kenz240z

Looking good.

If you still have the electric pump that is mounted back by the fuel tank, open it up and check the filter inside it. I'll bet it is getting clogged with debris from the tank. Ask me how I know...

One thought, can you drill through the broken stud? If so, simply drill a hole where the stud was. When it is time to put it back on the car you can simply run a bolt through the hole in the sugar scoop and the hole in the fender and use a nut & washer to fasten it all together. I suppose the bolt could be "embedded" in the sugar scoop with a little fiberglass & resin.

I have a set of roundtops on my 73. I'm in Berthoud and could stop by sometime to compare. Send me a pm if you want.

Remove the drive shaft and you can tow the car with the rear wheels on the ground. Cover the tail shaft of the tranny to keep out any dirt and keep it from leaking fluid. Quick & easy way would be to tie-wrap a plastic baggie over the tail shaft...

Check your local hardware store. I picked up a coil of the closed cell foam at Ace Hardware.

My wife and I will be traveling to Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand (Bangkok) and Vietnam (Saigon) soon. I would enjoy meeting any Z owners in any of our destinations and checking out any Z cars I might find on our travels. And if anyone knows of any Z related businesses, shops, museums, etc... please send 'em my way. It would be very cool to bring home a Z souvenir, or two!

Have you verified that the fuel nozzles are not stuck? The nozzle should pull down out of the carb body about 1/4" when the choke is applied.

I needed a shift boot for my 5/71 240Z and searched the threads (including this one) for alternatives. Based on the reviews from others, I opted to purchase an early shift boot from Bryan (LBO730) here on CZCC. The new boot arrived on Friday and I installed it in the console on my '71 this past weekend. The quality is top notch and the fit & appearance are great. Attached are a few photos of the new boot, plus a couple compared to the old boot that I removed from the console. I am unsure if the old shift boot is original or not. It is made out of leather and doesn't have the pleat in it like the new boot. It does appear to have the correct original grommet, though. Hats off to Bryan for providing a great product at a great price!

Have you tried spraying a little penetrating oil between the key & the slot to see if that helps?

Clean all electrical connectors with Deoxit (or similar contact cleaner). Repair any wiring that is damaged. Inspect the heater core and related hoses/clamps for signs of leakage or deterioration, replace as necessary. Clean and lube all actuating cables associated with the heat/AC system, these are the cables that connect to the levers on the heater control panel.

Hi Eprist, I noticed that the BD bolts are missing the "dimple" too. Cad plating would indeed be perfect for replacing these bolts for a restoration. Do you have any plans to have the clips made, too?

Hi Dave, please forgive me if it seemed like my post was directed at you, because it was not. Believe me, as an engineer and a DIY'er, I admire what you have done with your car and the products you have developed and offer to the Z car community. My thoughts are that a car, especially a Z, should be driven and should be modified in whatever fashion the owner/driver prefers. And the Z lends itself so well to that. As I've mentioned in other threads, I'm an old skool busted knuckle gear head. Up to now, my primary Z has been my orange '73 which sports an L28/5-speed/3.90 R180 which I swapped in to the car to satisfy the urge for a little more peppiness. I hope to finish my V8 Z project this Spring, which will satisfy my personal urge to mate Chevy V8 power with Datsun sport car looks. By no means anything novel, new or revolutionary, but for me, the sound of a Chevy V8 with glasspacks emanating from a Japanese sports car is just too freakin' cool! It has nothing to do with speed, horsepower or torque...for me it is simply the sound! And with the V8 car I do plan to add a few ameneties, like AC, MP3 sound, Recaro seats and maybe electric windows. I also admit I am a fan of quality of workmanship in any form more than anything else. A "restored' car that has been done in a shoddy fashion turns me off, whereas quality custom work, even in a car may still need a little work, gets my respect and often motivates me in the work I do on my cars (Z and non-Z alike). Christine, keep us posted on your quest for a Z. Once you find it, keep us up to date on your progress towards making it the car of your dreams, or nightmares if it turns out to be more like the Steven King version!

Creature comforts are fine, but I admit I prefer the raw enjoyment of a sports car like my Z that puts me more in touch with the road without the amenities. Power windows, power locks, heated power seats, electric mirrors, mp3 digital audio, fuel injection, gps navigation systems, heads up displays, Onstar, etc... are all fine and most can be added to a Z if you really want. But none of these features would add to the pleasure I get from taking my Z for a spirited drive on the twisty roads...

No sound bite, but I do have the MSA 3-2-1 header with the MSA turbo exhaust. L28 with SU's. Great sound, not too loud.

I've removed & cleaned a couple of 240Z fuel tanks by myself. Nothing wrong with an extra set of hands, except the beer disappears twice as fast. Be sure to drain the tank first, if there is any gas left in it. I have a pressure washer and I stuck the wand inside and sprayed out the tank real good. Then put a little muriatic acid in and sloshed it around (carefully...wear gloves and goggles!). Rinsed with a bit of baking soda to neutralize the acid and the inside was then nice and clean. Amazing, the amount of crud that washes out, even from a tank that doesn't look that bad. You can have it boiled out, do the liner bit (POR or one of the others available), but I opted not to do that. With no leaks and no rust I figure the tank will be good for another 30+ years!

I love the pro-street look of your Z! I put a LT-1/T-56 in a '73, still a work in progress, though!

Hi Eprist, here are a few photos of the brake/clutch line bolts that I purchased from Black Dragon. Part Number 79-618. I paid 95 cents apeice when I purchased them in July of last year.

The '82 ZX 5-speed and 3.90 R180 I have in my '73 make for fun driving on the twisty roads in the nearby foothills & mountains. And it is also fun to drive in town or on the highway. In 5th gear at 4000 rpm the speedo shows 100 mph.

Hi Art, before cutting off the terminals, you might try cleaning them up with Deoxit and a brush. Check Radio Shack for the Deoxit, if they don't have it they should have a similar contact cleaner. An old toothbrush would work to scrub the terminal, but a brush with wire bristles would be better, check your local hardware store or Harbor Freight (if there is one near you). A little cleaning will go a long way.

Because I'm a gearhead and I can't leave well enough alone. It all started when I was a teenager and swapped the Rochester 2 bbl carb on a small block Chevy with a Carter AFB 4bbl. I've never been the same since... I bought my first 240Z about 8 years ago. A non-numbers matching 73 with an automatic tranny. Initially I kept it mostly stock with an L24 under the hood, but longed for a bit more performance and a manual transmission. For 300 bux, I got a '82 280ZX from a salvage yard. The L28 and the 5-speed went into the '73. The R200 diffy went into my V8 Z project, which is also a '73 (see, I can't leave well enough alone!). In my defence, I still have both L24's. And I'm almost finished refreshing a '71 with the numbers matching L24 that I have kept intact.

I've used Eastwood's (www.eastwood.com) Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Black to paint the suspension parts on several projects. Very durable stuff and easy to apply. I think they sell by the quart & gallon and also have aerosol cans if you don't have spray paint equipment. I have a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun that I use for spraying the suspension parts. I sandblasted all the parts before I sprayed them. I have a Trinco 36 blast cabinet in my shop, TP Tools (www.tptools.com) has some good blast cabinets available, too.

It could also be the fuel pump relay for the electric fuel pump mounted by the fuel tank, if your '73 has one.

Hi Art, as I mentioned, the part in the photo from post #11 is the accessory relay. The voltage regulator is located in the engine bay and is mounted on the right inner fender.

Hi Art, the part pictured in the bottom photo on post #11 is the accessory relay. It provides power to the rear hatch defroster, maybe something else. Refer to a wiring diagram and it should show any other circuits controlled by the relay.