918/240Z

Hi everyone, I haven't been here in quite a while...Life takes us in different paths now and then. I bought/found a really clean 71 240z back in 2001... I enjoyed bringing it back to life and driving and showing the Z... It was taken off the road to have some mechanical items looked after and a new paint job done.. Well that's now over 2yrs... While sitting at the shop the battery acid took its toll ... my battery tray is eaten, the pristine floors and frame rails as well:cry:: disappointed... I need the right frame rail (MotorSport sells in pairs) the battery tray.. as well... my body guy says if I can get the clip from the fire wall to under the strut it will work..... The lower part under the frame rail that the connecting rod bolts through also has been eaten... Does anyone know of a junk yard or any place that has the parts that can ship to NYC... would be much appreciated.... Dave G.

Hi , I picked up a 1971 240z back in 2001.. I brought the car back from the dead..I drove him around for a few years then...I let him sit for about 2 yrs. He's in the "shop" get re done. I need to order new rubber body..seals.. gaskets.weatherstriping... the whole kit.. Who makes the best kit out there? I remember a few years back few were complaining the doors wouldn't close right and other problems.. All the glass is coming out for the paint job. I also need a new hood as it rotted sitting (previously fixed bondo didn't help). Who sells the best new one? Also the chrome body/hood/trunk emblems.. Am I better off replating/painting the originals or buying new? again from who? I hope to stay up to date from now on...It's just life got in the way... Thanks Dave G

Hi I'm a little late into this thread but I think the Twice pipes are supposed to be over and under not side by side that might be part of your problem.. I also wanted MSA Twice Pipes but read you had to cut a little of the rear valence..I wasnt going to do that to a virgin 71 240 so I had a muffler shop build me a system over and under with glass packs or he called them resonators..said they wouldnt blow out... Anyway I love them people always seem to know I'm on my way ..Guys on bikes look over say nice car nice sound ..around idle i rumble like a motorboat.. get on up about 2700-3500 and who needs a horn...by the way I dont have a radio in the car driving this way about 2yrs( who needs one).. Good luck Dave

Nice find.. how much did you pay? It looks like a 70 or early 71 , Interesting seeing it with an auto tranny.. looks like it has a/c as well... If you didn't buy it do so as long as you don't see any major rot on the rails or in the hatch from the pics the car looks clean.. Since your into VWs think of this car as an Oval or a split window.. might be worth as much... Its hard to find an original car out there buy it, clean it if you don't want it someone here will take it off your hands.... Were is it anyway? Good luck Dave

I know the vicegips work... you can also put a pipe on the nut and brake the stud off... Some garages or tireshops have a kit that will remove the locks without damage in case a custumer forgot or lost the key... SNAPP ON tools carrys the kit.. See if you can ? rent it maybe from a garage...

I'm still new to Zees myself but.... Is it a knock? or is it ticking? if you raise the idle a little does it get stronger knocking or faster ticking? Have you checked your valve adjustments...... lets hope its the upper end (rockers from lack of oil) alot cheaper then getting into the block... Any one out there that can help better describe valve noise? can it be carbon build up .... detonation?? ( marbles in a can) Just my 2 cts. Good Luck Keep your Z alive Z ya Dave.

Forgot to say the car will smoke for a little while from the oild down the cyls. also dont gun it when it does fire take it easy... let it run a few sec.. then shut it start it again.. let it warm up... When you do get it " on the road " keep an eye on the oil level it may lose oil from sticky oil rings alittle Marvel in the gas at fill ups should help...... Later Dave

Hey nice having a new toy.... get a motorsport catalog victoria catalog.... I found my Z (71 240) sleeping for about 3 yrs... had to do a few things also. Take a paper and write down the firing order of your plugs the way thay are in your car # your spark wires... my distributor was put in ? 180-- from where its supposed to (nice mech who changed the oil pump ) take your plugs out clean and gap them clean the wires get P.B. Blaster its a penetrating oil... the best I did this on a lot of cars... spray the cyls let it sit a few days.. in the mean time change the oil... the filter... pour the oil in on top of the vavles(take cover off) put the car in gear dont put the plugs back yet.... rock the car carefully back and forth you might need a friend to free up the rings..slowly.. after they moved youll know(the car will move) put some Marvel M Oil down the plug holes let it sit..move the car... or turn the eng by HAND...let it sit some more you want to break down the ridge of corrosion that may have developed... When you feel that it is smooth enough for you... put a fresh battery in... out of gear ... crank the eng.. without plugs...(no compression) it easyier on the starter and everything else.. build up oil pressure .. Now put in your plugs ,wires ( the cap is good right?) I disconnected the gas tank and ran my z from a 20oz bottle.. ( didnt realize the z also pumped some gas back to the tank:eek: ) you can open the float bowls and put gas in them fist..to prime... get there any way and clean out the gunk... Keep a fire extin...handy dont want to lose a Z.... My brakes were locked... (I would do this fisrt before trying to start it..get it rolling).... jack up each wheel one at a time... try to turn it... hit the rim around the rim with a rubber mallet put a bar..(becareful not to mess up your rims) in a wheel slot stand on it get it to turn alittle in each dir. go back and forth..... on the rears be very careful about hitting the rear drums they are alum. and will chip or crack.... once you know its running then you can change all the hoses and belts..antifreeze..etc... p.s. DON'T get a Chilton book( toilet paper) Haynes is better but get a few ..for different opinons... I just found out there are two different places you can set valve lash from... Good Luck Zu soon.... Dave

Hope someone can help... I have a 71 240 with slotted "Dish Mags" mine have 4 screw holes in the face of the wheel for the center cap to be screwed into.. Any idea what brand they were so I can look for center caps? Also what kind of screw was used? size /thread? Does anyone know of a company selling spinners with towers that would srew "onto " the wheel..? Oh yea.... lug nut length? 12mmx 1.25 but how long? thanks alot Dave

Your welcome..... See isn't it nice to share info:) Nice price..... I think you saved more than half the price...... Who needs a "New" book when "we" drive an "old" car.... The book isn't a shop manual so I doubt there would be grease on it.... but it does give good tips that you wont find elsewhere like what color paint to use on the rear panel where the tail lights go...???? (forgot the name) also don't remove the stainless trim on it ....I've been happy with it and happier I didn't pay......$30 + for it..... Good Luck....... Dave

You can try Ebay but know the price don't over spend..... I bought mine from amazon...try half.com....Its a nice book... better if you don't have to pay full price

Well what can I say I'm biased 918(orange) it is my first Z But there is a color... yellowish it looked like a plastic model any one know what color, #, and year it was used? Thanks..... Dave

Look for rust if there is none look for rust.....I'm new to Datsuns also just got my new 71 240z in july not running....sitting 3years runs now very very little of the r word to speak of... :-) ... havent driven it yet ... maybe in the next 2 weeks . If the body is clean and it runs well your ahead of the game..... good luck... Dave

You may want to check out MOTORSPORT auto www.zcarparts.com I'm also new to the Z's but the catalog they sent me is great lots of exploded views of parts........ Urethane is best for the lower end.....as fiberglass will crack and chip when you bottom out...plus rocks like to go through fiberglass Good luck

I used JB Weld to fix the cracked plastic under the horn pad...... It was all there but cracked, held together with a wiretie...I glued it together when it dried I sanded down the high spots popped right on and holds ....saved $52.50 :-) ....... I used it once on a 85 Dodge diplomat...... the driver side power window button worked one way..... I took it apart found there was a plastic piece was worn away that pushes on a metal contact........ I drilled a few small holes in the part for J.B. to hold onto built up the part ..When dry ,filing and sanding the part.... Worked great......... lasted another 50,000 miles still working when i gave the car away(165,000)... saved me ???????$$$$$$ that switch had all four controls plus the window lock... P.S. That was the same JB tube(s) and still have more.... ? six years later....... Love the stuff