kenz240z

Greg, I like your 280Z rally car. Very cool.

Yipes, what a rake, David! A scary look for a Z car! Please say it ain't that way no more!!!

Ha, ha, that's rather funny! . . . . Ok, I had to get back up from the floor and into the chair...

That's one very sharp looking Z car you've got there! I've got the original steel wheels and Z hubcaps on my '73 240Z. Welcome to the club!

Hi Jezze, the fuel nozzles are located at the bottom of each carburetor. Look for the little rubber hose at the bottom of the carb. One end connects to the fuel float bowl, the other end connects to the fuel nozzle.

Have you adjusted the valves? Do the fuel nozzles move up & down ok, or is one stuck? Has any work been done on the engine recently?

Looks like a front carb off a 70/71 240Z. No water passages like on the '72 carbs. The spot were the pencil is inserted most likely had a set screw (idle limiter) mounted in it to limit the downward travel of the idle adjust nut. I've got one set of the early carbs that still have the idle limiters, but they are missing from the other set of carbs that I have. Nothing that will affect the operation of the carb. Also, mine have the old screw type spring clamps on the rubber hose that connects the float bowl to the fuel nozzle. I can't tell from the angle of these shots, but I don't see the suction chamber that is on the top of the carb. It houses the suction piston and damper.

Yes, there is a fuel return sysem on th older Z's. All the '72 FSM says is "This is a device which prevent vapor lock or percolation and to ensre a constantly stable idling in a hot engine compartment." I'd give all the rubber hoses a once over. Also check the hose that connects the float bowl to the jet at the bottom of each carb. There is also a flow guide valve mounted on the inside of the driver's fender that routes fuel vapors from the expansion tank (located inside the rear passenger side plastic panel) into the crankcase. You might check those hoses as well. The flow guide valve has three ports: one to the crankcase, one from the fuel tank and one from the air cleaner. They are labeled C, F and A, respectively.

Wow, from the looks of things, the floor pans will never rust out from the inside!

Hi Gregg, instead of cutting an access hole, you could probably accomplish what you want to achieve by using the hole that is there on the top of the mounting bracket. You might try making a dauber out of a bit of wire or a coat hanger and a small swatch of cotton. It should fit through that hole, and you could swab out the inside pretty well. There will be some areas you can't reach, but I'd think you could get to the backside of the seam along the floorboard. You should be able to bend the dauber to get to most of the inside of the bracket. This approach could be used to apply the Rust Mort, or similar rust inhibitor, and also for the POR-15. In fact, I think I've seen something on their website about daubers you can purchase to do this very thing. It was either that, or in the latest Eastwood catalog. If you decide to go ahead and cut an access hole, you might consider using a hole saw. Get a round metal plug of the proper size from the hardware store to plug it up, put a little strip caulk around the edge, it will help seal it and prevent the edge of the hole from rusting. Or, use a rubber hole plug. I doubt cutting a small hole would compromise the structural integrity of the mount by much.

Very nice, John! The weather here in Colorado has been on the warm side and I've had my Z out for a cruise quite a few times.

I really like the light blue paint on the early Z cars. I had my eye on one, but waited too long to try and contact the owner. I spotted it sitting at the back of a construction company lot in a small town nearby. It had been there for a couple of years that I can recall. But, last fall I was back in the area and it was gone...

I've seen a few Z cars with the engine bay painted black. From what I know, the engine bay was originally painted the same color as the body. Seems kind of like an old American muscle car kind of thing to paint it black.

Keep us posted with progress! I had my original engine rebuilt for just under $2k. Runs like a champ! I have the automatic, so not as snappy as a manual, but not bad if I shift it through the ranges!

Remove the ash tray and look at the paint on the transmission hump under the console. But, as has already been stated, it looks like you have already determined that the car was originally orange. A great color, by the way, but then my opinion is biased!!!

In the mean time, if each of you would kindly send me a dollar, I promise not to offer you anything at all in return! Ha, ha, ha!

Are you going to rebuild this engine, or the one currently in your car? You may consider rebuilding the one you just bought. Then it's only a matter of swapping the old one out and installing an exhaust that will fit the header. Save the original engine & transmission, that way you can always revert the car back to stock, numbers matching, etc...

To Bill and Montoyafan: Of all the vegetables, only the beet goes on...

Oneuthin, the VIN is stamped on the firewall above the brake booster, and to the right of the driver's side windshield washer nozzle. In addition to my love for the Z car, I'm also an old Chevy nut. I remember the discussion several years ago regarding reproduction ID tags for the '60's Impalas. Like Steve mentions about the GTO's and Shelby Mustangs, the Impala crowd was concerned with people converting a six cylinder car to a 409 V8 car and passing it off as original.

Hi deadflo, I've got the Tokico spring/strut combo with blue HP struts on my '73. Good, firm ride.

Good one, Enrique!

I had a MSA 6-2 header and turbo exhaust system installed by a local Z shop. These guys restore Datsuns & build race cars, they know what they are doing. The installation turned out great. A good exhaust shop can be hard to find. I've had problems with bad exhaust installations on other vehicles, not enough clearance between the bottom of the vehicle & the muffler, so that you get a nice rattle inside the car...annoying!

Kurt, looks like you got yourself a good project car there. I hope the trip to bring it home goes smoothly. I look forward to seeing your progress with giving this Z car a new lease on life!

I had a stubborn spindle pin that didn't want to budge. I took it to a local machine shop, but the fellow there said his press wouldn't be able to push the pin out. He suggested taking it to an alignment shop. So, I then took it to a local alignment shop and they managed to get it out. Apparently it took a combination of heat from a torch and the press to get it out. $250 seems a bit high for a transverse link/strut assembly. Are there any U-Pull it type of salvage yards near you? Might be worth a look. How about any of the Z shops that carry used parts?

Interesting, I wonder if it is a Zcar!