Royce

FYI, it is hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like a setup from a '71 240Z. If in fact the carbs have 4 screws holding down the dome than the carbs are from a late '70 - late '71 car. Also, the intake may also be from an earlier Z. Again, I cannot tell from the pictures. From what I have seen of US cars, the E46 intake manifold was on the early Z's up to the '72 model when the E88 intake manifold started being used. It seems that the manifold switch was at the same time as the carb switch. Now, if you have a very early '72 than this may be a crossover item between '71 and '72 model. If not they have probably been switched at some point. What month/year was your '72 Z built??? Which intake manifold is it(E46 or E88)?

Oh, I wouldn't say that at all. If you cannot make these work on a Z than they would certainly be valuable to someone. I would think much more than the "boat anchor" US flat top carbs. I have also heard of people using British SU carbs on Z's with good success. I'll have to take a look at my Ztherapy video again to see if he shows carbs like these. I am pretty sure he goes over British and Volvo SU carbs.

Well, those are certainly not US Z Hitachi SU carbs. The carb bodies are very, very different. I am pretty sure that they are from a non-Datsun vehicle but don't know what they might be from. But hey! That doesn't mean you cannot get them to work on a Z. But you will likely need to get them to mount to a Z manifold.

I took a look at the picture you attached to this thread. It is hard to see much of the carbs other than the domes. And from that all I can say is they look like SU type carbs. The air cleaner surely doesn't look like a US round top SU type carb air cleaner. It is the right color but the shape of the air inlet is totally different. And the manifold would not work on any of the US Z carb heads. The mount bolts are too far in the corners, US heads bolts are closer over the holes of the ports. Also the US Z carb heads don't have wather inlets between the rear ports. One more thing is that the thermostat housing is not part of the US manifolds and it is further forward on the head. It also looks like there are vacuum diaphrams on both carbs. US 240Z SU carbs only have a vacuum fitting on the front carb for the distributor vacuum advance. The linkage looks somewhat Z like. Either this is off a Z with a very different head design or a different straight 6 engine. How about a picture from the other side with the air cleaner off? Sorry, I cannot be more helpful in identifying these carbs!!!

I have not heard of a carb manifold for the US Z like that. Pictures would be helpful. You can use the N36 manifold, in fact many consider it the preferable manifold to use with the earlier SU style Hitachi carbs. In the US it is common to swap the balance tube from an earlier manifold to eliminate some of the smog gear. But I don't know if this is necessary for a non-US N36 manifold. Anyway, the carb bodies themselves should bolt up to the N36 manifold. Pictures of the carbs and both manifolds would help.

echocluster said "how would i get the shock off. it looks like it is connected to the shaft and that is connected to the hub?" Remeber these are struts not shocks. Generally speaking the original struts consist of the strut rod, cap nut, and strut housing (the part attached to the axle housing. You don't need to remove the strut housing, just replace the strut rod with a strut insert, which looks similar to a shock but doesn't have a bottom mount point. So you need to remove the nut with a large wrench or use a pipe wrench if needed. But try not to damage it because you will need to reuse it and it creates the seal to keep in the strut oil. Your replacement strut cartridges should come with instructions for adding oil to the strut housing before putting in the strut cartridge. If not contact the manufacturer for that info. Hope it makes sense! Have fun!

Yeah that is normal. They just need a little encouragement to separate them. I usually use a punch or a screwdriver, the finer the blade edge the better, and a medium size hammer. Put the blade end in between the half shaft flange and the flange end of the axle, the parts the nuts/bolts were holding together. Give it some wacks with the hammer and then rotate the half shaft 90 degrees and give it some more hits. I keep working my way around, you'll probably see it start to separate by the time you get back to were you started. Keep working you way around all four sides until it finally comes loose.

I played guitar in a band for years, and still jam with the boys when we can escape the kids long enough. Back when my Z was a daily driver I allways liked driving late at night to songs like Kashmir by Led Zepplin, Night Prowler by AC/DC, Slow Ride by Foghat, Rock Candy by Montrose, Orion by Metallica, or The Zoo by Scorpions. But these days, if I get some time alone with the Z car it is L6 by Nissan! However, if I get in any other car with a CD player and no kids it is anything by Dream Theater! Enjoy!

Okay, first there is no best setup!!! Everything is a compromise! All hill clims, race tracks, autocrosses, street corners and stop lights are a little different. What works "best" at one may not work at another. Even different wind, elevation, weather, incline/decline will make one combination a little better or worse. This is why pro racers will change there trans, diff, and maybe tire combination at just about every track. Don't forget that tire size can make a difference when comparing gear ratios! drmattyg, Assuming everything was kept stock. There are basically two different 4-spds available in US 240Zs. The "B" type 4-spd, used '72 and up, is very similar to the "B" type early 280Z 5-psd. But then the "A" type early 4-spd has lower 1st & 2nd gears than the above. So you first have to make sure you are comparing the right transmissions. Next, do both of you have the same size tires? Maybe your tach is not correct? Another thing is that maybe your speedo gear or speedometer is not working properly. One thing you can almost be certain of, there are a few rare exceptions, is that 4th gear will be 1:1 in most all Z gearboxes. Also, are you really sure that both cars have stock diff ratios!? I would start by running both cars at a given RPM in 4th gear. I like using the following web site for comparing different Z drive line combos, maybe it will help you. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ texasz, Everything I have read/heard over the years says there was no 5-spd available in the US in '76 280Z's. But if there was I am sure it is the same one you would find listed as '77 280Z - '79 280ZX. Last thing, I prefer the 3.9 or even 4.11 diff with a '81 - '83 280ZX non-Turbo trans because in my opinion it gives the best gear spacing and most options for the widest variety of different driving situations. Comments, questions, and correction are welcomed! Have fun!

Hmm... still thinking about this one. It may be possible if you can compress the strut cartridge enough to get the spring out??? Anyone else done it?

I don't think you can do it without disconnecting the brake lines. I have taken a lot more appart than I have put back together these days. In other words I am usually removing the entire strut assembly anyway and have not tried to do it without removing the brake and steering hardware.

NOTE: SERIOUS INJURY INCLUDING DEATH MAY RESULT IF YOU SUDDENTLY REMOVE THE TENTION FROM THE COIL SPRINGS!!! The big thing to be careful of is not to take the big, top nut off the strut cartridge before you have secured the spring. I usually brake it loose before removing the three bolts that hold the top of the strut assembly in place. If not you will have to use a pipe wrench or some other tool to keep the strut cartridge rod, the shinny one, from spinning when you try to remove the nut. Once you drop the strut you can put a spring compressor, available at most auto supply stores, on to hold the spring tention while you remove the large strut cartridge nut. Then slowly remove the spring compressor tool. There is more to it than that, but the rest is not as dangerous! Hope it helps!

2manyZ's wrote: "Now all ya got to do is find them in a junkyard....." Yeah, and hope nobody changed the ratio from stock! I hate it when that happens!!! :stupid: The web site I listed previously doesn't include the truck ratios! Great chart 2manyZ's!!!

This brings up an interesting point. I have always wondered why go with a 160 degree thermostat??? You want the engine to warm up all the way and operating water temp for a L6 is about 180 degrees. I have heard that they run well at 190 as well. With a 160 degree thermostat I would think that in the summer, once your thermostat opens it is not likely to close and the water won't get a chance to sit in the radiator and cool. During the winter, your engine may never reach operating temperature. I would think a 190 thermostat would be better, especially if you are going to go with a 4 row radiator. If your car continues to overheat because it is not because it has a 190 degree thermostat. A general rule on overheating I have always heard is... I you overheat at crusing speed it is most likely your radiator. If the engine is overheating while idleing than it is the fan. Of course this assumes the rest of the cooling system is functional. But these are the two most common starting points. What do you think gang?

Too many to settle on a catergory!

Hmm... 60MPH sounds right for a '77 280Z - '79 280ZX trans. Sounds like your new trans has the same ratios as your old one, just the speedo gear was different! Maybe because someone installed an early 5-spd into a later '81 - '83 ZX body. Then put in the correct speedo gear to go with the 3.9. It is the problem getting used parts from 20 to 30 year old cars, the source vehicle may have been altered from stock. Does that make sense???

Oh, and yes I have used good 2x4 scraps on top of my jack or jackstand to soften the contact area and avoid damage. It is one of the advantages of working on a light car. Also, regarding jacking from a front wheel well. I often have to lift on the front bumper just a touch with my shoulder to lift the car so I can get the jack under the front cross member.

When I jack the front or back of my car I usually come in from one of the wheel well areas, then when it is up just high enough I straighten the jack out if I have room. Of course the platform on my jack is big enough to completely craddle the front cross member or the front diff mount. You don't want to be moving the jack around with it at full extension. If you don't like that then take a couple 2x4 pieces and make a 45 degree cut at one end. Drive the car up on the short 2x4 "ramps" before jacking the car up.

The speedometer gear is in the trans at the point where the speedometer cable attaches. There is one 10mm bolt holding a lock tab in place. If I remember correctly, once this is removed you can pull the speedometer gear assembly out of the car. Swap this unit with the unit from your '76 280Z trans and you should be in good shape. Or better yet swap the diff with a 3.9 from a 280ZX and you should be pretty close. Your speedo would probably be off a little because of the difference in tire size, don't know what came stock on a 280ZX. Have fun! Thanks for the compliments on my car! Unfortunately, it looks better on film than in person! But I still love it!

I have used cheap jacks but I wouldn't use a cheap jack stand! I prefer a jack with a large platform so that it is less likely to damage the car. Smaller platform can put dents in your frame rails. I also like jack stands that have a thick piece of metal for the platform for the same reason, like the levitating stands that 240Z shows. If you are worried the car might not be secure, find a better spot to put the jack stands or give it a shake test before you get under there. Easier to fix a car than a person! I have had a car fall off a jack but never off of jack stands. Be sure to put them under a major support piece or frame rail and you should be fine. Also, typically the further they are apart the more stable the car will be.

Thanks for saving me the trouble, too many Z parts in front of the workbench (where the manuals are) right now!

Yes, good news!!! Thanks for the update!!!

Yeah, I am lost! But that is nothing new and certainly not your fault! Happy Margarita day!

Okay, it sounds to me like your speedo is not correct! Which speedo gear are you using in the 280ZX trans that is currently in your 280Z car? According to http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ a '76 280Z coupe with auto or 4-spd would have a 3.54 diff ratio. Then a '79 5-spd 280ZX coupe would have had a 3.36 diff ratio and the '81 - '83 280ZX 5-spd coupe would have had 3.9 diff ratio. So depending on the tire size for those give years you may have three different speedo gears to choose from. Sounds like your best bet would be to use your original '76 280Z speedo gear. Also, if all your gears match up except 5th than you might have the rare '80 5-spd that has the same 1-4 ratios as the '81 - '83 but 5th is a little shorter! Hope it makes sense! Let me know if I need to try to explain myself better.

Isn't that what a L26 is? Boy, I now I cannot remember if the 260 is a bored or stroked L24!!?? Time to review the books!