Royce

Nigel, Not quite sure what your question is. In the US, I believe the first Z that came with hardened value seats and guides was the '75 280Z with the N42 head. I know many people have used '75 and newer heads or complete motors in older Z cars with good success. Are you concerned about running an unleaded motor on leaded gas, doesn't AU still have leaded fuels!? I think the only damage in running leaded gas in an unleaded motor is that if it has a catalytic converter it may cause the converter to wear out quickly. But I don't think cars in your area would be likely to run a catalytic converter. The main reason I had to have my motor rebuilt back in '89 was because of the valve seat wear and damage done to the head and pistons that resulted from it. Most likely this was due to time and a heavy right foot but also may be the result of the previous owner and myself not regularly using a lead substitue. I had the builder put in hardened valve seats and guides and have been running unleaded ever since. If you swap engines or fix your existing engine, with the age of these cars, either way is going to take some work and cost some money. Working with the engine you have may be less expensive than starting with an engine of unkown condition. I would select the head/engine you want to run and then go from there. Whether that be a L24, L26, L28, or L28T is up to you. Hope it helps!

What is the build date of your '72 240Z with flat top carbs? I am just curious if it is a '73 model car registered as a '72. Shouldn't be too much trouble to swich, beandip is correct you will want the air cleaner that goes with the early carbs. Have fun!

I agree that it would be best just to find a turbo motor. However if one is not available then to make a NA motor into a turbo you would need lower compression pistons, rings for those pistons, turbo, turbo plumming, and turbo electronics. I know there are a few goodies that are different in the fuel injection, like the AFM, etc. Sorry to be so general but hope it gives you some ideas. Have fun!

I agree! There will not be an easier time to change the hoses on the tank than now. You have to drop the tank to change them so why do it twice!? Besides there is a good chance they are 10-30 years old and will probably be damaged when you disconnect them to remove the tank. If they are original type hoses it is difficult to inspect them since they have a cloth braiding on them. If you don't use factory replacements be sure to use a hose suitable for fuel, NOT heater hose. Have fun!

Neither of the sources provided any other details. I would be happy to check my Haynes Z manual tonight, it might have that type of info. The only reason I can think of for why the early and later 280Zs would have different tanks is if they are reshaped because of the difference in the bumpers. I assumed that the bumper mounts where the same but don't know why the gas tanks would be different.

I believe they are made by Talbot, as well as others, and they should be available in the states. I know I have seem them someplace else but I cannot remember where. If nothing else try JC Whitney. I have them on another car and have considered them for my Z. Anyone have pictures of them on a Z?

All the Z intakes have round ports. Only the exhaust can have either round or square ports. I don't remember what the story is on the webbed intake manifolds. I know both the 280s I have had ('75 & '76) were with the non-webbed style. I would think the webbed manifold would hold more heat, would make working around it more difficult(harder to see through), would be a little heavier and I don't care for the look much. Just my thoughts. Have fun!

I checked the MSA catalog and the original Datsun Factory Microfiche and see only two part numbers for 280Z fuel tanks. One for '75-'76 & one for '77-'78. There are no separate part number listed for 2+2 cars. I believe that Datsun kept the differences to a minimum and although I have never seen a 2+2 tank, I would not be surprised to find the same tanks in it and the coupes. It does list different parts however for some of the other related fuel parts, ex. the 2+2 filler necks.

I think we will need a picture of the part. If I remember correctly there are two 240Z bumpers and each requires a different over rider because the bumper guards are spaced differently. The '73 240 bumper has the bumper guards that are closer together. The '70-'72 240Z has guards that are further appart, up agains the light buckets. But what you describe sounds backwards, the one you need should be the shorter one and the '71 bumper over rider should be the longer one. Can you measure the length of the one you bought? Pictures would be great too! Have fun!

Although, I perfer SUs on the Z I do have another non-Zcar with Webers. While not in SoCal, Pierce Manifolds are Weber experts. They can answer questions, rebuild your carbs and have all the parts. They have a lot of useful information on their website as well as an online catalog. I don't have any afiliation with them, just a satisfied customer. Pierce Manifolds Inc, 321 Kishimura Drive, Gilroy, CA 95020 USA Tech inquiries: 1(408)842 6667 Order/tech inquiries (FAX): 1(408)842 6673 Email: webercarbs@piercemanifolds.com http://www.piercemanifolds.com Payment: VISA/MasterCard/UPS COD Money Order Shipping: Worldwide I'll check the web links, if they are not there I will add them. Have fun!

Yes, you have to start with the mix nuts turned all the way up to get a starting point. Here are a couple more things to consider. The fast idle adjusting screw, up by valve cover where the linkage takes a right angle and turns down to the carbs, may be turned in. You should set the engine idle with the fast idle screw turned all the way out, so it doesn't impact the idle at all. Then you can use the mix nuts to set the idle. Next, you to check that the needles are installed properly. Take the domes off the carbs and pull out the pistons, not difficult but be careful so you don't spill the oil or bend the fuel needle. Then you can make sure that the needles are installed correctly, with the needle shoulder at the same depth as the flat base of the suction piston. If that doesn't work than you probably need to start at the beginning and check the valves, timing, plugs, and reset the carb balance. Hope it helps.

There are two different types of limit slip diffs. (LSD) available to the car market, not just for Z cars. There is a gear LSD, like Quaiffe sells, and a clutch pack LSD, which is the type that Nissan used. Basically the difference is that the clutch type act as an open diff until a certain amount of torque is applied, then it begins to engage the limited slip. The clutch type also require special LSD gear oil. If I were starting from scratch I would pick the gear type because I think they are more reliable and more durable. But then I have actually never used a clutch type either! As far as I can remember there are two Nissan LSD units available standard from Nissan, if you can find them, that can be easily fitted to an early Z car. The 3.7:1 R-230, looks like a R-200 but has a finned rear cover, which was offered in some Z31 (84-89) 300ZX Turbos or the 3.54 R-180 LSD available in some 240SXs. The 4x4 trucks do have 4.11 R180s in the front but I don't believe they were LSD. You can get a Quiaffe LSD for a R180 or R200 but it will cost you $750 just for the unit. Then you have to have it installed with your ring gear into your diff. housing. If you find a cheap way to do it, other than welding the diff, let us know. I would love to have a LSD in my Z. It's been a while since I researched this stuff for my Z so let me know if I missed something. Corrections, comments, and questions are welcome! Have fun!

I have about 6 drive shafts from various years ('71,'73,'74.5,'75,'75,'76) laying around and almost that many diffs. From what I can tell all the first generation R180 & R200 diff. input flanges are the same with the exception of the '75 280 (first production run with R200). For some reason the flanges on these diffs had larger bolts but smaller flange centers. The next year it seemed to go back to the same setup as was used on the R180s. Also, I have been told not to change flanges but I did it on mine 12 years ago without any problems. You should be able to use your original drive shaft, just a 2manyZs wrote the lengths are a little different, about an inch, but it will work. Sorry, no nothing specific for Austraillian model Zs but hopefully it will be helpful. Have fun!

I'll have to compare my car to my friends '72 240 auto parts car. I've got a busy weekend planned so it may not be until next week but I am sure I will be able to answer most all the questions. Of course if someone else beats me to it, all the better! Have a good one!

I have collector car insurance policy with CNA that I got through Hagerty Insurance (www.hagerty.com). I pay $75 a year to insure my Z for $6K. I don't have all the other specifics but I do remember that I have resonably high limits for liability, they require coverage to be as high as other policies, but I don't have collision or comp. Also, I thought it was an "Agreed Value" but I haven't looked in a while. Hmm... maybe I better confirm that.

I have had problems with water temp sending units in the past and even a new one can be faulty. But before you go spending money lets get some more info, what are you working on 240-260-280? I have a few around and can take some digital pictures on Friday or may be able to respond with some ideas on the extra wires before then.

If you take your seats to a good local auto upholstery shop. They can order top quality kits and install them often for just a little more than buying the kits from a catalog. Plus they can build them up or modify the padding while they are at it. I would find a shop that is familiar with '60 - '70 vinyl car seats or boats. Check with your local Z club and you may even be able to get a discount. I would at least get an estimate first! Have fun!

Hey 2manyZs, thanks for the response! Yeah, you are right the control arms are the same on both sides, one is just upside down. I am almost sure they can be interchanged between 280 and 240 but I would feel more comfortable if someone who has done it could tell me. I also feel pretty certain that the hubs can be interchanged since the rotors are the same, the bearings are the same, and the wheel bolt pattern is the same. But again would be nice to hear from someone who has done it. Maybe, I'll give one of my local Z wrechers a call and see what they say! Anyone else?

Well, since you are in Hawaii you might not have a lot of selection when it comes to finding a Z car. If you are looking for a collectable car than the early '70 or '71 series I model cars are the ticket. These are the cars that have the 240 script on the rear quarter panel and have the vents on the hatch. If you are looking for a car to have fun and drive than any first generation Z between '70 240Z - 260Z - '78 280Z will do. The 240s are lighter and have less emissions controls but are carborated. The 280Z is about 400lbs heavier, mostly the bumpers, and has more emission controls (robs HP) but is fuel injected. The 260Z is in the middle, heavier than the 240 but still carborated. Watch out for '73 240Z or any 260Z with "flat top" carbs, they can be a nightmare. Although, many have been converted to different carbs to resolve part of this mess. Although most have been converted to different carbs that help resolve this mess. Also, rust is your enemy! When you find a specific car you may be interested in let us know and we can give you more of the good and the bad! Have fun!

I thought it was just me because I rebuilt my PC from scratch this weekend! Glad I read this post! Mike what is up!?

I used to get flame out the tail pipe, just before I had to have the engine rebuilt because of trashed valve seats resulting in valve to piston contact, I think I should have used more lead substitute. That was 1989 when I had Rebello build me an L28 engine. I have always been told it is still a "backfire" even if it occurs in the carbs. I think it is because of the point in time it occurs in the cycle of the engine!? The "shut of the engine" backfire is a rich condition and occurs in the exhaust. It usualy results in a muffler exploding! Have fun!

They are typical drums brakes. I would recommend the hardware kit ($10 extra and includes both sides) that includes new springs and clips. The hardware kits are available pretty much anywhere you buy brake shoes, including MSA. I recently changed the brakes on my Civic and spent 1 hour doing the rotors and pads up front but probably 3 hours on the drums. Although, the Z brakes are larger which makes it a little easier to get your hands in there. Have fun!

Howdy, Okay, I know a front hub cannot be swapped with a rear control arm. But can a 280Z hub be swapped onto a 240Z axle and similarly a 280Z rear control arm be swapped onto a 240Z rear suspension? MSA has the same part number for the front wheel bearings '70 - '78 so no difference there. But they list separate part numbers for the hubs and control arms so I am wondering what's the difference. With the control arms I could see it being the hole for a swaybar. I checked the fiche but it is hard to tell if the later numbers are compatible and replace the earlier number or if they are physically different and not interchangable. I've got a few of them on parts cars but I haven't got them appart and haven't had a chance to compare myself. Also, I don't trust my eyes to see the difference. Has anybody been done it successfully or tried it and found it not possible? Thanks folks!

I would suspect most the people here would consider a 240Z purchase worth while! What is the story on the car you are looking at? Or are you looking for someone in Chicago who can help you physically look at it?

I just remembered a friend who had a similar problem with a stock VW bug back in high school days. He removed the stock pipes and put on a dual "quiet pak" muffler setup with two outlets that was very free flowing. He would backfire quite a bit. So he changed to a single "quite pak" muffler with a single outlet and that seemed to solve the problem. By the way the dual setup worked fine on his friends but that was modified substantially (did 13 ETs on the 1/4 mile). I wonder if it isn't just too free flowing for your stock motor? Anyone else ever seen this happen on a Z? I think you may be on the right track. Let us all know how it turns out!