wal280z

Question - how many bolts have you removed from the 'horizontal" heat shield? I am assuming by horizontal you mean parallel to the top of the valve cover / parallel to the oil pan.... I was able to 'feel' 6 fasteners - one each under #1, #3, #4 & #6 runner, and two under the main intake - one of the fastener locations can be seen very clearly in Cliff's photo - view an imaginary line from the front - outside of #5 intake, and then draw down to the bottom of the intake. Sorry, no photo editing capabilities to circle it.

Does this mean we are going to see you at ZCon 2020???? ?

You may not need a color version, but ya can't just think about yourself. The need has been shown. Take one for the team and publish a color one already/

@Jeff Berk @Kurbycar32 @SteveJ Since y'all have 260's, and I have a 1977 280 ( which there is an available color diagram ) anyone want to swap cars and titles so i have a NEED to make a color diagram for a 260z? Just a thought. I laugh at my thoughts. Coincidentally, I have a few free days coming up myself. Wayne

@z3beemer Hi Paul, FYI - the links may be dead, but the information is still here, but you'll have an easier time finding it using this work-around The 'old' site prior to the software update in 2015?16? is located at http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php Here is an example of a broken link https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Now, with some 'doctoring' using notepad, you can 'splice the two links together' like this >> http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Here is showing what is deleted (shown in bold red) on each link and delete any remaining spaces.: http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html I am unsure of the work-around for pictures. Once you find the old thread, you can search by title/date/author to find it here if the old site doesn't show the updates to the thread, if any. hope this helps you and others in finding older information. Wayne

@dmuzial, congrats on your purchase. Looks like a very stable starting point. Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section. It's been through several revisions since posted back in 2004 Wayne

I have my reservations too, and I booked a room yesterday.

Tag for Fred @zpizzaman20

@Jeff Berk - I think you got lucky. Somewhere on this site, @zclocks advised against using any oil in the clock mechanism, sorry I can't provide you the direct link to the write up. I'll try using the contact cleaner on my spares. Hopefully zclocks can add his link for all to benefit. Took me a few minutes to find, but here's the link >

@SteveJ - I haven't been following this as intensely as I should, but did you change the tank to a later '75-76 tank for FI applications?

Gotcha. Best to follow @SteveJ advice in post #5. If your fusible link upgrade didn't address any of the factory splices at the 'T' in the harness directly below the original fusible link location, that should remain suspect until verified that all connections are good. Note, when you connect the fuses on your upgrade, and you still don't have power as described - give the 'T' portion of the harness a slight twist. If you hear relays clicking, that's part of your problem. As far as the other gauges - you can check the fuel gauge operation by grounding the yellow wire on the connector that connects to the sending unit connector. (I don't have a 78 FSM, but on the '77, it is shown in detail 'a' on pg BE-94 (dash harness wiring layout).

@tleverett(Emphasis in bold) That's the way I wired my headlight relay power source. It is not the way the factory wired it. Please don't mistake my modification to the way it should be wired.

Appreciate the kudos @SteveJ, but I didn't do the '78 version.. Only the '77 is what I can take credit for. I believe the 1978 version is courtesy of @awolfe, I found this thread >> but I believe @Captain Obvious was kind enough to post that to the download section.

@Captain Obvious - you aren't OCD, are yoU? To add to the conversation - I recall my original lid was a hard plastic - like ABS as Chris describes. My current one is a padded type with about 2" of foam covered with a vinyl type material. I'm too lazy to take apart a functioning part. I mean, who would jump out of a perfectly good airplane? Insanity!!!

@Zed Head To me, a NON EGR intake = less parts to replace when they go bad. Same logic I use when it comes to under-achieving engines that get turbo treatment from the factory. KISS* principle. Might not be appropriate to current emission laws, but KISS*. *to those just waking up = KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid

Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution. I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................

What you may find, is upwards to an inch or more from the bare wire connection, there is additional corrosion that won't help your situation down the road. Although I can't find it now, there are (were) some crimp-able type connectors available. That is what the factory used - in some instances, a 4 into 1 using 12-14 AWG. Although bulky, you could use some terminal blocks (2 terminal type) to connect the wires together. Then wrap the crap out of it. Bulky, yes. Serviceable, yes. OEM, no. <<this would be considered a 'BUSH FIX' (sometimes bush fixes become permanent, thanks @Captain Obvious) @SteveJ and others will be able to add better ideas on how to CORRECTLY splice and connect.

Got the same email - you're closer to it than I am. A day at the junkyard beats a day at work is my saying. Of the 50 Datsun results, about 17 were ZX, 2 were Z, the majority of the rest were pickups, and other compacts, plus 2 300ZX

Found this old gem while accessing the attic... From the Petersen Publishing Group, ISBN 0-8227-5026-0, copyright date of 1978 Shows a full pictorial (8pgs) of the modification of a 240Z to Evel Knievel's custom car (I don't recall it being in any stunts) Not that I like that, but do respect the skills that Carl Green used to 'save' a 240, way back when. I apologize in advance if the pictures are rotated wrong.... @Patcon Also found some very dated body repair / painting publications if you want them

Slim pickin's are getting fewer and fewer now... only 2 '77 280Z's nationwide. I still recall when we would get a S30 every few weeks at the local PNP. Back when gas was $4 a gal. Those were the days...

Been there, done that. And now, confirmation that I was not the only owner with THAT problem. (Sorry about that0 see the thread at >> for some pics of the issue I fought with. Looks better than what I started with. Let me know if you need some additional white / red stripe wire. Got lots from the old harness I pulled out. Mine was green instead of rusty. NOTE: See the electrical tape covering the two wires in the picture? If you have THIS condition here, you may the same condition THERE. Not as bad as the "While I'm there disease" but more of the "Let's prevent another disaster"

Please explain on how the blocks are wrong in the wiring diagram. What diagram are you using? There was much discussion on how the wiring diagrams were messed up regarding the LOCATION of the fusible links on the front fuse block, see the thread by @EuroDat on fusible links. Wayne

Not seeing any rebar.... Agreed, what intrigues me is the black tubing running parallel to the valve cover, does a 90 degree bend downwards (by the hood latch) through a ???? then under the intake..... I don't have a '76, but THAT is not stock, OEM or whatever you wanna call it. I know you aren't me, and I'm not you, but $5K is just too much for that non-EGR intake...

Question - Did YOU do the splicing, or just repair what was already done? Did you OHM the connections prior to re-splicing? Wondering if one of those connections got switcher-ro'd. There was a recent thread about fusible links created by @EuroDat and all evidence has pointed to the Factory wiring diagrams being incorrect from 1976-1978 - the front most fusible link holder being suspect.

Great picture Jim... If this was a gathering of British made vehicles, the floor would have to be mopped for oil. LOL. I say that in jest, but ya'll know it's true.. ?