wal280z

@PatconYou know that voids your warranty right? ?? I bet a beer you even rip the tags off mattresses and pillows..... Buwhaaaahaaa Did you ever get the Toyota brake upgrade figured out? I have a set I got from the junkyard for core use but just boxed them up. You want?

I noticed that the top picture is from a 75 (possibly even 76?) I'm not exactly sure when they changed the connectors from the smaller size to the larger size connector blocks. The lower picture is for a 77 or 78. 10 pin connector is the give-away for model fitment.

I found this out the hard way after finding some pristine cards in a 76 model (IIRC, they were much plainer, without the faux wood grain and stitching) to use in my 77, but found they didn't work.

@wheee! I recall that the door cards were changed in the transition from 1976 to 1977. The cards pictured APPEAR to be identical to my 1977. The inside door lock location is the key difference. My measurement from the edge of the door card to the center of the lock is 8 3/4". Not that it's any of my business, but would hate for your luck to pay for the parts & shipping all the way up to the great white north and find out they won't work on your car. I see that the OP has some 1977-78 parts (mostly gauges) and may think that all are identical, or possibly the parts came to him without knowing what year they came out of. @OB's 280Z The only gauge I see from a 75 (76) is this one.

It is REALLY disappointing that some members choose a negative approach to replying to members. Do I KNOW or have met @zspert ? No, But do I have a suspicion he DOES know what he is talking about.

@inline6 Thanks for looking. I did not see any etching of any DOT style markings on the windshield, and then looked at my driver and did not see any on that one, either. I would assume that they would be etched in the lower left hand corner of the windshield, but have nothing to compare to. As far as the state inspection sticker, I did email the Virginia State Police (in charge of the inspection process) and was told today that they had not computerized their records that far back. I can clean the front to show that there is no wiper streaks/gouges or pitting, but I'm sure that won't change your mind for your intended application. So, as far as dibs go, @rturbo 930, do you want this or pass for now? Wayne

Price drop to FREE plus shipping. I anticipate that the items to be able to fit in the smallest USPS flat rate box.

Can't really answer your question regarding Z-7, but here are pictures of what I found at an estate sale over the summer. SAE30, with zinc. Sad to say there were 3 cans of R12 there, should have picked them up for those who haven't done the R134 conversion yet.

Dang, I just realized my goof - I was looking at the ENGINE BAY harness, not the body harness INSIDE the cabin (as the diagram does show) Thanks @Captain Obvious for clearing up my confusion.....

Well, I looked at the harness I removed from my first '77 (splices and cuts everywhere), but could not find any EXIT point of the harness of the WHITE/RED STRIPE and the BLUE wire, noted as "FOR U.S.A." on the wiring diagram. What's even more confusing, and I double checked the original black and white from the FSM, is that both aforementioned wires are fused from opposite sides of the fuse box. Didn't realize that until just now. @Captain Obvious, @EuroDat, does that make any sense to you? I poured through the FSM and could not find any written documentation regarding this, even in the AC supplement (I had thought it may have been part of the AC sub-harness, but the FSM does not explain it, it only shows it on the fold-out diagram in the back.....

Hi Garrett, I took some pictures in the daylight.. Note, Based on the white paint, I recall that this was picked from the local junkyard, U-Wrench It, now a part of the Pick-N-Pull aka row52.com network. I looked all over the windshield and did not observe any etching. I looked on the back of the state inspection sticker and it has either faded or was never properly filled out at the time of inspection. The City of Hampton tax decal offers no identification other than the City serial number - not sure if the City would have records to indicate what year of vehicle it was paid for. As stated before, @inline6 gets first right of refusal. Wayne

@inline6 Watching the ZCon 2018 judges this year, I'm not so sure. I guarantee I never paid more than $600 for any parts car I bought and dismantled. PM me if you want and we can discuss options.

^^^ this, and desiccant bags don't hurt. Don't ask how I know.

@240z70 I apologize, I do not have the hinges or springs. You will be searching for a volt gauge from a 1976 model ONLY. In 1977/78, Nissan changed the font of the lettering of the gauges. edit: see the difference in the fonts in this thread.

@inline6 I don't recall what car I pulled this from. The windshield has been sitting in my shed for over 6 years. More than likely from a 280Z, but have helped others dismantle other year chassis, and I always remarked "You gunna throw THAT away??" Looking at the pictures, there is no tinting, nor any etching from a Japanese company. I can get better pictures this weekend if desired. First dibs goes to you as the OP. Second dibs goes to @rturbo 930 I'm guessing I'm halfway between both of you, biggest expense besides time and gas will be getting a cardboard box large enough and cushion wrap so that it doesn't break during delivery. Yes, all dirt, dust and white paint along with the out-dated oil-change sticker are included at no charge.

What year door springs? I have a 1973 firewall section that has the door hinges on it. Give me a day to take a picture when Mr. Sun comes back to my side of the earth... Wayne

Sarah, You will be missed, but I hope that you come back and visit once in a while. Ya gotta watch out with Charles... he might be a stalker.... oh wait that's ME.... (gotta sing it like Train does) I digress.... Sarah, if you ever need to turn wrenches and don't have the space, you might wanna check out what's on this side of the water... https://americandiyg.com/adiyg/ And to all those that are not in this neck of the woods, they ARE looking to franchise... Let me know if you need anything - I know a few Miata peeps... Wayne

Hi Charles @Patcon, I never needed a lift in the Uni-strut idea I posted. I attached the chains while the motor was mounted to the cross-member while it was still attached to the body and made adjustments to the chain sling (not shown) prior to removing the cross-member. I told ya I was cheap.... I can squeeze 6 Lincoln's out of a Jefferson nickle if need be... It's too bad hat I scrapped THAT car as it had so many good bits and piece... I sure wish that I could find that color code for that yellow... Not a Nissan OEM for that year. Wayne

Removed from a 1973 240Z. VIN HLS30-1630XX Buyer pays $5.00 USD + shipping from zip code 23462 Miscellaneous engine bay brake/clutch tubing clips, fasteners and seriously hard-as-brick-rubber isolators. Some are broken. If the rubber bricks are not needed, they can be tossed prior to shipping. I will not remove the rubber from clips that will need to be bent to remove the isolator. Yes, there are seven clips but only five fasteners. If you have done this before, you KNOW where the other two went.... Dibs to first to respond to this thread THEN PM me. Thanks in advance for helping me clean my garage out. Wayne

@jonathanrussell That sure looks like ALOT of work. I suppose I'm lazy IIRC, I left the transmission mount (to body) connected, but removed the nut that connected the rubber insulator to the transmission mount (body). Although I found out later that really wasn't necessary as I didn't change the angle of the engine to the body significantly. Wayne

@dmorales-bello This is what I did back in 2005... [New Photo Linked Below] The front cross-member is removed, as are the front fenders, and the engine was supported using Uni-strut as pictured, WELDED TO some Uni-strut pieces as an upside-down 'U' resting on the uni-body that is covered up by the fenders. It is best to remove the fenders, and position the support pieces in place PRIOR to welding. Found that out the hard way. Also, most have a coating on them, make sure you grind the coating off or you get booger welds that don't hold. Don't ask why I know this..... Sorry, I no longer have that Uni-strut assembly, but various lengths can still be purchased at home improvement stores, in the electrical aisle. EDIT:: If I did this again, I would change the orientation of the engine support strut for the 'top' of the "U" to face up, to provide additional welding surface on the body support struts... @Mike It appears as though since the last update in 2015, all previous images reside ONLY on the legacy site, is that correct?

I've seen a unique method with a bent valve (flat valve face keys into the tooth of the flywheel) and the end of the valve seats into a starter mounting hole. Sorry, never took a picture of it - If I recall it correctly, the valve stem bent 90 degrees. Geometry, Geometry, Geometry, Geometry... why didn't I pay more attention in high school...

OMG... I have a new 401K account in my garage... oh wait, I only have 280 parts..... Guess I have to keep my day job.

Awwwwww, did my car stress your biceps @Captain Obvious ?? Interesting topic. For the record, my specs for comparison, in case it is attributable. Tires: Bridgestone RE-11, 205/50 R15, UTOG of 200 A A, tires mfr date of 2009 (maybe?) with approximately 60% wear at the time of testing at ZCon. Larger front sway bar (although that should not effect the steering tension in a parking lot) Lowering springs with KYB standard struts.