still need them. I would be willing to provide them as a donation toward site maintenance. Thanks for keeping this site up! Happy Holidays!