surfsnake2

its not about what you pay, its about what its worth, its not about where you got it, its wheter or not you have it, not that any of this matters, the only point of this was that i was letting people know i have extras blanks

My first thread the first several places i went looking had the big squarish kind of key, and i did not want that, so then i began the hunt for an actual original, found the threads that had pictures of the original here, set out to find the originals, did so, thought they might be to expensive, received an idea of what they might be worth, calculated it all out, decided to go back and buy what he had. the second picture, the one in this thread, i had not yet purchased they key, that is a picture of a key from here, that matches the cut side. i didnt ask if i could photograph the keys before i bought them. and the dealer was someone who i know who works at a nissan dealership and had purchased them a long time ago and he was willing to sell me what he had personally, not through the actual dealership but through himself. well i actually didnt know him i knew him through somebody in a zclub

yep, just me, my girlfriend and the guy i purchased them from Actually i posted here because i went looking for them, found some but the price i thought was unreasonable, so i asked here decided it would probably be worth it so i take a couple of extras with me(what he had left). I only discuss money and politics with family.

they were more than that maybe they came from a different kind of dealer

i bought them from a dealer who found them in the back but they were kind of expensive so i wasnt sure if it was worth getting them at the time or not

well i do have a couple of these sitting around just an fyi

lets pretend like i found this and this exact key was sitting on my desk in front of me. What is it worth?

Does anyone know where I can find an original key blank for 260z 1974 I am looking for one that looks like this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16187&d=1169705379 And can anyone tell me why the key blanks said Nissan on them? I dont know that bit of history. If these cant be found does anyone know if key blanks can be custom made? Thanks

Can you tell me what each of these are, as in there purpose and what fluid they use and if they are low, can they just be filled, or is there a process needed to go through. Thanks 1974 datsun 260z pic.bmp

1974 260z I have a clutch that is about 4 years old or so. 110k original miles on the engine For some time I have noticed some problems with the shifting however today was the worst, some times when i would take long drives, 3-4 hours on the interstate shifting would seem difficult once getting off the highway. Usually when I am at a dead stop and shift into reverse, it will range from smooth shift, to some grinding, to having to shut the car off to get it into reverse. In the last week or so I have noticed when i start the car in first or reverse with the clutch pedal all the way down, it will creep forward or back on level ground. Today when i went for a short drive I was unable to get it into 1st gear and had alot of difficult in 2nd-4th, each one being a little bit easier. After about 10 minutes of driving I was able to get it into first gear but it was still very difficult, but there was never any grinding on any gears except reverse, it was just very difficult to shift, when the car is off though it shifts with no difficulty into all gears. Some things i have noticed are that sometimes if i pump the clutch for a minute or two it will be easier to shift if i am having troubles, or usually after a few minutes of driving the shifting becomes easier. When I parked the car this morning and just checked it a couple hours later, there were no shift problems except for minimal difficult getting it into reverse. Ideas?

I just recently bought a 240z wood steering wheel and need a horn pad for it to put in my 260z, and I cant figure out which ones fits the wood steering wheel, if anyone could help me out to find out which one I need and where to get it that would be great. Thanks Dustin

mostly for anti-theft

I have read a few threads about setting this up, but if someone who has done this could help me out with what I specificly need to do and look for, i.e. where to cut and wire, that would be great. Thanks 74 260z

I have seen a couple threads about this, but no real definitve answer, so... I have a 74 260z and was looking into the idea of getting t-tops added, but i have no idea who I would talk to to get something like this done. And does anyone know if you can just use t-tops glass, from the ZX. Or if it is a completely different size/design.

Yes actually, cleaned them just recently, and put new hookups on it for both the positive and negative.

1974 260Z Electrial Issues Hi, about 2 years ago i bought a new alternator with life time guarantee, i also have a 150 watt amp in my car that powers my subwoofer. So what ended up happening is one day the car would start, it was totally drained, and you could hear the starter just barely trying on the first 1 or 2 turns of the key, then nothing, except you could hear the fuel pump running. So we jumped the car, and it worked, and every few times the car wouldnt start, so i replaced the alternator, and it worked fine for about 1 year. a few days ago i had the same problem, and like before, the amp needle is constantly moving, wether i turn on the lights, or have the radio kup all the way or have the volume at 1, which i have never seen it do except for these 2 times, i also replaced the voltage regulator and 2 places tested the battery and said it was perfectly fine. And the reason i replaced the alt, and VR, was because i was having the starting problems again, which now are mostly fixed, although the start feels a bit weaker than usual. And everytime i start the car the amp needle is on the far right about 3/4 of the way, but very quickly goes back to the middle, not like before which was a slow or gradual decline down to the middle. So im out of ideas, New VR, Alt. and battery is in good condition, im not sure what i should do anymore =/? So any help/advice would be great. Although i love to work on my car, im not real good at knowing the names of the car parts, so please use detail or a picture if you know what might be specifically wrong. P.S.: Dont think this has anything to do with it, but my clock does not work, my temp gauge works about 80% of the time, so could it possibly be a bad meter? although I dont see how that would keep it from starting.

What do they look like, where are they and how do i get rid of em?

On my 260z when i go out for school in the morning(choke is electric not manual) the car doesnt reallly want to start it keeps droping down to 0rpm's and sometimes you have to hold the gas down to keep rpm's up for a bit till it catches and then the car will not drive well at all(it jerks and tries to die) until it gets to 150 Degrees or right in the middle of the temp gague... how can i fix this?

ever since i replaced my water pump and fan belt a month ago my car whines and i was talkin to a friend and he said might be the fan/fan belt since the belt was just replaced along with the alternator yesterday he said maybe the belt was to tight? any way i can fix this. its kinda embarassing to have such a great sound coming off the car and then it whining more and more as i rev higher

so what if i dropped a 300zx turbo engine into my 260z what kinda hp would i get and what kind of times would i be lookin at

i got a friend to use a blow torch and in 20 seconds the nut came off thanks for yalls help

Is there no way to remove one of these parts? the one on the right of the attached picture is threaded and looks in good condition i.e. its not rusted so it looks like it could be removed if not i need to find some way to get this thing to school tomorrow

ok, well i cant get the nut off unless i torch it, the only way to torch it is to take it to school, so i have to remove something to get it to school tomorrow morning btw the alignment is off, and steering wheel is off, and the nut is rusted so tight that it cant be aligned

so i can get ahold of a good torch at school but that means i have to remove a bit more so whats the easy way to remove this thing or what do i have to do to take this thing to school or do i have to remove both outer tie rods and the whole long thing?

but it feels like its gonna break the inner tie rod or something like inside should i be worrying about this