Royce

I honestly don't know a way to tell by visual inspection. If no one else has a way you may have to take it to a engine builder to check. Oh yeah, one more thing about the E88 vs. N47. The E88 has smaller valves than the N47. I cannot remember if it is just larger exhaust valves or if the intake is also larger. Sorry, don't have the comparable sizes either. It is common to fit the larger 280Z valves in a 240Z head (E31 or E88) during rebuild so I believe they are not a lot bigger. But ever little bit helps. Sorry I don't have more specifics. I would not be surprised to find all these details on this site. They could probably be found using some search functions.

The E88 heads came with soft bronze valve guides and valve seats. These items get soft over time. One way to slow down the aging process is to use a lead additive, since gas hasn't contained lead for a few decades. Typically anytime a head is overhauled the guides and seats are replaced with hardened parts, which have been used in cars since lead went away. Since this head supposedly only has 60K on it the guides and seats may be original. Or is it that they have 60K since a rebuild? I believe the N47 head, which first came on the '77 280Z. was the first to come stock with hardened valve seats/guides. So you may still need to change the valve seats and guides. Also, if you are replacing a N47 head you still will need a new exhaust manifold/header as I mentioned previously. It would seem that it wouldn't take much work to make the E88 head work but I haven't done it and so the thought of taking the head to a machine shop sounds expensive. If you do decide to go looking for an N47 head they came on '77 - '78 240Z's and '79 280ZX's (which were plentiful in Sacto wrecking yards last year). To me this sounds better, but you are also right to consider the heads condition in the equation. I will agree that a good E88 could be better than a warn out N47 to start with! So it may be a coin toss as to which saves you more time and money. Just trying to give you some information to help you make a decision. Let us know which way you decide to go and how it all works out! Happy New Year!

I would guess Martini is an Italian company, but I could be wrong. Probably a case of the Datsun folks drinking too many Martini's at lunch before a board meeting to come up with a logo.

PUSHER, This may start a big debate but if you are doing street driving then Castrol GTX is fine. I would stay away from Silicone brake fluids. If you are going to be doing track events than I have heard many folks use Ford Heavy Duty Truck Brake fluid which is a none synthetic. I use Motul brake fluid, it is synthetic but not silicone so it can be mixed in or bled into systems that did not previously have synthetic brake fluid in them without concern. Motul is not typically sold in stores and can be ordered from places that carry race brake supplies or general racing suppies like http://www.summitracing.com Have fun!

Sorry to continue getting this thread a bit off topic but here goes... FYI... in the US the ash tray fuse box cover was used on '70 and '71 model 240Zs, including the '71 series II cars (without hatch vents) like mine (build 08/71). The console change did come about with the transmission change in the '72 US model cars. The main problem area with the ash tray fuse box cover was that the tangs of the ash tray cover would break and the cover would not flip open properly or break off completely . Most of these cars will have the ash try but no cover. Wow, $100+ on ebay these days. I replaced mine new from Nissan 15 years ago for about $30, one of the few times I actual replaced a part before they became hard to get! You can use a later 5-speed in the early cars. You will need to cut an inch or 2 of the trans tunnel making the shifter opening longer to the front. Since the original inner rubber boot would no longer work I mounted the later style inner rubber boot. This mounted easily using a boot frame from a later car and self tapping sheet metal screws. I did this swap on my car long before I found internet Z clubs and went ahead and cut my orginal console a bit to fit the later shifter. It would take some modification to the shifter lever but I am sure you could make it work without cutting the console. Hope it helps! Happy new year!

z_boi, What head are you replacing? As 2manyZ mentioned the E88 the US Z E88 head isn't designed for fuel injectors and would need to be modified to do so. I believe there are some E88 heads from Maximas that are made for FI systems but don't have the details. If you are replacing a N47 head, which would have been stock on your 1978 280Z, then going to a E88 or N42 head will also mean changing to a different exhaust manifold or header. Reason being the N47 has round exhaust ports and the E88 and N42 has square exhaust ports. Hope it helps!

Yes, the studs are shorter and I think they are a different diameter as well. The N36 manifolds were used with a different thinner spacer and there should be gaskets on both sides. My 260Z had the 3 screw carbs with the N36 intake manifold. I believe mine used the stock N36 thin spacer setup however I have heard, probably on this site, of people fitting longer studs and using the 240 insulators.

I have read that the rods with 9MM bolts came in '73 model 240Z engines, therefor engines built for '70 - '72 model 240Zs engines would have the 8MM bolts. I have NOT heard of the smaller bolts being a big problem for street cars. I suspect it was probably a change Nissan made so the larger rods bolts could be used in production class racing. So if you are building a full race motor using L24 rods it would certainly be nice to have them but I don't think it is a must have item. A free motor is always nice. I would still consider a L28 if you are going to be putting any time or money into the motor. At least here in California they are readily available and relatively inexpensive to find a rebuildable complete L28 motor.

I believe that is the Hitachi symbol on the float bowl that you pointed out. It sounds like they are the 3 screw Hitachi SU type carbs. They are also often referred to as SU's in short, although, they are not identical to the British SU's you would find on a Jag, MG, Healy, Mini, etc. As a general guidline, in the US the 4 screw SU type carbs came on '70- '71 model 240Zs and the 3 screw SU type carbs came on '72 model 240Z. The '73 240Z came with the flattop carbs, however, many were changed by Nissan dealers to the earlier type because of customer complaints. Other than the number of screws used to fasten the dome, the next big difference is that the 3 screw carb body has a channel in the bottom to allow water to flow through them. This channel does not exist on the 4 screw carbs. I think I have read that this was done to help the carbs warm up faster in cold environments and maintain a more consistent temperature during operation. There are some other subtle differences but for the most part I believe that as a unit the carbs are interchangeable. From what I have seen, I think that $150 for an average set of carbs with air cleaner is a fair price to buyer and seller. You might be able to get more from the right buyer if they work as good as you say and are in show shape - particulary shinny with all the linkage plating in very good condition. But that is just my thoughts. Mileage may vary! Happy Holidays!

I think you might want to clarify your sale. Are they actual British SU carbs with a custom air cleaner? Are they Hitachi round top SU style carbs with matching air cleaner from a '70 - '72 240Z, because in the US the '73 240Z didn't come with SU style carbs. Are they some other type of carb? Or are they the flattop, sqaure mouthed Hitachi carbs (not SU like) that came on the '73 240Zs? If not sure pictures are always helpful! Sorry to be so specific, but his is a Z web site!

That's funny! You can tell Carl, Keith and I all worked up our similar responses at about the same time. But Carl, was first because his response was short and my typical long winded response put me last! What can I say. It is the day before Christmas eve, I am at work, and I am easily distracted as well as easily amused! Have fun! Happy Holidays!

Howdy, I think the main stigma of the 260Z is the added emissions controls and the infamous flat top carbs! In stock form it is a little heavier, a little less powerful, and less reliable, because of the emissions stuff, than the 240Z. But really not much more so than the '73 240Z. In the US there were two different 260Z cars built for the '74 model year, each a transition from the 240Z to the 280Z. The early 260Z had a unibody and interior that was more similar to the 240Z. It had full rubber covers on the bumper guards, unique to this model. These cars also have the turn signals under the front bumper like the 240Z but the taillight lenses that are like the 280Z. While the later 260Z looks like a 280Z, both inside and out. Example, it had the turn signals over the larger bumpers. But had it had 260Z running gear. The 260Z was also the first go with electronic ignition, which was changed and further developed with the 280Z. So you can see that the 260Z does have a character of it's own. Which sometimes makes it hard to find bits and pieces for them. I had a late 260Z, built 12/74, and it was a good car. However, mine had been converted to 3 screw SU type carbs and 240Z bumpers. Too bad it got hit so hard the rear unibody got all screwed up. As for sales $$$ the 240Z is probably more of the "classic Z" and may demand a slightly higher price, but to me there is nothing wrong with a good 260Z. Hope it helps! Happy Holidays!

I am pretty sure all the 240Z steering column covers are the same. I don't have any for the 240Z but do have some 280Z type that are a little different. thefastestz, I'll send you a private message regarding the 280Z cover.

Hey Dave, I saw in your original message you asked about mounting both the lap and shoulder belts to the existing floor mounts for the stock lap belts, not a recommended solution. You typically want the shoulder belts to be mounted as close to level to your shoulders as you can get. Reason being is that low belts can actually compact your spine which can cause back aches and over extended periods could cause back problems. So when are you going to return the favor and take me for a ride in your Z? Happy track events!

Hi Steve, Not sure I understand your question? What do you mean by "...mate it with an L24 fully reconditioned..." Are you suggesting people are removing L28 (F54 casting)/N42 engines and putting back in the original L24/E88 engines in a 240Z??? I agree that which head is best is a crap shoot. For the most part with money they can all be made to perform well. I think it has been said here that if you have one of the different L6 heads in good shape to start with you are ahead of the game! What I have seen is more and more that most 240Z's these days have L28 blocks in them (I am one of them). If you have to have your engine rebuilt and you are not concerned about being original (because of show or racing class rules) the L28 makes a lot of sense. The blocks are newer, have more displacement, can be bought inexpensively (I see a lot more L28's in the junk yards than L24's). I have heard numerous folks with L6's with 3.0+ liters of displacement (some here at this site) say they rev up just fine with the right cam. Since it is a bolt on swap you can keep your old L24 engine block and head to sell with the car if you want to keep it's original value. Not sure if that is the same point you were trying to make or not. Hope it helps!

quansta, Okay, so you have a ZX F54 block and a '73 240Z head (should be an E88). But what car are you going to put it in? If it is going back into a '73 240Z with Hitachi SU type carbs then you don't have to worry about sensors, etc. You can use your old crank pully, exhaust manifold, alternator, smog pump, motor mounts, distributor, flywheel, etc. I think you will need to swap over the crank vent tube. Also, the bumps in the oil pan may be different so you may need to swap the oil pan and maybe even the oil pump inlet tube and strainer. When doing this swap many like to use the ZX distributor and electronic ignition module, so you don't have to deal with points. This does require some minor wiring modifications. The other difference is you will need to use better gas as your compression ratio will go from 8.5:1 to close to 10:1 depending on the head gasket used. To get the most out of the F54/E88 combo you would want a good exhaust setup, maybe some larger valves and better cam. texasz, It's been a while since I have looked at an N42 head. But from what I have read and seen all the L6 FI heads still have the threaded holes for the carbs so you should be able to bolt up an N36 intake and Hitachi SU type carbs to the N42 (or N47,P79, P90 or P90A) head and use that combo with the F54 L28 block. Like with quansta when using an first generation head (E31, E88, N42, or N47 head) you will end up with close to 10:1 compression, which will benefit from better exhaust, etc. The advantage of the N42 head is that it has larger valves than the earlier heads. Otherwise I have read that the cam and combustion chamber of the N42 is very similar to the earlier heads. Hope it helps! Happy Holidays!

Do you have the aircleaner off? If not take it off and look at the bottom of the carbs. I bet that the choke is not releasing the fuel nozzel all the way on one carb. This will cause half the spark plugs to foul and the idle will suffer and exhaust will be black. Reving the engine real hight my seem to make it better. This could happen if the choke cable (where it attached to the carb) is out of adjustment, the choke linkage is tweaked, or the fuel nozzle is worn. Look ( you may need a mirror to get a good view) specifically at the orientation of the fuel nozzles, black plastic thing that the receives the fuel line from the fuel float. They both should return to the same position every time. The fuel nozzles have a shoulder on the top that should be flush to the bottom of the carb body (actually, I think it is flush to the nozzle adjuster wheel that is attached to the bottom of the carb body). With the car off have someone actuate the choke and watch how each carb works. You can also actuate the chock linkage on the side of the carb by hand. This is a common problem and often can be temporarily fixed by pushing up gently on the bottom of the fuel nozzle that is not returning properly. I had this with my 240Z and I was able to do push the nozzle up by feel with the air cleaner on, not very hard with some practice. Also, remove and inspect your spark plugs. Most likely three are really black and need to be cleaned or replaced. If all the plugs are fouled than you may need new plugs before you adjust the carbs and your problem could be with the ignition, clogged air filter, or heat range of the spark plug. Check this out and let us know what you find. Hope it helps!

That's quite okay Carl! I respect you and was starting to doubt myself! Thanks for checking it out and following up! As you said, I've have taken a few of these cars apart. The problem is I haven't put that many back together! Take care!

Are you sure about that Carl??? While my E46 does have water running through the manifold it certainly doesn't have water running to the carbs. Are you sure you don't have an E88? You can certainly use the later insulators and carbs, that do have the water passages on a early manifold. I hate to disagree with you but I have seen quite a few E46 and E88 (and E33) manifolds to support my claim. I suppose another theory is that Nissan had some transitional pieces. It wouldn't be the first time. Anyone else out there have a E46 intake manifold that has provisions to run wather to the carbs, not just through the manifold???

Steve forgot to mention that he took his bumpers off that 280Z with full interior! I weighed mine once. I thought it was 2450# but that may have been with me (220#) in it. Have fun!

I don't know where else to get stock springs. I have Tokico springs, lower the car about an inch, with Tokico shocks (non-adjustable) and the ride is not too harsh. Well, kit is not to me anyway. I bought mine in '88 through a shop called Datsonville in Milbrae, CA. I see MSA sells a set with the same description but don't know if they are the same. Hope it helps and that you find what you want!

I've got a complete set and I am pretty sure the original US configurations went like this: E46 '69 - ' 71 240Z with 4 screw SU style carbs E88 '72 240Z with 3 screw SU style carbs E33 '73 240Z with Flattop Hitachi carbs E36 '74 260Z with Flattop Hitachi carbs The E46 and E88 look very similar with the difference being the E88 routes water through the bottom of the carbs. The E33 and E36 look very similar, not sure what the difference is. Sorry to not have specifics. One day when I have a bunch of "extra time" I plan to take some pictures and document the differences. Hope it helps! Have fun!

The same specification will be fine for alloy wheels. I have tried to remove lug nuts put on my steel and alloy wheels by tire shops, that use air wrenches, that were tightened way over 120ft. lbs. In one case I figured it out after I broke my 3/4" to 1/2" socket adapter trying to loosen them.

I checked the manual and found the following: To tighten Datsun Z wheel lugnuts to maximum torque: Use a torque wrench and tighten lugnuts to 65 ft. lbs. If a torque wrench is not available use a 2" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and tighten until threads begin to strip, then back the lugnut off 1/4 turn! ;-) Have fun!

Before buying 14 x 7 wheels you might want to figure out what tires you want to use! There are still performance tires available for 14" but they are harder to find and may actually be more expensive because of this. Just one more thing to research!