GregP

Sorry to hijack the thread here, but could you guys elaborate on the Just Dash's quality? I was about to go that route because the 2 previous dash's that I had done for my GTO's were terrific. One was done 10 yrs ago and the other 2 yrs ago. Both still outstanding. Have they changed how they do the work or is it the shape of the Z dash that gives them trouble? Anyone else have a Z dash done there?

Nice job! How much of difference did the sound deadening make? I have been thinking of doing it but I want more than just a slight improvement. Greg

I have a 240z with the 918 code paint and 1969 GTO Judge with Carousel Red paint, which is the same as the Chevrolet Hugger Orange. There is not that much of a difference and I get asked at shows why I painted them the same color. I see no reason to change from the original 918 unless you wanted something completely different.

Just found this thread. Did you end up with a definite number of people willing to buy?

The Wesco belts have been very good. They do ride up a bit on the neck area. i picked up an adjuster from Auto Zone. It works perfect, just clips on the belt an stays there. i can slide it a few inches either way for comfort.

Got one from Bryce . Thanks.

Thanks for all the info! Anyone have a part number so I can try to order it through Nissan?

Does anyone make the door pull plastic chrome cover piece? The part that covers the ends of the door pull strap. Mine just fell apart.

Mike, I am an insurance agency owner and car enthusiest. We represent a wide variety of collector car companies here in the New England area. Your really can’t go wrong with companies such as Haggerty and Grundy. Pricing is almost identical and they write Agreed Value (guaranteed value) coverage. Usually no appraisl needed. My own cars are with Hagerty because they have exceptional claims service. I hear the most compliments, by far, about Hagerty after a claim. (Grundy’s is good also). If you can find an agent or agency that knows what they are doing then I would go through them rather than buying direct (online, over the phone). Most people don’t realize the price is the same either way but you get the added avantage of their expertise in coordinationg your coverages and recommendations from an expert. You also have an advocate for claims when needed. Any agency that is really involved in this type of insurance will carry Hagerty, Grundy & others. They are not difficult for an agency to pick up. Good luck. Greg

Steve, Now I feel stupid. Found the holes now just need to get shorter bolts as the bolds in the kit are ok for the floor but double the length for that area. Thank you for the photo! Pictures sure make it easier. Looks like the same set as yours. Why did you put the reel up high rather than floor? Greg

I bought the Wesco kit with brackets. I had the retracting lap belt only in my 73. The Wesco has the shoulder mounting point up at the coat hook. At least that's the only point I can find to mount it and the screw/bolt fits it perfect and looks correct according to the diagram in their instructions. My concern is that it seems to me that this is a weak point compared to the much larger bolts used on the floor. Is this the wrong point to mount it or is there some where else that I am missing?

Thanks for the info Jim. That's what I was afraid of. I will check out the b-quiet pads. I just put in a new stereo and speakers and after driving the last few years without I realize how noisy it really is.

I want to install sound reading material to the inside of the Z BUT I plan on doing a frame off restoration on the car in the next 4 or 5 years. I have no experience with the stuff but it looks like it would be difficult to remove when the time comes. Anyone have experience with removal? Can I put it down on a temporary basis such as not using the complete whole sticky side , maybe just the corners? Or duct taping it down? Would this make it not effective for the sound proofing? Maybe I am worrying about nothing and it will just peel back up later? Thanks, Greg

Currently: 73 240z, 69 Pontiac GTO conv, 69 Pontiac GTO Judge, 77 Pontiac Trans Am, 2011 Cad CTS 2004 CAD SRX 2011 GMC Terrain

I posted a similar question back in 2009,. The answers have led me to believe my 73 with the blue air cleaner is original. Here is the post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/35107-air-cleaner-blue-orange.html Greg

Jerry, Just an FYI. I had the seat belts (5) for my 69 GTO Conv done by Ssnake Oyl about 15 years ago. Came out fantastic and still are show quality today. Pricey but top quality work that I couldn't have done myself. Nice job showing the steps you are taking. Greg

I will be following you restoratiom with interest, thanks for posting the start. Do you have any photos of the rotisserie and how you attached it? What kind are you using? I am thinking of using one when I start my resto. Greg

Couldn't find the CD with the parts numbers here. Can anyone direct me to a place to buy it?

Thanks guys. Is it just the four screws (2 per side) ? Steve, I have no plans to buy from reddat again, learned my lesson years ago.

I just purchased a repro glove box since my original was missing. It did not come with screws though there is one still in the hole of dash. That one is black. Looking around I saw this and was wondering if they should be black or silver? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-Glove-Box-Retainer-Screws-NOS-/370657406548?hash=item564ce72e54&item=370657406548&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Which is correct and do I only need four? Thanks, Greg 73 240z

I just replaced the heater core, valve, etc. in my 73Z. I am missing the clip that holds the cable to the bracket just before it meets the pivoting lever. This is on the driver side. I used a couple of plastic ties to hold in temporarily. They work but I would like to do it correctly. Does anyone make this clip or do I need to get it used? Anyone have one they want to sell?

The flared metal end kinked and broke off my automatic transmission cooling line while removing for an engine rebuild. The actual hose is ok. With so many auto to manual swaps I was hoping that someone would have one. Its the aprox 6", S shaped line coming out of radiator with the crimped metal ends Trying to stay original. Thanks, Greg

Was there a reason you had to tap the holes at all? Wouldn't the new air galley bolt right in? I just sent out my exhaust mainfold to be ceramic coated and I was figuring I may need to tap the holes once I got it back so your experience with the tap will be very helpful.

I am in the final stages of the reassembly of my rebuilt motor for my 73 z w/ automatic trans. My air galley is broken on a couple of tubes and i decided to remove it along with the inoperable smog/air pump. I purchased hex head bolt/plugs (6) from Mcmaster-Carr using info I took off another thread here for type & size. What else do I have to plug up? Would I be better off buying a new air galley ($130) and finding another smog pump? Any reason to do so? I do not need it to pass inspection. I also need a automatic transmission cooling line. It's about a foot long s shaped hose with the pressed on fittings. Anyone know where to get one? Thanks, Greg

Check with Hagerty in regards to the salvage value of the car. Most of the companies I dealt with will allow you to buy it back for that value. I am pretty sure you won't be allowed to take anything off the car. They are settling the claim on an agreed value basis which means they give you the amount on the policy (no depreciation /haggling) and they take the car. Hagerty is my favorite classic car company and have placed most of my classic car clients with them.