kenz240z

Have you tried spraying a little contact cleaner on it? If you spray it a bit at a time around the perimeter of the switch it should seep down inside and hopefully help loosen things up.

Have you tried another set of injectors? Doesn't seem likely that all 6 would go bad at once, but maybe they are stuck open?

The only place I've found them is in the salvage yard.

I think that you will probably want to put the bump stops on. Before I rebuilt the suspension on my '73, the bump stops were missing. Either they deteriorated, or they were removed during a previous strut change before I bought the car. Anyway, any bump I hit darn near rattled the teeth out of my head. Of course, the struts were bad, too, but it felt like they were bottoming out on bumps. None of that any more, though! The suspension rebuild made a world of difference for my Z!

Have you adjusted the chokes? How about the idle screw on each SU, is either one (or both) turned in too much and causing the high idle? With the choke lever pulled back, the fuel nozzle should be pulled down from the bottom of the carb by about 1/4 inch. The fuel nozzle is the part mounted in the bottom of the main carb body and is connected to the float bowl with a small fuel hose. When the choke lever is pushed forward, the nozzle should be pulled up against the adjustment collar on the bottom of the carb. Is either one of the nozzles sticking, and not being pulled back up against the adjustment collar? With the engine off and the air filter box removed, you might have a helper operate the choke lever in the car while you watch the action on the carbs to insure the nozzles are moving properly. And as 240kman said, check the linkage to make sure nothing is binding and causing the high idle.

Hi Carl, (dat240z71), Here are some pics of my car, taken outside in the sun. I used PPG's Omni AU acrylic urethane paint, consisting of an orange basecoat covered with a clear coat. Here's the paint code and tinting guide that was on the can: MBC 69982 B Orange Tinting guide: M130 975.9 Orange M114 710.7 Yellow M120 82.2 White M118 45.6 Black M150 1815.0 Basemake Please let me know if you have any questions.

It sure is one very sharp looking Z car! Some of those pics might be helpful for 280Z owners looking to freshen up or restore their cars to original condition.

Not sure about price, but you might try www.tabcobodyparts.com they have a few repair panels for the Z cars. Looks like a nice one you've got there!

I re-painted my car orange, although it's a bit brighter than the factory code 918 orange. I re-painted the tail light finisher, license plate lamp, hub caps and grill the same matte finish grey. I like the way they look together. One caution with using black on an orange car: it may look like a halloween pumpkin!

Despite the twin filament bulb (1157) having the offset bulb, people do manage to get them installed incorrectly. I've been driving at night and noticed that one of the tail lamps on the vehicle in front of me looks a bit bright. Then, when the driver hits the brakes, the tail lamp goes dim.

Hi Michael, I like the Tokico struts & springs a lot, definitely made a big improvement in the way my Z rides & handles! I replaced the bushings with an Energy Suspension Hyperflex urethane bushing kit. I bought both the struts/springs and the bushing kit on e-bay.

I bought my '73 in April of 2003. The PO had brought the car to Longmont, Colorado from Arizona, with the intention of fixing it up. Instead, it sat in his yard for 7 years. Initially I wanted to find a Z car so that I could drop in a small block Chevy engine. Something about the sound of a small block with a street cam and a nice pair of glasspack mufflers coupled with the sporty design of the Z appealed to me...still does! Anyway, after starting to work on it I changed plans and have striven to keep it mostly stock. Being a purist about automotive restoration, I can't make the claim that my Z is restored, but it looks a damn sight better than when I bought it! As for problems, three things stood out to me: 1. The rear wheel arches, rear hatch and A pillars had areas that were rusted through. One of the most expensive repairs I had done was to have a shop weld in replacement wheel arches for $600. The other rust repairs I was able to tackle myself. 2. Fuel delivery issues caused problems with acceleration and top speed. For awhile, I couldn't get my Z to go faster than about 60 mph on the highway. I finally tracked the problem down to a clogged fuel filter in the electric fuel pump mounted back by the fuel tank. Replaced the filter and my fuel delivery problem was solved. 3. The suspension on my Z was shot. The smallest bump caused such a jolt it almost rattled the teeth out of my head. Turns out the strut inserts were shot and the bumpstops must have disintegrated, because none of the struts had one. I rebuilt the front and rear suspension on my Z and now it handles well, with a firm ride and the steering is tight. Most everything else I've done has been cosmetic: new paint, new carpet, new headliner, etc...

It could be an excellent deal for the parts. It looks like the dash is uncracked, although the seller doesn't specifically mention the condition of the dash.

Hi Gary, From what I know, the '73 240Z's had two fuel pumps: an electric pump mounted back by the fuel tank, and a mechanical pump mounted on the cylinder head. I think the electric fuel pump was added to help with vapor lock problems on the '73. Perhaps someone more familiar with this can add details?

Wow, a free Z! Well, I guess mine wasn't too bad, I paid a guy $300 for it to get it out of his yard. Kind of a similar story to yours, Kevin. The guy I bought it from had been planning to work on it, but instead it sat in his yard for 7 years until I came along... Sounds like you've got a plan for working on your Z, keep us posted, and don't forget to post some pics when you get a chance! Welcome to the club!