Victor Laury

It's 4 hours of work. IF (big IF) you can find a lift to do it on, so much the better. Doing on your back is not as plesant. Don't forget to drian the transmission before you drop it, as a slick of 3 quarts of gear oil will make the job even harder.

BTW, I noticed that your in San Diego. If you take your box to Classic Datsun Motorsports, Les will agent the work to a Nissan Transmission specialist that does work you can have complete cofidence in.

Yes, fairly sure. The countershaft bearing sits in the bottom of the case and is usally the first to go. Corrections to my original post FS5W71B (W not C, indicating "Warner" style brass sycros) Nissan offers no "Kit" and building one from Nissan stock would be $$$$.00 . However, they are availible aftermarket at a very resonable price $137.87, part # MRK100600 from Drivetrain.com

You're most likely losing a countershaft bearing. It's not uncommon after 60K miles. Steel in the oil is a good (or bad) indicator. $400.00 or so spent on a refresh (new bearings, seals and as-needed sycros is, in my opinion, money well spent on any transmission your going to use. Most "Real" transmission shops will have no problem navigating a FS5C71B, as there's nothing "new" or "High tech" about them. But, I suggest that, You buy the Nissan kit, and supply it to the mechanic, ensuring that he'll use the right parts.

A PHH Mikuni, DCOE Weber, Delo's, and others are just a pair of single throat carbs that share a float bowl.

Watch out Michael, You'll catch a "Sunny" disposition. Trading your Z for a full JDM GX setup and begging our Aussies for a set of skinny bumpers. That's a 78, right? Is the VIN prefix HLB310? They sold this in the states badged as a B210, but elsewhere as a B310. Kooky Nissan keeps us guessing. I know I have a sunny in my future. 1200 or 120Y coupe (B210 fastback) .

Michael, You are a frigging photoshop artist! That is so cool. The red wheels look better on the green car than I had thought. But, I agree with you, The Bronze TE37's do look agressive. although, You have to take in account, your photo retouch on the TE37's, look like the diameter is more like 18's, than the 15's I plan on. The grand saved for the real-deal Wats is another thought I had as well. But I can't find a importer/distrib in the U.S. I wrote RSWat, I wonder if they will reply? That 15'' S30 set up they have on the web site looks awsome!

Keith, I like Panas, I really do. But what do you see at a Datsun Show? 1/3 of the cars in Pana's. Know what I mean? That's why I bought the Revo's for the Roadster. Couldn't stand to be "Just another Roadster in Pana's". It's nice to know there are alternatives. And compared to the SSR's and the Volks, Pana's are boat anchors. True, The Wats would be about the same, but they're Wats, so a little leeway is warrented.

I'm hoping the mark III's do come in other colors. Here's how the pricing works out, delivered to my local rice shop. Volks $1,120 SSR's (both mks) $1,350 Wats (he's looking for a distributor) $ 2,000+?

I've decided The new wheels are needed. Just tired of the 14X5.5 old school american wheels and looking for the the following Stlye Forged Quality Light Vintage look Soi far the choices are SSR MKII SSR MKIII Dio you think the Red Centers will go with my Lime green car? Or Volk Racing TE37

Do you want to look at mine? I could stop by tomorrow.

Spelling errors or no, it's still a good poll. I do both, at work and at home. And Bill, Never, Ever, allow any criticism (even light hearted, friendly jabs) discourage you from communicating. Your participation in this forum is one of the best methods to improve communication skills. The effort to make one's views clear is something no one ever stops developing. And, the learning is in the doing. The difference in your first post to this forum, compared to your current postings are evident proof that this is true. I am a pathological miss-speller. And, at times, my sentence structure is miss-mash. But, for the past 30 years, I've had to communicate in the workplace via memoranda and presentations. The more I do, the better I get. And, it never stops being hard, and always rewarding. Thoughts are not written words. They are more like images. It has never been easy to give someone else the same metal image you want to express.

I'm afriad I had (and still have) the same reaction as Carl and others. If anyone is going to put in the effort to remanufacture ANY rare or NLA part, we should support it by purchasing his/her product and not undermining the effort to save a possible buck.

No correction needed Tanny. You got it right the first time.

Well you Can't expect me to actually do rithmatic, do you? You know I aint got 40 fingers and toes! I know some. The adds and the takes-a-ways and even some of the gizindas (4 gizinda 8, 2 times). I'd know more but, in school, Elle-May Clampet was always wisperin in my ear bout the swimin hole. Makes it hard fer a man to think bout anything except multiplication.

I misspelt. My bad. it was suppose to read "If you put a 35mm spacer on a +40 wheel, it would be effectivly a +15 wheel when you finished." Instead of "or"

For 14 and 15 by 7 inch wide wheel on a 240Z, offset of 0 to +15mm is best fitment. that means the mounting plane (that rests against the hub surface) is dead center in the middle of the wheel (for a 0 offset) or 15mm outboard (moving the wheel center inboard). The Hondas, and most FWD cars, use a 35~40 offset. If you tried to use this wheel on the Z, the back of the tire would be hard against the strut tower. To change a +35mm wheel to 0 offset, you would need a spacer 35mm thick. If you put a 35mm spacer on a +40 wheel, it would be effectivly a +15 wheel when you finished. By the way, on 16 and over wheels, a +15 offset is optimal as a 0 will rub the outer fenders on bumps. So if you bought some 17X7 +40 4X100 SSR's, the spacer offered by Modern Motorsports would be just about perfect.