Royce

Here ya go... Zcar Hob Nob & Parts Swap - Rio Vista, CA Rio Vista Muffler 1105 Airport Rd. Rio Vista, California FYI, I got this from the events section on the 240z.org home page. I haven't decide what I am going to bring, my van or Z. Let me know if you need anything and I will try to bring it along!

Looks like an expensive project to me. Once you get the carbs you will need the manifolds, linkage, and then you can start trying to figure out what jets and internals they have! Yikes!!!

I have a few and will have to take a look. I checked the microfiche CD-rom and it looks like many of the early part numbers were replaced by the later part numbers, but nothing beats comparing them side by side.

Difference from 3.36 to 3.54 is barely noticable! Just enough to screw up your speedo, although if you are running 60 series tires on 15" rims it may actually put things back to the way they were. Unless you have to do it now, I would hold out for a different ratio, 3.7 at least, if you are going to make the swap. What do you mean by "diffy bar?" The mustache bar is different for R200 but you already mentioned that. Unlike the early, pre-'72 240s, the rear cross member is the same on a '73 240 as that used for later R200s. I believe the front insulator can be interchanged by just turning it around 180 degrees. The only trick is getting the strap over the front of the diff to work. I have read on Zcar garage that he did it by inverting and grinding the extra threads off the end of the front diff insulator mount bolts. Hope it helps! Corrections, questions, and comments welcomed! Have fun!

I don't know that the R180 is any noiser than a R200. I think that if you are getting a lot of noise it is because you have a worn out diff, mount insulator or bushings. Either that or it is because you are using a solid mount insulator, like me, or poly bushings on the rear suspension pieces that transmit more driveline noise into the cockpit. I don't think you "need" a R200 but I wouldn't want to have a R180 shipped across contry. It is just too heavy to ship back if you have some problem with it. I believe the 3.9 R180 would be from a 200SX, sorry don't know years, or a front diff from a Nissan 4x4 truck. I would try to find one close and depending on where you buy it should be between $60(pick & pull) - $175. If you do end up swapping to a R200 it really is not that big of a deal, okay it is a bit heavier, once you have all the right pieces. When I did mine 10 years ago I bought a cheap wrecked 280Z and swaped what I needed. Hope it helps! Have fun!

mmagnus, There is going to be a swap meet at a muffler shop in Rio Vista, CA on April 6th (just over the Antioch bridge down 160 and then over the HWY 12 bridge). The focus is on modified Z cars. Eric of Zparts in Richmond, who posted the details in the events forum earlier, is going to be taking pictures of modified Z cars. He mentioned putting Z cars up on a lift to get pictures underneath too. I am sure you would be able to talk to people and see it with your own eyes. I converted my Z to an R200 some time ago and believe the key "need to have" items are: -R200 mustache bar (wider bar and larger diff mount holes on different center) -correct driveshaft to go with diff mount flange(there are a couple different mount flanges on various R200s, you will need a drive shaft with the correct mount or change the diff flange). -rear suspension cross member. The stock pre-'72 cross memeber is straight, you need one bent to accomidate the R200 which sits further back. The trick is dealing with the strap that goes over the front end of the diff. It requires some customization to use the strap or you can do what I did, remove the strap and install a solid front diff insulator, which transmits a bit of driveline noise into the passenger compartment. Reminds me of the race car and I don't mind it! I am in the process of parting a few Z's and have learned some things I previously thought were different. The Z 4-speeds and 5-speeds appear to be the same overall length and the R180 and R200 drive shafts are the same length. I have put them side by side. While the R200 is larger it is just mounted further toward the rear of the car so that the flanges are in the same location. I haven't had a chance to put the half shafts next to each other but will do that soon. I believe the R180's can be used on an R200 but not the other way around. I'll have to double check the length when compressed and fully extended. I have most if not all the parts for sale including a 3.5 and 3.7 R200. Let me know if you need anything, I was planning to attend the swap meet and I could bring the stuff there and probably show you how it all goes togethter while one of the cars are on the lift.

I was comparing the doors of my 10/72 '73 240Z to my 12/74 '75 260Z(like 280 doors). I took the door panel off the 240 and 260 and tried to swap. The latches seem to match but the armrest and handle mount holes are in different locations. Looking at them with the door panels off it is more obvious that they are different. Externally the latch, handles and hinges look the same but it would only be a good swap if you changed both doors and changed the interior door panels with the doors. I didn't look at the rear door seam to verify 2manyZ's comments, but I am confident they are correct! Questions, corrections or comments welcomed! Have fun!

FYI, there is a guy in San Francisco, CA area that I talked to that has the 3 into 2 headers that he wants to sell, along with a 4 core radiator for 240. He just bought a new non-Z car. I would think this is the way to go if you are going to run two separate tail pipes. If anyone is interested I can pass on your email to him. I have no financial interest in the deal just trying to connect good parts with someone who may need them. Have fun!

I have heard of 3.36 being very rare R200. I have a couple 3.5s and a 3.7 that I am selling as complete R200 units but have never heard of one that high. Do you have any idea what car the 3.15 would come out of, I'll keep my eyes open?

Quaiffe is a UK company that builds and sells internationally high quality gearboxes and limit slip, posi, diff (LSD) units. They do not sell complete diffs, just the portion of the gears that replace the pinion gears and make it a limit slip. So one would have to remove the ring gear and pinion gears from the diff, mount the ring gear on the Quaiffe unit and reinstall and reset the preload settings. One little tivia bit is that a stand or non-limit slip diff is refered to as an "open" diff. As you may already know the advantage of a LSD is keeping the inside wheel from breaking loose, spinning, when exiting a corner under heavy acceleration, like drag racing. Regarding Datsun/Nissan diff & trans ratios, there is a great site that has lots of the Z ratios and can calculate speed per RPM with different combinations, including different tire sizes. See http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/. The only note is that this site lists the '70, '71 series I & II stock4-speed trans as 240. And it also lists the '72 240 through 280 4-speed as a 260 4-speed. Otherwise I would say everything is pretty well marked. Have fun!

I haven't used a triple carb setup but I think with a stock motor/head you will not really benefit from a carb change, especially since you have a great set of SUs from ZTherapy. I think you would be better surved to do some head -cam, valves, porting, polishing. I have considered different carb setups but have spoken to enough people-Rebello, ZTherapy, etc. who say that unless you have a very trick motor the triples are not going to do any better than a good set of SUs. I am staying with the SUs. Have fun!

Yes it is 7/8ths and it is probably stamped on the side of the master cylinder casting. The stamp should be on drivers left near the base of the master cylinder where it mounts to the vacuum booster. So if you open the inspection lid on the drivers side you should be able to see it. Might need a mirror and a flashlight if your eyes are a little worn but the numbers are fairly large. Have fun!

That long response and I forgot about the "oil them regularly" question, I suppose it helps to reread the original question before pressing reply! You should check the oil level frequently but the oil should not break down like motor oil. Depending on your driving style it could probably be good to change it as often as you change your break fluid, probably once a year if you are driving hard. Check the fluid by removing the cap and looking at the rod. There are two lines on it like a dipstick. I believe the manual says to keep the fluid between the lines. There are a few other "trick" ideas about what the proper level is but using the factory marks is a good guideline. It also makes sense to fill both carbs equally, assuming all parts are worn equally in both carbs. Okay, I am done!

It's a SU thing, I cannot think of another type of carb that has oil in it. Very basically the fuel jet neddle is installed in a suction piston. As engine speeds increase and vacuum increases and the suction piston is drawn upward (maybe pushed a little too??) into the dome of the carb. In the middle of the suction piston there is a well with the "carb oil" in it, kinda like a water well. There is a smaller piston, for lack of the technical word, that hangs in the well on a rod that is attached to the black plastic caps you see on the outside top of the dome. As the suction piston rises the oil in the well is forced past the smaller piston. If there is no oil the piston snaps up instantly, if there is heavy oil the piston moves up very slowly. The key here is that as more air moves through the throat of the carb the suction piston rises and the attached tapered fuel jet needle is pulled out of the fuel nozzel and adds more volume of fuel into the air. Also, at the same time it allows more air volume into the carb. I have heard of some racers running with no oil but it may be just another legend tail. I would think this might cause damage to the suction piston or the inside of the dome, suction chamber and would not be good for fuel economy. Plus it would probaby only work if you didn't have to stop at a stop light and idle for 2-3 minutes. But in the right carb setup lighter oil can improve throttle response. I suspect heavier oil would be good if you want better gas milage!? Boy that was harder to explain than I thought it would be. I tried to keep it simple, but that is not necessarily one of my stronger characteristics. Does that make sense? Corrections & comments welcome! Have fun!

By the way... MSA does list 20 weight oil in their catalog. I don't remember what I used last time, maybe I should go check the levels, but I am probably going to use ATF, if I have some laying around, or 20 weight. Also, make sure whatever you use is designed for the operating temperatures of a vehicle. For example, I believe you can find 20 weight sewing machine oil but I don't know if it will hold up in the engine compartment of a Z. Have fun!

Yes the 240 steering wheel will swap onto a 280Z! Although the center button is mounted differently so you may need to adapt it or get the center cushion too. I'll try to compare my 240 and 280 this weekend and respond with more info. Oh yeah, the 240 wheels are not wood! They are a very interesting and workable plastic type material. From what I have seen it is very durable and from what I have read it can be restored. Have fun!

The 4 screw were used through the '71 model year. The 3 screw were used starting with the '72 model year. I have some of both but I haven't spent any time comparing them. Have fun!

If the 260Z has the stock "flat top" carbs then the 240 carbs may be a good switch. There are those that claim they can get the flat tops to work well, I have never even seen a pair in person, but there is more collective information on working with the 240Z type SU carbs. I have a 260Z parts car that has a L26 with N36 manifold and 3 screw 240Z carbs. I drove it 100 miles when I got it and it ran well, although it has a bent frame so it wanted to change lanes all the time. The only problem seemed to be using the stock air cleaner. There are some adapters used to mate the round port carbs to the square port air cleaner. If you still need to smog the car than you may have to be creative to get all the hoses to connect to something but it can be done. If you don't have to use smog then it would be easiest to use the 240Z air cleaner or aftermarket air cleaner(s) and remove most the smog stuff. The N36 manifolds are supposed to be a little better out of the box than the E88 manifolds. And the 260 head should have larger valves than the 240 head. This brings me to something I am not sure about, that is if the 260 has less compression than the 240 and if so is it in the head or the block? I am not sure why you say the 260 motor would be heavier. Unless you are including all the smog and ignition stuff. The crank shouldn't add and "significant" weight. I don't think it is crazy, use what you have. However, since it sounds like you are going to be rebuilding the engine anyway why not get a L28 block and/or N42 head? I would put my L26/E88/N36/240SU motor into a Z, but was running in a car less than 6 months ago. One last bit is that the 240 & 260 may have different ignition systems? If your 260 has the electronic type, no points, it may require modification to work with a 240Z tach. Sorry, I probably raised more questions than answers. Hope it helps! Have fun!

It depends on the catagory you are going to run but the advantage of a 240 is that they are about 300 lbs lighter! The 280 has lots more sound insulating material, electronic gizmos and the heavier R200 diff. I don't think $500 sounds bad for a 280Z that runs and is in fair to good condition. But I haven't priced to many 280Z's either. Price is always subjective and can be tuff when dealing with a "friend." Many friends have been lost over car deals! I would say that as long as both parties agree on a price it is a fair deal. If you cannot find a better car for that price then it may be worth it.

I had a similar problem, the headlight almost seemed to glow orange. After lots of $$$ spent changing parts I found that is was something very simple. In my situation it was the fuse holder that had separated over time. If you are not comfortable around the fuses disconnect the battery first. Don't use metal tools near the fuse box unless you are planning on doing some welding! ;-) Take out the fuse for the headlight in question and gently bend the fuse holders slightly toward each other. It doesn't take much, just enough to make the fuse fit tightly in place. This did the trick for mine! I would recommend changing the fuse, even if it looks okay as long as you are there. If this doesn't work than it is probably a bad ground or something in the wireing between your headlight and fuse. In that case disconnect the wire harness blug for the head light, get out your multimeter and start testing. I hope it as something as simple as mine! Have fun!

If the valve stem seals are going bad you will see lots of blue smoke when you first start the car. I suppose if they are really gone you will see a fair amount of blue smoke all the time but not likely. Have you done a compression check to make sure you don't have other internal problems? I have never changed the valve stem seals on a installed head, just happend I had it off and haven't needed to change them since, but I hear it can be done. If you are going to take the head off there are a lot of things that could/should be done at that point. It would be a good time to change cam, valve springs, regrind valves and valve seats, change timing belt. It really depends on the overall condition of the head and the engine and how much $$$ you have to spend on the car. I wouldn't take a chance on a used head unless you are able to drive it or get a lot of the history on the head and you really know it is bad. You may end up spending more money changing it and if it is bad it may get what you want out of it! I have never heard of a E87. The Nissan L6 heads I am familiar with are E31 & E88 for 240/260, N42 & N47 for 280Z and P79, P90, P90A for 280ZX. Are you sure it is not a N47?? Hope it helps!

Is it accurate? Maybe or maybe not! First check your oil level! I have heard of gauges acting up but usually a problem with the oil reading is the sending unit. My motor is not stock and I have a ZX high volume oil pump so the reading may be different from yours. I usually see a reading of about 1/2 at about 2000 RPM and it usually goes up to 3/4 or a little more when on the freeway, between 2800-3500. Over that I am usually watching my mirrors more than the oil gage! Is mine accurate? I don't know but it seems to work okay.

EScanlon, Thanks for the details, I certainly don't mind being proven wrong! I suspect they where building '71 series II and '72 in 09/71 because I have seen a few, I'll have to check the VIN's now! Interesting what is in the microfiche. I am surprised they changed the vapor tank so close to a model change, must have been a real problem with the early ones. I'll have to go look at my friends early '71. Have fun!

EScanlon, FYI... your 9/71 240Z is a '72 model car. Datsun/Nissan built three different cars during the '71 production year. The '71 series I with the vents on the tailgate and the 240Z quarter badges (amongst other differences), the '71 series II vents moved to the quarter panels (again other changes) and the '72 240Z. My car was built '8/71 which is the last month of '71 series II run. For example my car has the fuse box on the trans tunel under the ash tray at the front of the center console, while your fuse box will be behind the passenger kick panel with the redesigned console to make room for the later style transmission with the more forward shifter. See www.zhome.com for a list of the other differences, however, I don't think they list the vapor collection tank! I'll have to take that panel off and see what I have back there! Of course mine being a late '71 series II and yours being a early '72 makes them both much more valuable! :-) Have fun!

I'll take it off you hands for say $500 just so you don't have to deal with all this complicated stuff! Pictures would really help if you want some educated guesses for where to start pricing. Also, if you look in the drivers door jam and give us the production month/year that would really help too! In '71 Datsun/Nissan produced three significantly different 240 model cars. Sounds like it could be a very interesting car!