wal280z

Well, I'm in the process of doing that (among other things) right now. The engine is suspended in the car by a brace and chain (see http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14307&sort=1&cat=500&page=1) where I was able to remove the crossmember and suspension (cleaning/painting/replacing/repairing) so the task was 'eaiser' to do now than with the crossmember on. FWIW, I did not attempt to remove it while the crossmember was on. The transmission is still bolted to the engine, transmission is supported by it's crossmember, and the body is supported on the frame rails with jack stands. Note, I had very little slack on the chain prior to disassembly. My pan/gasket also seemed to be 'welded' together. I used a interior clip tool (flat stamped sheetmetal with a groove in it) to 'cut' the existing gasket and 'chase' it around the mating surface. Left no scarring marks nor did I bend the pan. Wayne

Not necessarly the right way, but FWIW, this is how I did mine. Without any stamping or the roller kit from Eastwood, I used the panel off my donor. I just didn't want the 'flat look'. I took the upper half of the firewall (from the donor car) where the battery mounts to as it was not rusted. I rotated it 180º so that the embossed sections matched up. see photo below~ If you are going to attempt this, I would highly suggest removing the spot welds that attach the firewall to the cowl in the area of 'donation.' I also had to weld in additional mat'l below the patch on the firewall due to cancer. I'll try to find and post a photo of the finished product. Good luck! Wayne

Jeffrey- What you have posted is the rear view of the TPS, throttle position switch. Attaches to the throttle body. Just to verify, there is a 3-pole (similar to the 2-pole injector BOSCH style) connector, right? Wayne

Banzai Motorworks has a good picture of it in thier online catalog. Click on 'Customer Requests' it is the 3rd picture down, labeled 'E-28' Wayne

I'm assuming you have the Datsun Factory Service Manual, as it has very detailed diagrams when troubleshooting the EFI. No such luck with Haynes, Chilton or Clymer. Also, FWIW, there is a scanned version of the '76 Wiring Diagram to download at take to your local copy place and enlarge it up to trace the wiring easier. 76 Wiring Diagram 'Right Click and Save As' Wayne

Does anyone happen to know which rebuilder/vendor MSA uses for their rebuilt steering rack unit? FWIW, MSA stated that they do not use OEM Nissan tie-rods. Wayne

With all that effort that you have gone through, what's another $140 for a new speedo? Wayne

Victoria British lists the backup light (71-591) switch for $9.95. Applications from the 240 to 280ZX. Toll free 800-255-0088 or online at www.victoriabritish.com. I purchased mine from them. Wayne

Sorry I'm not up to speed on the letter designations of the L28. What year car was the donor for all the EFI parts? Were you able to obtain all the related parts for the swap? Did it come from the ZX or earlier, first generation? Have you looked at the wiring diagram for the donor vehicle to see where the wire would have hooked up? If, the non US market cars were of similar format of wiring (and in this case, I am following the circuit for the '77, which may or may not be the same to yours) the W/R wire from the alternator provides 'main power' to all circuits, the W/R wire from the voltmeter is a fused feed off the main. Wayne

Yes, and no. The wiring was in place up to model year 1976, after that, it appears Nissan abandoned (for whatever reason) the idea of having fog lamps on the Z. Wayne

Scanned image of the '78 280Z wiring diagram (the one that folds out in the back of the FSM). 400dpi resolution, *.tif format (inside the zip file). Please remember that the '78 is different from the other year S30 models. Wayne 78-280Z_wiring.zip

No. Can any one give an explanation of why the part was replaced with a different part number for the same application? Was it due to a recall (was that word even used by a mfr back then) or some saftey application/defect? Was the originally fitted part a poor design and the engineers quickly went back to the drawing boards to fit a better part in place of the original? Did the original part stress and break while testing the vehicle? The factory already had so many of these parts 'on-hand' and not to stop delivery of cars, inferior parts may have been used. Remember, were talking about the late 60's / early 70's here. Was a part produced later (mid production year) by a different subcontractor (been reading too many of Kats posts) due to quality, quanity? I don't think this was really the intent of the poll, but those would be my reasons for doing so. I look forward to the other responses to come. FWIW, and only IMHO Wayne

The inside of my cowl had small dime sized holes rusted through, couldn't see it until the dash was taken off (the windshield arm location kept this problem hidden while looking into the cowl). FWIW, Wayne

Lincoln SP135. Bought it used for $300, paid for itself many times over. Had some fun building the cart. Can't wait until I have the $$ for a TIG. Wayne

On my '77 there is a conector 'block' above where the passenger's legs would be. Follow the main electrical (not EFI) harness in from the engine bay into the cabin and they route to a white plastic connector 'patch panel'. C-2 is the only black connector on that panel, again, for my '77. Different years may have different configurations and colors. Wayne

Anyone know what tap size you use for a M8 heli-coil? If it's M10, then there might be your answer. Thread the helicoil into the shift knob, then thread that arse'y onto the shifter. Note: I have never used heli-coils before, and therefore am only providing a suggestion I have used (with success) the thread repair epoxy, where you mix a 2-part epoxy glue, pour into the 'damaged threads' (in this case, your shifter knob), coat the proper bolt with a release agent, and let cure. When cured, remove bolt and threads are 'created'. The only other candidate I can think of are thread-serts, similar to a threaded pop rivet, and bind it into the knob. Wayne

I've pondered this myself, Ed. I've been looking at Eastwood's "Cold Shrink Tape" (item #25051) for some time. I had something from my late father's garage that looked like black electrical tape but w/o adhesive on it. It was a little stiff to apply, perhaps it comes with instructions. I plan on placing an order for it in the next month or two, if you beat me to it, let us know how it works. Wayne

alordzot- Last time I visited was about 6 weeks ago. Always call before visiting, to make sure he's open, especially on Saturdays. Has half dozen or so conex boxes in the back filled with parts. Tell him what you need; he may have it already pulled. PS - stay away from the white 260 on the right hand side, mid-way to the back. I still need to get the vinyl trim out of there. :nervous: Guess I know where I'll be on Saturday. We sometimes differ on price, but 'supply and demand' overrules every time. His email is ZPartsMan@aol.com, he usually directs you to call him anyways. PM me if you need directions. Wayne

FWIW, keep in mind that TABCO does NOT charge shipping (at least when I bought my panels back in Sept.) so it doesn't make much sense to go anywhere else. Quick shipping as well. I was very impressed with the sturdyness of the shipping box and the quality of the panels. I have some pics in my gallery. The price you see listed may not be the price you pay as steel prices have jumped. For example, the $24.75 price listed on TABCO's website ended up to be $28.95. The other vendors who by from TABCO will reflect a jump in price as well. I will be purchasing the whole rear quarter from them this winter. Wayne

What NAPA sold you was a generic relay, someone who plugs in the information to the computers and books said this might fit. I looked up the part number and it is listed as you say, among other applications, power window relay, cruise control relay, fuel pump relay and on and on... Please, take this part back and get your money back. I have studied my wiring harness up and down and there is no connector that mates to that relay. To use that relay, you would need to splice into your wiring harness. No need to do that. You stated in your first post that you replaced the ECU and the fuel pump relays, apparently from a junker. Do you still have the original parts to test? If nothing changed upon replacement of those items, there is a chance they are still good. Have you downloaded the EFI 'Bible', courtesy of Cardinal Zen? It is for the '75 model, but does carry over through the '78 model. Have you downloaded the colorized wiring diagram specifically for the '77? You didn't answer my earlier question regarding the fuel pump operation with the key in the "ON" position and the AFM flap opened. You should hear the fuel pump 'whine'. Did you also switch out AFM's while you were at the junkyard? Stephen, if you can confirm, I think the '78 does not have the fuel pump switch in the AFM, but is controlled by oil pressure. Can you confirm? Wayne

Can you describe the relay you purchased for this? Part Mfr, Part number, physical description.... Last question... what manual are you using for troubleshooting? To my recollection, an ACCESSORY relay is for accessories (i.e. radio, interior lamps) and not a major component in vehicle operation. To the best of my knowledge, the '77 did NOT have such a device. Either you have been sold an incorrect part or it has been described incorrectly by your manual. Who was the publisher of your manual again? I have skimmed through the FSM by Nissan, Haynes, Chilton, Clymer and Motorbooks Internationals and cannot see where an accessory relay is called out in the fuel pump circuit. Is the fuel pump connected properly? With the key in the on position, and the flap to the air flow meter (AFM) opened, does the fuel pump operate? This site has more than enough to offer, use the search key for your benefit. Electronic Fuel Injection Relay is underneath driver's side 'left knee' Other relays located on relay panel near passenger side panel and under relay bracket in engine compartment. Wayne

getting close.... hopefully I can get it done in time so the club member's get a Christmas 'present' on the screen. Mike hasn't gotten back to me yet. (unless you want to put your monitor under the tree and log on... ) Wayne