wal280z

That's not a resistor. That's the condenser for suppressing radio noise.

Since you are asking the question, can we safely assume that you did not upgrade the disk brake conversion bracket? Everything on the (pictured) rear suspension looks crusty, except for that nice new bracket. Was there any grinding or other noises observed while the car was in motion?

Is it me or does this taillight harness appear to be spliced? (black heat shrink)

The tach resistor is clearly pictured in Post #17, first picture of this thread... >>> https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62552-78-280z-turns-off-with-turn-signalreverse-lights/ <<<<< Off center to the right, the *BLACK* rectangular plastic housing shown here is the tach resistor. Thanks to @Usain_Boat for uploading his picture.

When does it get silver painted? My new one is natural black rubber finish.

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short... I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site.... Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams... https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

While you are at this point, you may want to replace that rubber grommet shown in your picture with something newer.... see this thread > https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60855-280z-replacement-ac-line-rubber-gasket/

You have a budget. The 3 Z's you have you have indicated are basically donors, at best, otherwise you would have embarked on fixing at least the best of the three. The cars you have in storage could be donors for your (and others) projects. Maybe others can add to this list. Interchangeability of parts - Off the top of my head: Doors changed in 1977 model year. Only 1977-78 are interchangeable with each other. Unsure about the 2+2 models. Bumpers for 1977-1978 were the same. 1974, 1975 and 1976 were year specific and can be modified to fit other years - not that you would want to. Introduction of EFI in 1975 - Most parts are interchangeable, however, each year had particular changes in the wiring diagram. Others can help you narrow down on what to strip off your inventory, and others may be interested in the carcass to be able to get their project on the road - a win win. You can add money to your budget by selling off what you really don't need, but it sounds like you already have the hoarding disease..... As do I and so many others.... This may help you narrow down on finding what you really want, and have spares for. Good Luck.

The heated air will NOT come out of the vents. That is not how the system is designed. @Captain Obvious and I have had lengthy discussions on possible improvements. The three positions of the control panel will be Bi-level, heat and def in order to get heated air from the system. The two places that the heated air will exit is at the heater flaps or the defrost tubes. Did you check the operation of the heat with the mode AS heat or defrost? Attached are two pictures - One is showing the outside of the heater case that shows the SMALL flap the heat will come out of, the defroster tube, and about midway up, is the mode door flap that controls if the air from the fan passes through the vents or the heater door. Second picture shows the inside of the case. The mode door could be lacking insulation allowing air to leak to the vents, or as @Mark Maras, @grannyknot and @Zed Head have eluded to, the heater control valve, cables or vacuum system (if factory AC equipped) is malfunctioning.

If your wife gets mad at you for spending countless hours looking at the site linked below, it is NOT my fault. You just have no self control. Found this while looking for something else (we've all been there, and then SQUIRREL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) https://archive.petersen.org/pages/home.php All of the photos do have a "P" watermark on it, but some amazing pictures taken back in the day... For those who don't know or can't remember (like me), Petersen Publishing created the magazines of Hot Rod, Car Craft and the like... If you click on a photo, there is an option to request a copy. Not sure of what costs are involved with that, I confess. Enjoy

@zpizzaman20 is Fred.

Not mine, but might be better than what you have, and appears to be better than @GGRIII https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/d/philomont-280z-hood/6881131121.html

One thing I have learned - I found a Snap-On dealer stopped at a local garage. He has what you need. 10/12mm flare nut wrench. Best investment you will make dealing with these connections. Not sure what they are priced at now, but it was a hard bite at $12 for a single wrench when I bought mine. Has paid for itself many times over by NOT rounding off the nut on countless brake lines....

Got to agree with Greg @gwri8, even if this was not his thought pattern - Nissan is the OEM parts supplier -- Z Car Source and the other vendors, purchase from Nissan, and will sell Greg a set of fusible links, as well as Jon, Jane, and ... They will order a set of 10 to re-stock, (hopefully) ensuring the 'demand'. Once the demand decreases (and Nissan no longer stocks this part) the price goes up. Of course, this just my $0.02 that isn't worth a penny...

Thank you - I have been blessed by your skillful review and I'm confident we are at the end of the revisions. I'm pretty sure you'd sleep better at ZCon... LOL.... Seriously, a huge thank you to you and Chas for being so patient with me with this revision. A special kudo's goes out to @EuroDat for starting the recent fusible link thread to confirm what was already suspected. I also wish to thank all of the private messages I have received regarding this diagram. I appreciate and am also humbled by all the kind words regarding this diagram.

Now that all the (known) issues have been addressed and edited, I have updated Revision N to the download section. Changes to Revision N 1) Fixed wire colors going to oil pressure sender and tachometer resistor. 2) Changed fusible link positions to reflect correct positions on vehicle. 3) Changed internal picture of alternator. N77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

Yes, indeed. I (wrongly) *thought* that you were looking at the table, and either was dyslexic or typed in the information you saw backwards. Until I opened the fiche, zoomed into that feature to 150%, it became clear to me at that point that there were 3 key #5 and one key 6 in the picture. With all the information discussed earlier, we can safely assume that the key numbers shown in the picture area are backwards. I apologize for responding that way, it was uncalled for, as well as inappropriate to add in this discussion.

@Zed Head I think that you are TOO focused on minutiae. You can see the forest from the trees, I hope. As the pictorial diagram you re-posted, yes, Key 5 and Key 6 are the fusible links. Key 6 shows THREE 0.3 fusible links and Key 5 shows ONE 1.25 fusible link. My post #59 was to show that the factory diagrams AND fiche MATCH the MISTAKE of placement of the fusible links.

Maybe you need to see a doctor... or optometrist... Key 6 = 3, Key 5 = 1 I understand mixing things up, I do it all the time....

Not to beat a dead horse, but I got a hair up my asre'y and decided to look up what Nissan published in the fiche... Same error of misplacement on the location of the fusible links... Maybe Nissan had it right (in the design), and the (unknown) manufacturer of the wiring harness had a oops moment.... for all of the whole production year(s).... how DEEP shall we DIG.....

The brown fusible links were replaced by 30A Maxi-fuses. Why? Fusible link "D" has the most draw on the right-hand side of the fuse-block inside the cabin. It hasn't blown. I didn't want to start high and end up melting the inside fuse-block. The alternator output is at an 80A maxi-fuse. My memory is going to the crapper and that crapper is flushed multiple times a day, but, if I recall correctly, I found a internally regulated 65A alternator from a early 80's Maxima in the junkyard. There's a 60A Maxi-fuse, and there's an 80A Maxi-fuse. Which would you choose?

I was thinking I was an isolated nut case..... I'm not the only one that does that!!!

Call it what you want.... I've got 2 (well, one now since I used a slot for my headlight relay feed) spare +12V fused feeds that I don't have to tap off the battery. No gremlins and no maintenance. Nothing about this screams 'bling'.

If this falls through, DIBS

@Captain Obvious Bruce, I can't read minds, nor do I wish to, that's just a 'B' grade Sci-fi movie mixed with an episode of the Twilight Zone... NO THANKS.... I do know that for the 1978 model year, that the wiring harness changed with an internally regulated alternator as well as changes in where the fuel injection relays. That said, post #12 I posted a snip from the 1978 diagram. Given our off-line conversation regarding the actual location of said fusible links in the 1977, can we assume that the carry-over of the mis-placement in the 1977 diagram to the 1978 diagram? Seem logical. It's happened before. That said, I don't have a 1978 harness to trace or verify the placement of said links.