wal280z

I'm new here too, but take a look around, this site has alot of good info, I'm still learning stuff when reading through posts... if you ever need parts, check out Midwest Z for those hard to find parts... Wayne

Sifer - you have a PM... GunnerRob I'm pretty sure the door panels are not the same for the 76 to 77 models... I found this out the hard way. Found a set of pristine panels off a 76 but the door lock position is in a different (further back) location than the '77 - '78 models.

the vacuum bottle is there to 'store' the vacuum under low vacuum conditions i.e, you just pressed your brakes and the master vac. booster just used all the vacuum you had out, but you could still switch modes on the heater panel.... If you blocked off the side vents from the center splitter, then of course you will have increased air volume coming through the center vents... no where else for the air to go... So the question remains... did you remove the evaporator on top of the control unit, or did you leave it in place? If you have removed the compressor, and subsequently purged the lines (*legally, of course) of freon, then you really have no need for the ten or so extra pounds the evaporator adds on.... I just checked MSA's catalog, the control unit for the non-a/c cars is checked with an 'A' (or as I like to say, don't hold your breath), to remove the solenoids and vacuum bottle, you really need to go with a non A/C control unit. Time to take off that dash... and don't forget to change the instrument lights while you have it torn apart... Wayne

already removed all the a/c components? you can still use all the a/c controls with the evaporator missing, just make sure the blue wire that goes to the a/c compressor is insulated. other than that, remove the evap. from the control unit, keep your vac. solenoids and vac. bottle in place, check all your vac. lines for being cracked or brittle. You'll need the air 'horn' that will take the place of the evaporator (fits between the heater housing and the 'manifold' for the duct work). If I had a camera handy (it's at work), I'd take a picture of my old control arse'y (non A/C), you'd see that it has 'notches' rather than springs that you are referring to in your other post.. I'll take a picture of it on Monday for you to show you the differences in the A/C and non-A/C models... Also... if you do have a donor '76 that you are grabbing the parts off of, the blower motor is different also... 4 wire connection rather than 6 wires.. Hope this helps... Wayne

grommet for the a/c pipe connections at the firewall... if it is in good condtion... they are NLA from Nissan (I just checked). However, I did get a plug from Nissan (last one listed) for that firewall opening if you are interested. :devious: Mine had an aftermarket A/C unit in it that I quickly removed. Upon dissassembly, I found out why the heat worked no more... one of the cable connections on the control unit had broken, requiring replacement, which I added a factory A/C in from my donor car. Be sure and grab the whole heater unit complete as the vacuum controls you are getting rid of will have the cable controlled items in place of them. While you are in there, go ahead and put new weatherstripping on the mode door for a good seal. Wayne

I just acquired (for free, yippee) a complete a/c & heater unit from a '76.... my '77 looks the same. Not sure about the '78 model though....

Which wiring diagram are you working on in AutoCad? For a '73 or your own custom type that has since been derailed? I've got a FULL color diagram that I am almost ready to release for the '77 model around the first of the month (May '04), just doing some clean-up on it... it will be a pdf version... Currently working on a '75 Version, however, the warmer weather has derailed me on that project... It will be posted on my homepage, clicky on the sig... Wayne

looking for the firewall grommets for the heater pipes and A/C pipes. Just the rubber. PIA to remove, need to basically gut the interior out. Wayne

Midwest Z does a fantastic job in getting NOS parts and hard to find stuff. Don't know how they do it, but they do it! Highly recommend them! I would recommend getting the genuine hoses for inside the cabin, as they are preformed and make the job go a whole lot eaiser, aftermarket is suitable for the engine bay stuff. Wayne

with me.... check your e-mail. you aren't by chance selling on eBay that '77 NOS hood w/ a dent, are you? Wayne

if not, email me at wal280'AT'yahoo'DOT'com of course, change 'AT' to @ and 'DOT' to . Wayne

n/m

I take it you haven't looked in the download section yet, eh?