wal280z

but check out the 'single point jack plates' here at http://www.baddogparts.com/ Gema- Are you still trying to salvage your car or only in the pursuit of a newer less rusty shell? Wayne

Therein lies the problem... you have the trailer, car is elsewhere... trailer needs to be 'relayed' up to the buyer, then 'relayed' back with the car on it. When I initally 'pea-brain-stormed' that idea, I would have drove 200 miles (50 miles up, 100 miles back, then 50 miles back home for one example, or 100 miles one way to 100 miles back and 'pass the batton') Find two (willing) people in the same City and you can really move a car. But, I'm sure that there are many 'holes' in this theory, syncronizing pickups, unplanned emergencies / breakdowns... I for one would have to rent a truck (my poor baby can barely haul 5 gallons of gas in it) Of course, spotting a trucker w/ an empty load wantin a few extra cash bucks in their pocked going your way would really help alot. Where's Keith (2ManyZs) to help out in some of the theory? Wayne

Hi Chris- Get a 'tag-team' of East Coast Z'ers to inaugurate a 'tow-the-Z relay' Seriously, if you are towing it yourself and crossing the Bay-Bridge tunnel, the tolls increased last month or so, now it's up to $12 one way or $17 for a 24-hour return trip. Yeah, I know that's chump change, but if you get a chance, stop on in. Beer is always cold. Haulers usually charge more for the non-operable cars. If you are going to part it, best to rent a u-haul. Wayne

Also, remote travel to family for an extended emergency, in unfamiliar city w/o internet access, only keeping ties (check-in's) with the only soul watching your place. Hospitals as a general rule do not permit cellular phones (being on) inside the facility. I'll try and send a fax tomorrow, unless someone else can before that... 1.800.839.1659 Perhaps the individual watching over the her home will see the fax and pass the news along. same here.... Wayne

Have you seen these guys? Not sure about shipping to over there... http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html Wayne

I called tonight but was only able to leave a message. Anyone know what her day job was? MCI just had a huge layoff there recently... Wayne

Hmmm.... I started off with 600 wet, finishing up with 1500 wet then using a dremel polisher to 'clean up' my sidemarkers and taillights... Plastic became nice and shiny as new (removed the DOT markings in the process), but it looks trick (as in old school trick, street rod style). Here's a fuzzy pic since the gallery is down... Wayne

Carl, I was thinking the same thing... it was earlier this month that it was listed...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2484003728&rd=1 and prior to that back in late 2002.... but I can't find the dern thread either..... Wayne

Carl- It was up to $2k, the eBuyer withdrew his bid(s) Wayne

Now that's some expensive bragging rights.... Wayne

and six days to go?!?!? any wagers on how much the final price will be? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485459700 Wayne

Were you able to send the seller an email? Mine was just kicked back. FYI, I also checked http://zhome.com/History/69ZArticle.html and it wasn't listed on the 'found' list as of 3/04. Wayne

:devious: Don't forget that electrical components have special smoke built into each of them....some have really rare smoke, making that component expensive... once the built-in smoke is released into the atmosphere, the component unfortunately cannot be recharged with it's special smoke and must be replaced... :devious: Like to see how this one turns out... Keep us updated Proxlamus.... Wayne

Check your turn signal flasher... the '77 (and I'm pretty sure the '78 is the same) has two flasher units, one for the hazards, one for the turn signals. I could be wrong but the hazard is more towards the drivers side footpanel and the turn signal flasher is mounted near/on the column. Mine is completely disassembled so I can't tell for sure, and the locations may vary from year to year. Wayne

If hinges aren't included and you need the hinges.... check here... Bad Dog Parts Wayne

Be careful you don't get bit by the 'bug'.... you know, the bug that makes you take something else off and clean it since now you can't have this new part bolted up next to the dirty old stuff... 6 years later you are still looking at all the nice shiny parts that can't go back on until you do this or that to the chassis... Do yourself a favor and throw the new t-stat housing around, get it dirty and then bolt it up... This is what I did to my new one I bought from MSA... Also, don't forget to get yourself a new temp sender (the single bullet in the picture) from them as well... Good luck... Wayne

taken a look through the gallery? Maybe find a picture that is similar and then direct people there, or even answer your own question. Just my .02¢..... Wayne

for one thing, you come out with stuff you weren't even thinking about... i.e., go to the store for chips, you leave with a 12-pack, steak, dog food, and you forgot the chips! :stupid: Same thing at the junkyard today! Went to UWI to pick up a battery tray, and started drooling over a *edit* '72 *edit* 240 (build date of 8/71) - It was unmolested as of 3 pm today. I was honestly suprised at how well this thing has held together... rusted out rear hatch panel, but the spare tire well was as clean (but now holding water) as when it left the factory. Battery tray rust? Only surface. Complete black diamond pattern vinyl still intact. Radiator looked new, but still had the metal fan shield intact. Also had dealer installed A/C. Didn't have my camera with me, but I did look through the gallery and this was the closest match I could find as far as the engine bay (it wasn't that clean, obviously) but all the parts (so far) were still there.... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=35&password=&sort=7&thecat=501 Looked like this one was stuffed away in a barn somewhere and some 'housecleaning' took place. Oh, and today, I remembered the battery tray. Wayne

Zbyter I use this only as a guide to my online buying and selling.. Would I buy from reddat? Nope, never again! Not if he was the only source for parts.... thank God for Chloe!!!! just my 2 cents.. Wayne

Wow... didn't get to review all the pics (but a good two hours spent while waiting until the neighbors wake up), but I'm saddened by the author settling and allowing for the repairs... Wayne

while Mike is upgrading the site.... until that comes back, click on this link to access it directly... 'right-click, save target as' >LINK REMOVED BY MODERATOR Sept 2012< Wayne ============= EDIT NOTE: An error in the fuse box was noted and the corrected PDF is available below E Scanlon Moderator

Not sure, that's on my to buy list.... you can pick up hard copy FSM's off eBay at least once a week.... just depends how much ya wanna pay... As for the wiring diagram, ZCarCreations has complementary wiring diagrams in a pdf format uploaded on their site. Pretty sure the '75-'76 is the same. Note: older versions of adobe won't allow you to 'save as' Also, when your key is in the 'on', open the flap up on the AFM. you should be able to hear the fuel pump buzz if everything is ok (and hooked up properly). Wayne

Let us know as there are several, minute, but several differences. The FI wiring is close to the same in all, but Nissan did make a few changes between the years.... Yes, there is a relay.... the year will tell the location of such... 75-77 is up underneath the drivers side dash, the 78 should be on the relay bracket in the engine compartment. The injectors are simply a small 'solenoid', allowing fuel to pass when the the signal is given. A FSM (factory service manual) has all the wires labled on the FI side, so ohming it out, although tedious, will rewire you correctly. Wayne