wal280z

@Zed Head THIS post, was for @7tooZ dilemma on his '71 270. I cannot comment on @saridout 's diagram as I have not studied it nor do I have a 1976 to compare it to. That said, although I did not scan the cover to PROVE it was a 1976 diagram, I assure you and others that it was from a 1976 FSM. As shown in the other active thread, @SteveJ posted a diagram from Xemon's site, to be from a 1977. It is, in fact, NOT. I'm not blaming SteveJ, nor am I pointing fingers at Xenon.... i do understand that, with an overload of information, files may have been saved in folders/files due to whatever factors were involved. This is just a small part of MISINFORMATION..... I mean, the internet doesn't lie, right? I apologize for not answering your question directly, now, back to 7tooZ's thread....

I realize you spent some money for that diagram, but have you checked the download section lately? @EuroDat produced some very nice color diagrams for the 240's and may help.

Chas & others, Here are snips from the 1975 & 1976 diagrams. 1976 snip 1975 appears to only have 2 fusible links (besides any EFI fusible links) 1976 FSM Wiring Diagram has been uploaded to the download section. Thanks to Chas & Capt Obvious for the discussion for me to find these files! Wayne

Yes, but the OP has a 1978. Use of this diagram for your car may help, but it also may have you chase circuits that were modified for the 1978 model. Just saying. Each one of the 280 models had their own unique diagram, specific to THAT YEAR OF PRODUCTION. That being said, there may be some overlap between the end of model year and beginning of model years. @Av8ferg & @siteunseen, thank you very much for the kudo's. Hard to believe that diagram is coming up on it's 15 year anniversary... Where did all the time go? Wayne

@SteveJ - just to be clear - it appears as though someone may have mixed up files for that site. This snip appears to be for a 1978 model, when Nissan relocated the EFI Relay from inside the cabin (75-77) to the engine compartment (78-beyond to ??) I have uploaded the scan of the diagram from the back of my 1977 FSM that I used to create the colored version. It is now in the download section.

I get updates at least once a week for "new" Datsuns entering a network of junkyards (row52.com) Last S30 update was back in January... They are getting scarce... If this was local, it would be crushed by now

Well, I just went to my garage and took a picture of my ID plate, and honestly, $57+shipping is cheaper than trying to re-create the wheel. I think Zeddsaver nailed it.

This just reinforces the conversation @Patcon and I were having.... I guess I'm on the downhill side of the bell-curve...

Have you checked your previous posts? Lots of project cars posted, although most are ZX...... but, it will get you feet wet. Baby steps. My suggestion would be to look towards more modern cars (that are still being junked, cheap). 12 years ago I bough a rolling heap of scrap metal that I was able to dissect all the pieces and parts off it and that cost me $400. In today's dollars (by demand) that would be a $2K parts car. In 2004 I bought my 2nd Z for $3k - I wouldn't sell it for a penny less than $50K. Is it worth $50K? Nope. But that is what it will cost me to sign the title over to you today. Tomorrow's another story. Prices will continue to rise. Parts will still be NLA.

Thanks Mark - I forgot about him - I keep him in mind for floor pans. Thanks for the link! I still like my idea of using a 3D printer..... not that I need it for THIS application, but.......

I agree with Terrapin Z - someone used some aggressive cleaning techniques and removed the printed image. Similar process as a stencil - but screen printed. I *thought* you could get reproduction plates from zcarsource and/or Banzai, but both offer 240 plates while Banzai also offers a plate for the 260. So, ya got a couple options: a) Live with it, as it is (or tell a fisherman's story of how your ID plate is custom - note, this only works with someone that hasn't seen a Z) b) see if Banzai will pursue a reproduction tag for the 280's (you might have to pay for the up front costs) c) scan a good ID plate, and reprint that image onto your tag by: using a clear film as a sticker print directly on the plate using a suitable 3D printer and media screen-print it on (see option b) Probably another option, but I can't think of one now

No worries - I attempted the Maxima control unit and welded some brackets (big BOOGER welds, not proud of those) to attach as you mention above. It LOOKS like it belongs (not like the 1985 Mazda neon orange control unit I thought would work) inside the bezel.

Well, put THAT way, sure, I have his part...... but I haven't really investigated my options on a custom tail-light panel. @startt21 if you think their price is out of reach, my panel is $50K... it comes attached with a running drive train..... *Note* This is a today only special for any interested parties......

It's called supply and demand. They aren't making these cars anymore, so the prices will continue to rise..... If I had what you needed, I'd give it up. EDIT: I found another link for you - but it's not cheap either... http://www.car-part.com/

Are you using something off the shelf, recycle from the junkyard or custom "by Mark"? Years ago I found a 95 Maxima head-unit that fits in the 'green space' in the picture above https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88182-alternate-hvac-controls-in-a-280/ . Never got to wiring it up.... YET... your thread has given me alot of encouragement...

In MY experience, that doesn't work very well (for me). For this type of part - you need to be pro-active in the search. I would suggest contacting Z Car Source in AZ and show them what you need. ... https://zcarsource.com/ Good luck. Wayne

Don't ever say to your wife or significant other - "If you looked this good after 40 years".... Never ends good. Don't ask how I have acquired this knowledge...

@dmorales-bello Dave - You SERIOUSLY need to warn people of upcoming Z porn with those pictures you posted.. Those are some really SWEET parts. Nice... Drool... I'll be over in the corner looking at those pictures a little bit more... Wayne

Perhaps @SteveJ can offer an interpretation of what I offer... Using the AMP setting on your DVM, measure the amperage the Alternator is putting out.... Record this measurement. Next, find the +12v FEED to the black fusible link and measure the amperage draw at that point. Record this measurement. SteveJ can give you better advise on percentages, ratios and what not... If it is significant, hate to tell you, but you need to dig into your wiring harness for the disconnect..... SteveJ - I know I have not detailed on 'how to', but you have given excellent direction before... (Thank you!!) Wayne

Dude - I swear on the Bible I have never been to Seattle or helped you in person.... oh wait, you must be talking about someone else... ?

Looks like I need to clear my schedule to 'get r done'... I'll bring all my spare stuff but she does look like a good candidate. +1 there. I've got to figure out why my fuel pump cuts out when I lift off the accelerator. @Captain Obvious 'bush fix' has remedied that, but I would rather it work like it should (while modified, of course.... ) Wayne

Hey, how about that - it's got the fuel rail you were looking for! As far as a cam-oiler - gotta find the one somewhere in the garage.... I know it's out there, laughing at me every time I pass by it looking for it... Wayne

Chris, I whole-heartedly agree.... Coming of age in the 70's, turbo's were the rage back then, but now, as I grow older, I realize that turbo's were installed in under achieving engines to save money and add a big profit to the mfr. bottom line. Well, maybe not that much, I mean, Chrysler was bailed out in the '80's... Welcome the K-car.... Wayne