wal280z

I always get the phrase "You ain't from around here, are ya boy? Cliff knows the interpretation - ya better state your business before I introduce you to my Winchester.

I bought an off-the-shelf flywheel from Rock Auto. Took it to my local machine shop with the diagram in Post #3 of this thread. It has a real nice feel and combined with a 3.90:1 diff, really good off the line butt dyno.

Shawn, You have issues with your dome light switch, as you have asked for guidance here >> I was not able to test this as when I went out to test it, my bezel shattered. And my ability to turn the dome light on and off at the dome light. I *believe* that normal operation is that the dome light is ON or OFF In the ON position (which I think you have), the dome light is ON, ALWAYS. Door switch does not change that. In the OFF position, the dome light is OFF until you open the door and then the dome light lights. Have you checked into replacing your broken dome light? Z Car Depot has them available, I just ordered one. Here's the link >> https://zcardepot.com/collections/lighting/products/dome-light-lamp-lite-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78# The OEM Nissan Part number is 26410-E4101 if you wish to investigate other purchasing options. I think you have multiple electrical issues that are compounding to your troubleshooting. PS - The power supply in the fuse box is in the INNER side of the fuses. So make sure you have power there before checking the other side. Just my 2 cents.....

Jim, There are hotels between your home and Colorado Springs. You don't have to be the Hulk and drive it in one day. Would like to buy you a beer. In Colorado Springs.

One month to go!!!! WOOHOO!!!!!!

Jim, had to edit your response. The fuse is in the fuse block. From the factory. (In the spirit of I went downtown, to look for a job... but there was no job)

To add to the confusion... from the microfiche... It appears the issue is mid model year 1975... 54Q-1 is for model year 1977-78 54F-1 is for model year 1975-1976

Sounds like great Friday night dinner plans to me!!! I was going to say the first round is on me - but NOT with THIS crowd..... I'd have to dip into my 401k!!!!

Getting close to the 60 day to kick off..... @SteveJ, @Patcon Sorry to hear you won't be coming. Charles, I had something for you (actually for your boy - a diecast 510 wagon. @S30Driver @Zup, glad to hear the Arkansas Jim's will be there @Captain Obvious You can do IT!!! @ETI4K you weren't zipping around the county roads south of Lynchburg 2 weeks ago?? Saw a yellow 240Z heading in the opposite way coming from Hwy 501

Let's hear who's IN, who's OUT, who is on the fence. I'm in, but only for the weekend pass. Won't be driving the Z. Looking forward to seeing some west coast members!

Many errors have been found in that version and fixed with later revisions, It is now Revision 'N' The diagram in the download section is the diagram that you need.

TE Connectivity is a good source for finding the detailed drawings and part numbers. Great source. Skilled? Thank you for the kind words, but when I did mine is was more like a paint by numbers and trace.... Call me if you get stuck or need some re-configuring of the connector blocks. I didn't think of that when I sent you the drawing.

@Martino Not sure if it is for sale or not , but @brunodoggy posted his find in this thread Mine would be for sale but there is a $50K fee for me to sign the title over..... Good luck with your search.

Rocket Wheel? Circa 1979?

At first look, my last remaining brain cells screamed "Appliance Wheels" But, it goggled Appliance wheels and came up with this link. http://vintagewheelcatalogs.com/ Thanks to the creator of that website for preserving vintage catalogs!

Do yourself a favor and delete that copy from your computer, and download the latest revision from the download section of this forum. Are you referring to the 6 pin connector circled on the attached screenshot? If so, it's not by the fuse box.

I was - I cancelled my suite last night at the host hotel - had a reservation prior to this Covid crap. Anyone looking to get some last minute reservations should fare well. Good luck to all those who attend and stay safe. And take lots of pictures, dammit!

Question - Does the data plate on your car match the serial number of the block? If so, you may want to hang onto the block. It may add value to the next owner. If the numbers are not matching, then it looks well suited for a submarine anchor. Already has the patina to match. Mount it on a wheeled dolly to make the moving easier. Then you can reattach the head so you don't misplace it (You realize that this is the first baby steps to hoarding) Other observations and questions - The dipstick is missing - I assume you had already removed it. Did any oil register on it? Did it look like oil or maybe swirled like chocolate milk?

@Patcon - glad you found something that may work. I would have been digging through my stash looking for a busted balancer and recycling it for the purpose at hand. I hope the key way widths are the same between what you ordered and the L-series.

Did you look in HELL? Michigan trivia wins again. Yes, There is (or was) a Hell, Michigan. I recall a story about the loss of tax revenue a while back Actually closer to your inquiry than Detroit. Sorry, I couldn't resist. Good luck with finding what you need.

Access port hole *should* be on all post Aug 76 models. Key #34. Did not search for 2+2 applications. Unsure if the microfiche sold by the club covers *only* export to US models...

Anyone near Austin TX? This gal has seen better days.... The front spoiler/air dam is.... interesting. Looks like this one had those optional 'gull wing' inspection lids... or, someone was trying to access the hood release the hard way.

Although it's not Saturday night, here is something to lighten the mood... https://ultimateclassicrock.com/social-distancing-songs/ They did miss one... All by myself by Eric Carmen Haven't read through the whole thread to see if this in here, but, S A T U R D A Y Night S A T U R D A Y Night Bay City Rollers...

The heat selector appears to be functioning correctly. It appears as though the missing vacuum line is for the recirc / fresh air intake. The vacuum controlled water cokk would be in the closed position, as mentioned previously. Do you have a MIGHTY VAC or similar? Hook up the non-connected vacuum line WITH THE ROUND GROMMET lying on the floorboard to engine vacuum. That should be the source line that would normally be connected to the magnet valves @Captain Obvious has mentioned. Move the mode selector to HEAT or DEFROST. Move the temperature to HOT When vacuum is applied, the small flaps should open (as well as moving the internal flap which directs the airflow over the heater core). Note, the defroster tubes *SHOULD* be connected to the heater box cabin side of those small flaps. Do you feel heat? Download the FSM as suggested, it has a wealth of diagrams to show what flaps are in what position for normal operation. Might need to take another picture on the OTHER side of the heater box.

How are you testing for heat? Turning fan on and moving temperature selector to hot? Note: the heated air is not designed to come out of the vents. In order to get heat, the mode lever of the control unit needs to be in "Bi-Level", "Heat" or "Defrost"