surfsnake2

sure

Radio sold, still have the bumpers $200 front bumper $150 rear bumper or 300$ for both

Removing a front and rear bumper from a 260z, and the radio(I dont think the radio works, but I had a different radio in the car for the last 15~ years... so assume it doesnt work) The rubber on the bumpers is not in great condition, I would suggest replacing the rubber and mounts, shocks are in good condition, If I remember correctly one or two of the shock mounts has a broken bolt, where it mounts into the hatch. Radio is missing antenna switch. Not exactly sure on prices, I think I have seen bumpers go for 200 or more each, and no idea on the radio. Let me know what youre willing to pay we can try and make a deal. I am sure there is small pitting and maybe a dent on the front bumper, if you want more pictures let me know. I plan to remove the bumpers and radio this weekend.

Hello, please see link for my Datsun 260z on ebay 500$ NR This was posted a few months ago, but after a failed sale I put the bumpers back on, and fixed the wiring and have reposted it to ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-260Z-/282143973390?forcerrptr=true&hash=item41b117600e:g:zocAAOSwdzVXuNHt&item=282143973390 Here is a video of the car, updated

do you have the hatch carpet, and side mirror?

I am looking to find a good condition hatch carpet in oregon for my 260z, i think it is the same as the 240z. I know they have them online, i would just like to avoid shipping costs

I did google it, just found a/c relay and i dont have a/c wasnt sure if the clicking was an issue or normal. Reason for the missing fuses is moving them around because of the 20a fuse popping.

haha, yeah i checked to make sure they were, that was my first thought. I did notice though, that as soon as i plug in C3, there is a click, or like a ding sound, and it is coming from this(picture below)... What is it??

I appreciate the confidence that I havent messed anything up, but before I started all of this the fuse would only blow when the parking lights are on, now as soon as i put a fuse in their is a small spark and the fuse immediately pops. How have i not messed something up if this wasnt happening before? Ive only had everything taken apart for about 24 hours or so It doesnt seem like enough time for corrosion

I dont really know where to go from here, and as I thought I seem to have made things worse, I started to put everything back together and now the fuse blows as soon as I connect C3, im guessing I messed up a ground somewhere.... And I have run a marathon a few times, this is much harder .....Is there suppose to be a ground from the radio to the frame right next to it? I remember removing a ground wire from there that was from the old/replacement radio but i dont know what it was suppose to hook up to????

I really appreciate all yalls help, but I really think this is just out of my league and have already spent a great deal of time, I think its best at this point to get a professional involved so i dont end up doing more damage. Again thanks for yalls help, I think i at least made some progress with the C3 connection point

The fuse only blows when the G/W wire from C3 is connected, if it is not connected everything is fine.... I jumped every wire across C3 and the GW wire is the only one that causes the issue, as soon as i Jump/Plug it in the fuse gets hot and prepares to blow. Im not loosing any fuses over this as it is easy to see the volt/amp meter jump, I just dont know what to keep disconnecting as the post said C3 covers the radio, A/T indicator, tail lights, hazard switch and heater vent light

I did read the post and I dont really understand checking branches. One of my posts/quotes was from a reply from Steve from another thread, which stated that if it was C3, then it was: 4. If so, disconnect connector C3. 5. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light. (Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later.) So doesnt this indicate the problem is one of these areas Heater CP Light(DISCONNECTED), Hazard Switch Lights(DISCONNECTED), A/T Indicator light(I dont know what this is, but I have a manual so I guess I dont have one), radio(No Fuse and DISCONNECTED) or the taillights????? If so arent I narrowed down to just tail lights?? But i dont understand because my tail lights are on, if C3 is unplugged shouldnt they not be receiving power? Or is this the parallel power source thing and it gets powered from multiple areas?

Okay. I will check that, I really appreciate all the help, but I am starting to think I am in over my head, although at least i think i have somewhat of narrowed it down, but maybe not...(hence my lack of understanding) Does this shed any more light: With C3 unplugged I jumped each wire, it is the GW top right wire that is causing the problem. If i understand the diagram at all, the current is running up^ powering the speedometer, tachometer and other gauges, then going into the C3 connection block(which would explain why all the gauges have power up to this point. If this is correct where does C3 GW go after that.... If i am reading this right it goes to: The A/T Indicator ???? I dont know what this is?? Then to the Radio - Which is unplugged and the fuse is pulled(Could there still be a problem? Then to the hazard switch( I unplugged this and reconnected C3) still same problem

So... Weird, I left C3 unhooked for a bit with the dash light on, and everything was fine. Plugged C3 Back in, And Everything was still Fine....... I thought Christmas Miracle? No, wrong month.... Because about 20 seconds later, without having done anything the dash lights dropped, the voltmeter pegged. Any ideas of why it would be fine after plugging c3 back in and then all the sudden a drop 20-30 seconds later? Also is there a way to isolate c3 down to the wire? I am trying to follow the FSM, and I guess I am not doing very well, because It seems like the dash lights would go out when I unplug C3, but they stay on and are working well, and the tail lights are on also. The radio is unplugged(and i even removed the fuse) and so is the heater/vent light... The hazards work, except they dont light up on the tachometer so i am having trouble understand what C3 controls?

Good news, i at least have narrowed it down From another post: 4. If so, disconnect connector C3. 5. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light. (Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later.) I tried this and the voltmeter didnt peg and the dash lights were at 100% so i will start seeing what happens now

unhooked the engine light, still same issue. I did notice that as i turn the dimmer switch up to 100%(slowly) @ approximately 80% the ampmeter gauge jumps significantly and all of the parking lights dim to about 10%. (I dont know if this helps or just adds more confusion)

If i lower the power it will still eventually blow, just takes longer. Yes if i turn it off or unplug it it will not blow, However everything past it shuts off so I guess i was thinking that it could still be in the dash lights. I will pull out the dimmer, if i remember correctly it just plugs into a connector up above. You say there is a wire from the dimmer to somewhere above/around the cig lighter or does it run from the wires that plug into the connector for the dimmer?

1974 260z. I have unplugged the dimmer and the fuse does not blow, I can also turn it all the way down to off, and it does not blow, but i have unplugged everything except for the speed/tac and it will still blow. Which makes me believe it is either something with the switch or the speed/tach. I would really like to eliminate the combo switch before I take the whole dash out if that is possible

Maybe I just dont know what I am talking about here, as electrical is not really my thing. But I am pretty sure it has nothing to do with the parking lights because if I unplug the dash lights there is no issue and the parking lights dont pop the fuse.

Whenever i turn my dash and parking lights on, if I leave it for about 15 seconds, the fuse will blow. What I have done so far that has not worked: Disconnected all of the lights on the exterior of the car one at a time. Swapped out the dimmer switch. Unplugged the cigarette lighter/under dash light. Unplugged the glove box light. Unplugged the clock, fuel and oil gauge lights. Took apart the combo switch, cleaned/sanded the contact points. -------- I have not been able to unplug the speedometer light or the tach light. I found out that if i unplug the dimmer switch, or turn the dimmer switch all the way down to off, the fuse does not blow. When the dash lights are on the green and white wire gets(at the switch) Extremely hot within seconds and appears to have done some damage to the plug. (Can this be replaced?) It also seems that the green wire with a blue strip right next to it begins to get hot quickly, could they perhaps be arcing because of damage to the connector/plug and causing this problem? I put some electrical tape around the Green/White wire because it looked like over heating may have created a small hole near the plug... this obviously did not fix the problem Is there a way that I can eliminate the combo switch or confirm that it is the problem by jumping without the combo switch hooked up? (I think there is a chance it is the combo switch as it was replaced after and electrical issue at the headlights)

Removed at this time

the reserve isnt 500, the BIN is., and yes im in corvallis http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280262252676&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123

if i wanted you to bid i probably would have included the link right? i posted that because this was in my email Dear surfsnake2, Sailor Bob has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 1970's original Key Blank(oval top) - in the Open Zcar Discussion forum of Classic Zcar Club. This thread is located at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31717&goto=newpost Here is the message that has just been posted: *************** I'll give you $20 ea for them. ***************

i put them on ebay