Victor Laury

stacked up under the house, in the living room. 4 wheels + a sheet of plywood + a table cloth = a dandy coffee table!

Got to admit, The andoauto aviator style, satin finish, is the most "Datsun Like" I've seen to date.

I'm also interested and researching. All three of my current vehicles are equipped with the series I buckle latch, as pictured in the first post. My 70 roadster, 71 521 and Z all have these buckles. From what I've learned, the finish is blast-dulled chrome. I hope to be able to disassemble the buckle for plating. I had hopes of reproducing the label. Unfortunately, All three cars use a unique label from the others, So it would be 3 one-off reproductions! Another tough item will be the plastic inserts in the adjusters. For that point, I don't even know where to start. For the strapping itself, I'm planning to send the refinished hardware and reproduced labels to a co. like ssnakeoyl for professional assembly. It sounds crazy, when you think you can buy modern belts, But, especially for the roadster, I will not tolerate any substitutions from original.

There is often used sets for sale at Club4ag.com. I gots me eye on a pretty white set right now, but can't justify buying yet ANOTHER wheel set, other than pure illness.

Wow! That IS a beauty!

The black 3M tape WILL take the paint off instead of letting the emblem loose! Yes it works, just about for-ev-ver. Now the argument against - For - Ev - Ver - meaning you will not be able to remove the emblems without, most likely, damaging the paint. Why take them off? To detail the car. If ya don't take them off first the buffer will - in peices. To detail the emblem. Before a show, I take mine off, and while I sit in front of the TV or comp, I remove the built up wax, shine the chrome and re-blacken the black bits (with a sharpie brand marker) To replace a damaged emblem.

I have heard That there is a problem fitting the Koning center caps over the front hubs on Z cars. Can anyone confirm?

Whoa! a 79 810 coupe! Wish it was still the original sora blue The green 320 is nothing compared to the one on sale down here. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/115178677.html Now That IS PRETTY! BPE anyone? http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/113589796.html This one is a great price! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/114429632.html

Man, I love living in Southern California! Last night, I stopped my my local Albertson's grocery market, and was 3/4 the way to the front door when a white, nicely customized 76 pulls in and parks next to my car. Jun (the owner of the 76) and I compared details and generally talked Z's, when up walks Mike (?), who told us of his 73 in his garage. Instant Z meet! Wish I had a camera. Some of you JDM wheel fans would have loved Jun's Deep-dished Epsilon meshes! Both Jun and Mike say they visit the ClassicZcar.com pages, so here's a shout-out Wazzup Homies!

Would this be a reproduction of the entire unit, or just the lenses? If it the whole housing, chrome strips and all, I'm in! Stock - straight repro would be my choice.

No, work sent me out of town. I'm back.

I was just saying... It IS a pipe... And It IS cracked... How o/t could I be?

Well, this is a very good thread. I've been watching it grow from the onset, and only just came to read it through. I'd like to see to it that Bill's car becomes the dependable vehical that we all tout our Datsuns to be. Let's review - Bill started this thread with what struck me as the classic "rust in the tank" senerio. Having gone through that myself, I can tell you that his symptoms mirror what I experienced to a tee. My dear friend Stephen gave him proper sugestions to eliminate other possible causes that are less extensive that pulling the tank, and Bill went through them. After sorting a few things that might have arose through the process of the diagnosis, His car now runs as it did, with the same malfunction occuring. Do I got it right so far? What I'd like to see is what is coming out of the fuel filter. Before I corrected my problem, I would remove the filter and empty it (via the inlet) onto a white paper towel. I would find much rust dust on the towel upon this. Mind you, the dust was not the source of my woes, only the indication. The reall culprit was large rust flakes inside the tank. I've no expirence with the later FI cars, but I'm willing to bet they are equiped with a large metal can fuel filter, mounted back by the pump. - True? If so, Bill, are you able to pull this and test as above? I know that "Flat on your back - arms in a tight place" is tough for me at 47 years old (it's the mileage, not the years). But I'd be interested in what comes through this test.

No more than any other moderate quality clutch. Borg Warner is pretty generic. I'd choose a Dankin over a BW. ... $150.00?

I'd say about 350 lbs. My neighbor and i was able to pick up and move my body shell around. IT WAS HEAVY! but we were able to do it. There wasn't a single screw left in it when we did, Bare, bare nakkid Fairlady

That's what the "G" in your VIN designates. GHLS30 = 2+2, L28, Left hand drive, S30 model We like to use the S30 here because this is an international discussion forum. In the states, We only got the 240Z, 260Z and 280Z. There are far more varients out there!

Yea, I guess ya could, but if your installing flares, you have the opertunity to obtain that "Deep Dish" look that we, who do want to cut our fenders, lust after. Shop around and find a wheel to take advantage of the room your making. If ya show us a flared car with 15 X 8's with a -12 offset. We will be truly greenishly envious.

Here's Mine - 15X7 @0 with 225/50/15 No rub no complaints http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/2/1303SSR_MkII.jpg

I did not know that. I guess with Stephen reffers to his 810 Coupe as "Heart of a Z", it goes deeper than just the powerplant!

it'a a beut!