Victor Laury

Your right of course. But there is something we can do to get the price down to his target - buy them! The addage, "The More, The Merrier" is the key. I'll buy a set at target price and may be negoitable if that is not obtained.

Eric. Swap sending units with me and see what changes on both cars.

Since the Silvia was hand formed by panel beaters, I'm willing to bet there was alot of filler!

Sounds proper to me! Dam close to rightgeous

Whoa! did I accidently log on to the Grandpappy Auto Club? Baby! If your SU L-24 don't pull to 6.3K at least, It's time for a tune up. Dam guys, Full throttle spin ups keep the cob webs out of sports car motors and Sport Car Owners! 6 grand is "yellow line" territory meaning you may want to not run at long periods.

Ben, on most web pages, don't try to copy the URL from the adress bar, instead, right-click in the middle of the page and copy the page URL instead. Matching Nissan The only time this method gets compicated is when the site uses frames. Watanabe is sure proud of their Fairlady Fitments!

No, that sound means your driving a sports car. There is no cure once it get's into your bloodstream. BTW - Negitive function on the Video so far. I'll admit Ryan, I can't wait to see/hear it!

Rest in peace ol' paint "sniff"

Dave, I know we went through this before but never got it done (my fault). I'd still like to buy one of your pin pullers. tell me if you have one ready and a price (pm me if you'd like) and I'll hit the Paypal button on your website.

My F10 Cherry wagon was a go-anywhere, do-anything vehicle. at the time, 1979, I was a botany student working with a proff, catologing the flora of some of the swampiest, dankest, darkest cypress jungles of So. Florida. The F10 was a jeep with 13 inch wheels. I was never stuck. The A14 never missed a beat. It was spritley and nimble around town too. I bought CHEAP, Drove it into the ground, and parked it in front of a junk yard, body rusted beyond recognition and the front axles ready to fall apart. I cried as we drove away from the olive-drab carcass. It was like shooting a loved horse.

Bill, The Cedric, when in good shape, isn't ugly. A little known fact is that a few hundred were sold in the U.S. By Nissan's east coast branch. So you folks in Maryland and such parts, keep an eye out, you may never know what's under the tarp in your neighbor's barn The Cedric brand was for the upper-middle-class sedans from the mid 60's to the mid 90's. To put it in perspective, Some of the fancier U.S. market Infinity's, were rebadged, left-handed Ced's

You wanted photos? SSR MKII 15 X 7 0 offset with 225/50/15 Falken Zeix 512's. Just back from Pepe's Tires, Where they were so nice. I cringed at the air impact wrench, so they broke out the torque wrench to put me at ease. Well worth the $20.00 tip.

I not certain, but I think the K&N's are 3'' deep and work better with the air horns, allowing you to get the full benefit of the horns. Don't quote me, There are far greater experts out there than little ol me.

Compression ratio is a static mathmatical figure based on bore, stroke and combustion chamber vollume. The actual pressure of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber varies in any given engine build, at different RPM's. As the engine RPM's reach a certain level, less A/F is drawn in due to frictional forces and the duration of the intake valve opening. With our "Pre Variable Valve Timing" engines, optimal output becomes a balancing act. We can build a "high performance engine", but We'll be only making an improvement to a certain RPM range. We build a 10.5:1 engine but we use a cam grind with an overlap. This negates some of that compression ratio in the lower RPM's, but at higher valve speeds, The longer duration intake dwell will increase combustion chamber pressure closer to optimal. Dam, I know that there's a real engine builder out there who can describe it better!

I've used TEP for machine shop services. It's comforting to have a machine shop that knows it's way around an Nissan L Motor. So far, So good. On time and done right.

My car is lowered slightly, with the MSA springs. So far, I'm leaning toward a set of Donlop 8000's in 225/50/15 Dunlop SP Sport 8000 spec page

15X7 0 offset and they are beautifull! they are currently decorating my living room. I noticed that I'm going to need a set of tapered lugs, any suggestions? I better get locks too! They are all 7 inch wide. Tire size suggestions? I think I'll get another set of the Sumotomo's the roadster is wearing, They pretty sticky. I think I want something wider than 195/50's. Don't know if I'll sell the Pacer Sports or not. There is that one fella that keeps chasing me around at the shows to sell them to him.

That's Fabulous! Congratulations, Sean! You both look great. Looking forward to Jules's first posting to the ClassicZCar forums.

Update - Tomorrow I'm off to a shop to possibly buy a set of SSR MKII's They are brand new and Bargan priced. They have silver centers. Ok, here's the scary part and my questions, They are a pair of 15X7's and a pair of 15X8's, all with a 0 offset. Will the 15X8's fit the rear of my non-flared, Non-coilover car? What size tire should I get, seeing there may be a fittment issue, 215/45's?

You're right! those Challengers ARE sweet. The got an old school JDM feel to them. Here they are on a Z car Simmons Challengers

Ben, I'm not sure. But If those crazy Konig Rewinds fit at 14 X 7 -9, Then, a 14 X 7.5 +3 should work. The hazy part to me is how critical is the backspacing. Know for a fact that 14X7 is a sure fit in the range -5 ~ +12

But you'll never remove the "L" from the VIN

From the conversations I've had, on a 16X7 wheel with unflared fenders, a +15 is best. Willing to bet a +26 WILL hit the strut towers/springs

I use white rouge on a pillow (single stitch flannel) buff to turn fogged, faded plastic to gem stones. Just don't let the work get too hot.