Victor Laury

I think he's asking too much. There's nothing besides the body you would reinstall after painting.

Absolutley! Good advice from Craig!

I selflessly vollenteer to accept any of the orphans.

You'll get no argument from me. At 44, my bones ache. Of course my childhood hobbies of bashing myself up didn't help. You want to see something funny? Watch me try to get into a Ford Escort! I dreamt of racing a 1200. My buddy has one with a full cage. I can't bend enough to get into it!

Enrique, The reason I came up with that is it got popular with the roadsters to install a GM "One Wire" Alt. But not everyone would read the whole instruction set. So we get these roadsters in that would run on run and run on off!

Remmber Leslie, These car were built for the Japanese Market tooLOL . How many black spacers do you have under your seat mounting bolts now? From the Factory, for the U.S. Market, they had 2 between the seat rail and the mounting bracket and an extra one under the bracket. If this is what you have, loosen the seat nuts and put the third spacer with the other 2. In my case, At 6'2'', I had to take one out.

David, Never put down the detailing bucket! So you know you're not going to win, Your silver beast still need to look her best for the show! Did you get some Photos? If so, be sure to add them to the Home > 2003 Events > 03 National Zcar Convention Gallery.

Allen, If you buy and use that rear bar, be sure to scrap the provided hardware. The bolts are too short and grade 5 (!), Needs locking hardware and much larger washers to spread the load. Here's the install on my car with Grade 8 and BIG fender washers

You had to ask the most electrically challenged that question! Well, i don't know much but I do know how to work the search box. Alternator Upgrade I don't know if this has been done to your car, but I do know if you leave the diode out, The car will continue to run in the off possition. One wire to the alternator is the "signal" or "Sensor" wire that gets feedback from the load to operate the internal regulator. A diode is a one-way valve. Without the diode power backfeeds the ignition system, so it gets power despite the key switch. How'd I do, Enrique? right? wrong? way off?

Someone updated the Alternator and didn't put a diode in the signal wire?

No RB's - Last straight 6 was the L28et in the S130 No rear drive SR20's No turbo SR20's No laurels, No Cedrics (I think the Ced would have sold well) No Skylines or anything that looked like one. No GTiR's (that pocket rocket would have Killed the Honda Performace craze!) Our CA18DET is Not the same as your CA18DET No FJ's motors at all No Micras No Patrols since 1970 until their return 3 years ago as Xterra's Just Bluebird (sentra), Bluebird (Altima), Maxima, neuterd Silvia's (240sx), (Pulsar - now - 200SX That I have no idea what it sells for overseas, gutless G motor) Pathfinders, pickups and Z's. All the real, exciting, tuned cars didn't make it. Closest things were the Sentra SER (fwd SR20DE) and 1 year of a pulsar SER FWD SR20DE. For the Roadster conversions we got to import a RWD SR20DE (The DET's don't Really fit) or settle for the KA24DE

Unfortuatly, Our Silvia's got truck motors and tagged 240SX. I still like them though. I always felt that the fastbacks have almost a "Z"ness to them. No RWD SR20's to North America. Whatta Rip!

Sorry D. I had this mental image of a dash with a big triangle cut out, covered in duct tape and shivered. 2nd benifit for pull the heater panel - You get to lube the cables and slides for SMOOOTH heater control operation.

Whoa! That's a bit extreem. I mean, cut away...It's your dash! You know, IT'S NOT THAT TOO DAM HARD TO PULL THE FRIGGEN HEATER PANEL! (yes I'm yelling). And as a side benfit, it gets easier every time you do it.

Jeff, Where is the car located? Call what?

Whoa! that no small problem. That would account for MANY troubles while trying to set your carbs. This must be corrected first. What most likely happening is the needle and nozzle are out of alignment. Remove the dome and wipe the interior clean as well as the outer ring of the piston. Don't want any dirt hanging things up. remove the piston carfully and inspect the sides of the needle, near the top (thickest part) for scraping marks. Inspect the nozzle orifice for wear. The Absolute-correct way to align the nozzle and needle is with an alignment tool. But these tools are not common and you really can't do it with the carbs installed. (Well maybe but it would be a pain). On the ZTherapy tape, Scott demonstrates a short-cut alignment by slightly bending the choke actuator (flat bar that attaches to the bottom of the nozzle) I was sceptical, Then a roadster owner stopped by for a tune up. Her front carb piston was not returning with the desired "Thunk". I didn't want to dissassmble her car too much, so I tried the "Scott Brunning Choke Tweak Manuver" and it worked. With the alignment tool, you remove the piston, and nozzle. Insert the tool in place of the piston. Loosen the nozzle guide nut (The top nut on the guide tube which holds it in place on the trottle body). Reinstall the dome over the tool and tighten it down. Then you retighten the guide nut. Take off the dome, replace the nozzle, replace the piston and reinstall the dome.

I just saw your photo. 1972 3 screw carbs have the attached plastic float that is NOT prone to sinking. I'll bet you just need to clean the bowl jets. No biggie-undo the fuel line, and remove the four screws on the bowl cover. When you lift the bowl cover off, the float should be attached. remove the float hinge pin and place pin and float aside. You will see the bowl jet in the cover. Remove it and clean it. What you may find is a piece of teflon thread sealing tape caught in the jet.

I'll help keep this on top. I wonder myself. Can you have the reliable power of the Electronic F.I. without that spegetti mess of tubes, wires and diaphrams? Do you benfit from EGR? What needs to stay and what can get lost?

Quick test. Swap bowl covers. AND Open the bowls and see which style floats you have. If tyou have the loose, brass float, you may have a sunk one, where gas has seeped into the float enough to overflow the bowl. This isn't a biggie, don't tear the carbs apart....yet. Fix this issue and then see if everything is OK? hope this makes sense. been hittin the tequila tonight.

Craig That looks great. Was it tough staying ahead of the overweight chevy grand tourer?

Alan Bent's Early Datsun page is pretty good primer. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/3823/index.html

You know how we complain about the many errored histories penned about our cars. Makes us wonder how much "Research" the author really did, besides reading the incorrect history published before. The Roadster community has had the same gripe for many years, until 2 years ago. That's when a respected roadster fanatic Phil Brook of Australia published "FairLady", "Japan's First Sports Car". This has been the ONE document the whole community has been able to endorse completely. http://www.users.bigpond.com/fairlady/ http://www.datsun.org/fairlady/order.htm I gots me a signed copy!

All are vendors are local to you. You are only as far away as the UPS truck can get to your house! How close is that?

Jason, Everything our brothers have told you is true. Common sense, all of it. We like to feel we can still speak the truth even if we don't follow it. I say, "F" the truth! If you got Z lust, Welcome to the club. Buy your Z car, then restore-while-you-drive and love it! Haleluya! Baby! that's what this group is all about! But, don't be hasty! You are right on when you say you want to learn before you buy. Be carefull you do'nt spend 500 ~ 2,000 bucks on a car that will never get to the appearence/performance you want. There are deals out there. take you time and find them.

Hayden, Now you change your Icon to your new Wasabi! Not that we don't like your bike and baby, but, it's been up there for years now! I'll bet the little girl is first year at the universery at this point.