GregP

Thanks for the info CG! I have an automatic. I also found nothing regarding the inhibitor switch in the FSM but read about it online. My first thought was I needed a new inhibitor switch. I purchased one with no difference. I then thought the relay switch under the passenger side dash may be the issue since it is making clicking noises when putting the key in the start position. I have cleaned and visually checked all the connections. Ignition connector looks great. Now I'm wondering about the actual ignition switch. I just checked with the ignition switch in the on position, the relay under dash gets power. When you turn the key to start position, power is lost at relay & the relay clicks. I assume the ignition in start position is now cutting the power to relay and which prevents it going to inhibitor switch. I am thinking of replacing ignition switch since it's not expensive. A side note the wipers are now coming on intermittently when I have the key in the on position even though I have them off at stalk and now they won't work from stalk with the key in the on position. By the way the coil is getting power. Thoughts?

Thanks for the replies! I tested the wire to the small spade connection on the solenoid, and it is NOT getting power. Picked up a remote starter switch and when hooked up to small spade connection on the solenoid the starter turns over nicely. The black switch I mentioned, that is under the passenger side dash is no longer clicking but still doesn't work. Is there something else I am missing? After spending a lot of time trying to trace wires and unable to accomplish anything (with my limited electrical knowledge) I'm thinking of giving up and installing a starter relay as mentioned by cgsheen1. I couldn't find anything on the forum; can anyone provide a procedure for this?

Hi, I need some help with a starting issue on my 1973 Z, auto trans, mostly original car. Car has been operating great then one day nothing. Car won't crank, just a clicking noise under dash on passenger side. I have a new battery; I checked & cleaned all connections from starter to ignition. I tried starting it in neutral thinking it might be the neutral safety switch but same thing. I tried turning the key to the start position and wiggled it up and down to see if the lock was the issue but nothing. I read on the forum that the automatics have a starter inhibitor circuit (K-18) mounted on the firewall. The person replaced it and it cured the similar problem I had. The K-18 was replaced by Nissan with a new part number (25230-89918). When I went to look for it, I found that it had been replaced again with a new part number (B5230-89985). I found one and it didn’t help, same issue. Can I test the starter by running a cable from pos battery post direct to the starter? If so, what is the best way? Any other suggestions? The 3 attached photos are: The switches on upper kick panel of passenger side. The lower blackbone is the one that is clicking. Not sure of the name or if that needs to be replaced, 2. the Interrupter circuit on firewall, The clicking switch enlarged in case someone can identify it?

Thanks Steve!

I think he said he's in FL but he asked me where I was first. here is one of his posts Sanchez Juan David Admin Group expert in Car Parts · +6 Sanchez Juan David Admin Group expert in Car Parts +1 · · 1971-1978 240z dashboard available for sale Asking $550 shipped

I had the same thoughts. When I inquired about something he was really pushy trying to get me to send in the money. I asked some questions and got vague generic answers.

Here is the link, https://www.facebook.com/groups/656746673230066/about

Has anyone here done business with Sanchez Juan David of Facebook group-"Datsun parts and Accessories"? I was going to buy something but wanted to verify first. Went through the site (he is an administrator) and lots of stuff for sale but no verification of any sales or feedback.

Thanks Steve! That was a big help. Got everything working and just have to tackle reconnecting the heater control cables. Such a simple job but need two hands and hardly any room to maneuver.

When you refer to fuse for dome light is that in the fuse box or a separate inline fuse? Dome light also stopped working. I don't have the red/blue wire but as you can see there have been a few splices into the line. I'm wondering if I can just tap into the continuous power line from the hazard or something else. Also is this the right map light bezel for a 73?

I'm working on the map light in my 73 240z. The one in there was working but not now. It may be a replacement housing as the 2 wires (red & black) are spliced in. I am going to replace the bulb but the more I look at it the more questions I have. Does the map light have continuous power going to it through the red wire? Does it have its own line fuse? Mine does not have any power in the line even if I have the key on or lights on. Is the housing supposed to be black? Mine is white. Thanks!

FOLLOW UP ON SERVICE: Here is a follow up on using Jay Zinc to rebuild my 2 turn signal switches and the hazard switch for my 73 240z. I am thrilled with not only his service, but also the response, keeping me consistently updated and his price. I send him two turn signal switches. One was in ok shape but wasn't working and the other looked like a disaster with broken handle, cut & missing wires, missing connectors etc. His prices vary depending on the work he is doing, and repairs/parts needed. On the terrible TS I opted for a full show restoration ($380) and for the one that just wasn't working, a general rehab and refurbishment ($150). I had him do the same on the hazard switch ($150). They look like brand new. He sent photos as his work progressed and highlighted defects before and after. Took him roughly a week to do all three items. he even sent me a choice of carriers and prices for shipping them back. Highly recommend him (thanks Jim Arnett for recommending him). I asked Jay for a list of services and here is his response. Contact him on Facebook under his name: Jay Zinc I'm limited to the 1970-78 Datsun Z/Nissan Fairlady Z for all dash switches. I can also restore/service center console switches (rear defrost, parking lamp, choke, etc) really any switches. As for pricing, it varies slightly depending on year/condition of the switch. I typically say "contact me for a quote".

Thanks for the replays! I guess I will keep it unattached!

1973

Can anyone identify what this is and the purpose? 1973 240z-See photos. It's attached to the console under the dash near gas pedal. It has three prongs out the back. There is a three prong plug that may go to it, as it's just sitting there unattached for at least ten yrs. Wires are 2 black and one green. There was a dealer installed Ac that was removed and an aftermarket radio that PO had installed and butchered the wires. I have been slowly fixing them.