Henry the Kid

sounds good ill keep sending links....but remember i ordered the CD already!.....still checking the mail diligently lates H

mike and Z-priv: good looking honeys there. hope mine can look 1/2 as good....someday. mike i sent a couple of links..dont think you have them ill send more later. lates H

hey members...what going on everyone cruising today? Question: is there a difference between 72 and 73 stock distributors for auto trans? the dealer gave me different condensers than were on my distributor, my local parts shop gave me the correct ones..(i think). Like i said, my dist works fine, just wondering what was the orginal and what one i have. Not Found The requested URL /cdthanks.htm was not found on this server. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Apache/1.3.19 Server at www.240z.org Port 80 the link worked well mike but this is the message i got after everything was said and done...i did get an email confirmation though..so i guess it works. thing is the snail mail order form link doesnt work...did you stop this? waiting for the CD, H

Hey! Its amazing what having clean, uncorroded contacts will do to your engine....they will let your engine start!...and run!....wow! just cleaned all the contacts with sandpaper added some of that "bulb grease" to protect. then after putting it together, i finally got a good spark to the center terminal...cool....put the cap on and looked for a spark at #1 lead..nothing...i figured it would be another sad day at work wondering what was wrong..then i looked on the air filter, there was the rotor sitting all by itself. installed the rotor and checked #1 again, with the remote starter..and guess VROOM! i felt so excited i felt tingley all over. but wait thats not excitement..i was still holding #1 lead! i was getting shocked!..... Did notice pitted points and loose connectors..so i will replace...but its good to know that everything else works!...still thanks mike i will try that link tonight after work. oh yeah...with this post am i not a sissy riding member anymore? seems like a good day for it. Later H CAUTION I learned the hard way, CAREFUL using the remote starter! i was lucky i didnt get hurt

hey thanks for the info mike. i kinda ran out of time this morning ( i was even late for work today!) so i think i will look a bit more closely at this problem. i like to buy all new parts too. especially given the age of the parts and being exposed to the elements. but i guess im just real inquisitive about exactly whats the solution. although im getting the feeling i may need to buy new stuff.....will advise. in other news. i got the rims blasted and have the fronts painted. think ill put another coat on... i finally broke down and bought one of those remote starter switches. wow that is a great tool. i guess you could make one for cheaper than sears but ..what the heck... i tried ordering the parts CD but was unable to make any progress...hmmm. thanks again later

Hi Everyone, In general, do condensers go bad if they are just sitting for long periods, maybe exposed to moisture? i dont think they do. any opinions? Specifically, ive been troubleshooting intermittant or no spark at the center coil lead. on page 74 of my trusty Haynes it tells the condenser test. now i believe they are talking about the condensers that are attached directly to the dist. (i have mechanical type dual contact breakers) i do get a spark when i separate the points but usually on the opposite point that i open. i dont think that they are talking about the condenser that is connected to the coil (+) i dont see where they address this condenser. Also, on pg 82 section 16 step 8 they are talking about moving points that ride on the cam arnt they? Shes been sitting since about 1996 when i started her up fine drove her around the block and parked her. im wondering if i just have to clean all the connections well. shes been sitting outside (i know, shame on me) thanks... Henry 73- 240

ok i know what your talking about..the wheel bearings...funny Clymer calls it the spindle and Haynes calls it the stub axle. They do look kinda involved but not impossible. the only thing that you would probably break is a body part trying to take off the wheel bearing locknut. its supposed to be 180- 240 ft-lb torque. ("do-able"). 250k is alot. they could at least stand a repacking of grease. if not replacing. there is an inner and and outer bearing for each wheel with a spacer and seals. the outer comes off with the spindle, via the slide hammer, then is pressed off the spindle with an arbor press or somthing suitable. the inner is driven out of the housing. inspect bearings, spindle, housing and spacer for piece of mind replace the bearings...if the spacer looks damaged, replace with the exact same p/n. i think its 'A', 'B', or 'C' and is stamped on the housing. install the bearings back the correct way. if you havent worked with wheel bearing that much you might want to try front bearings first. they look easier. but i would defintely recommend having a book near by if you havent done them at all. if you have time and patience...go for it...just think what youll feel like when you finish it!..Have i done it? not on the Z but i have done others. what i type here is my interpretation of the book. by the way, what book do you use? H oh yeah if anyone thinks im giving some bad advice, please give my your input....im no expert and i welcome criticism.

hi and thanks Mike. heres one....any known reason why i cant download the trial of the parts CD? i get a page cannot be displayed error...i have Adobe...maybe it was the transition to the new web site? thanks H

hey, im thinking that you are talking about the bearings L and R on the differential itself that support the yoke that that turns the axle shafts. my thought is this: i believe those would be lubricated by the oil in the differential. drain the oil and look for any big metal particles, that many miles would generate some fine particles, to be expected. i dont think you would find anything major since you dont have any slop. if your just gonna cruise around, flush and re-service the diff. if your not satisfied and are a little interested, open the inspection plate on the rear of the diff and check out the moving parts. a book i have gives a procedure to measure and inspect. (Clymer- 240-280z, 1970-1978) these are just to determine if you need to take it in. If your gonna race, i suppose you would do this anyways depending on the performance you wanted. in any case i didnt take mine off. but im thinking that the gears would fall if the slide hammer is used then that would be a real can of worms. you might be able to check out the bearings from the inspection plate removal. if your not talking about these bearings. WHICH ONES ARE THEY?! just kidding! later H

by the way what happened with your slide hammer decision? H

thanks for the info! actually i did replace the thermo when i started the refurb a couple of years ago and took a peek at the radiator....looked o.k. but since that time i hadn't taken the car out long enough to observe the problem again. (started a new job and such). actually what i did find...was some weird stuff....i found rubber plugs and 'screws' acting as plugs in lines to the carbs! someone had to put those screws in there thats the only way they could have gotten in there... im thinking that when my dad took the car to get smogged back in the 80's, they tried to pass it using those 'techniques'.. yeah saving money is of interested to me. thats why im thinking of blasting those rims and repainting them instead of getting new ones. thanks again H

Hi Gary, too bad about the bolt but you can fix it. sounds like you'll have to use an "easy-out". you drill a hole straight down the shank of the broken bolt about halfway down. then tap the "easy-out" firmly in the drilled hole. the easy-out has flutes that grab the broken bolt while you turn it counter-clockwise. most of the time it comes out, you may have to tap the easy-out back in a couple of times. turn it slowly and delibratley. if it gets stuborn on you, heat up the out side of the outlet around the broken bolt. if it turns into a disaster (probably won't) youll have to drill the whole works out, re-tap and go to the next size bolt. the easy-out kit which includes the correct size drill for your size bolt can be kind of expensive if you cant get it from a friend. good luck -H

Hello Everyone, just wanted to introduce myself. I found this site on a web search and it looks like a great place. I have what I believe is a 73 auto trans. (could be mistaken) Its been in the family for about that time. My sister is the original family owner. I drove it in college for a few years then it sat dormant for quite a few after that. A couple of years ago, I began restoration by just general cleaning in the engine compartment. All the while I was looking for a cause and solution to the problem I used to have while driving in college, OVERHEATING. The body needs a little work but its not too bad. Im about to get some new tires and possibly rims (or maybe restore the originals). I'll work on getting a picture on here. Ill have lots of questions. I think Ill get the answers here! Looking forward to coming back lots of times Later, Henry