Victor Laury

As Mike described, I bought the quartz converted clock, sold by MSA, built by this ZClock4U fellow. It appears to be a quality product. The AA battery will last over a year. it has a long lead attached to the battery holder, so you can position the battery down by the fuse panel for easy access. I sure like knowing what time it is! But, even more obsessive, I can't stand for inoperative functions in my Z! Everything Must Work!

I predict a run on the maket for 88 civic blower motors. I know I'll be getting 1 within the week! I'm not A/C'd but I use the blower to keep me "somewhat" cooled. Thanks Mushpork5 for paving the way.

Wasn't the 240 and the NA 911 both in C prod during the years where the 240 took the Championship? I believe so.. I'd say that consecutive championships are the "proof in the pudding", as it were. BUT - there's more than one Porsche. I don't think the Z car and the 930 TT Carrera is any match.

I bought the "aftermarket", "modern" auto antenna from MSA. It was a clean installation. I ran an un-switched 12 volt wire and the antenna motor signal wire together along the path of the rear harness. Six months of good duty so far.

Plastic - Not Glass Glass media is too aggressive. Plastic media blasting is the way to go. You don't get the warping. This will only attack the paint, bondo and leaded areas. It won't touch the rust. That part is for you. :mad: $400 to $600 for plastic blasting a complete stripped down Z is a good deal considering all the time and the mess created if youj do it.

I brought my valve cover up to bright with just wheel polishing. If you must have perfect polish, you need to get rid of all surface defects with sanding through the grades. The problem is, the valve covers are pretty porous castings. So, as you're sanding to get rid of the holes, you open new ones up! I've gotten pretty good at poishing, these last few years and have collected quite a few tools to do it right. I have 2 large motors that run the different compounds on 10'' wheels, and a big slow motor for a sanding arbor. For finished aluminum, I start with Emory compound to take out most of the small imperfections. then I solvent wash between each of the next copmpounds - Stainless - Tripoli - White rouge. You got to keep your wheels clean as the clog up with aluminum and start to fog the work. On raw castings, there's no choice but grinding and sanding before the wheels see it. I'm scared to do my Carb domes because I'm worried about distorting them with the heat and pressure of polishing. It would be a bummer to have pretty domes with stuck pistons. True?

Right Carl, He's reffering to the distributor cam, the little cam with the lobes that open the points. On Datsun dizzies, the centrifugal advance is mounted on this. Distributor Advance = Centrifugal Advance CA). This figure is multiplied by 2 for crank advance. 8.5 X 2 = 17 degrees. Now our cars, as well as most others, on pump gas, run with a Total Advance (TA) between 28 ~ 35. Compression, cam lift and duration, mixture and altitude will effect the setting of TA. But, I would not exceed 35 on a stock engine. If you have a WILD, full on racing cam, you may not be able to start a car with less than 35 degrees TA. But a stocker, on pump premium might knock itself to death. So let's use a benchmark starting point of a 32 degree TA. and fine tune it later. 32 TA - 17 CA = 15 degrees initial timing (at idle). INITIAL TIMING - Is the point where the distributor is set in the engine prior to start-up. This timing can be advanced or retarded by moving the distributor. CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE - Is a function of the engine RPM and will increase as the engine's RPM increases. The centrifugal advance is controlled by the weights and springs insides the distributor. TOTAL ADVANCE - Is the total of initial advance, centrifugal advance added together.

They showed up on the US market roadster, mid model year 69 though the 70 model year to end of production. I believe that would be the start of the calender year 1969.

Mine is driven to work daily. But, I live 4 miles from work - and- I've been throgh just about every main system on the car (see my journal) so I have quite a bit of confidence in the car at this point. ( I hope that statment doesn't curse me to break down today)

I just bought a beautifull set of 40 Mikuni PHH's, manifold and K&N "box" stlye filters. The manifold has "Mikuni" cast into the mounting flange. On the other hand I've got a perfect set of SU's, restored by Z therapy, polished manifold, all replated hardware and a restored air filter with the K&N element. Which one to install? Eeney, meneey. mineey mo, tell me which one that should go,.....

Drive faster, harder. You'll feel much better when you get her down to 12 MPG

I got one, or let's say, I got one "in process". My original was taken from a Junk Yard 73 for $2.00. No need to say, I'm paying quite a bit more this time around! And, I'm in no way complaining. Un-obtainium is expensive and Junk-Yard-Luck is few and far between. With all the money I spend on Z, Roadster, and other Datsun parts, I could be healthy thin and handsome. Plastic Surgury and personal trainers come costly, but think, I could be the California Ideal..... NAH! what I really need is triple 44 Mikunis and a new chrome rear bumper, oh yea and a set of 16'' panasports, no wait, Wats! yea! A little more costly N.O.S. dodads is where my happiness lies.

Excellent!! You have a PM

I'm looking for un-obtainium, and willing to pay the market rate. Wanted the milky-white plastic cover that fitted over the voltage regulator. I had one, and it was my pride and joy, as I had only seen 2 or 3 cars with one. I brought my car to an Auto Electric shop for a diagnosis, and I guess the technition thought it would just pop off. I watched in horror as he grabbed my rare cover and tore it off. You can see one in this photo

Sir Jack, Your car is alright, but your web page is outstanding! Did you develop it yourself?

Who are you people?!?! I thought I knew you folks, but now.... I'm not so sure. I'd buy a new Maxima over ANY sedan on the market. BMW?! BMW!!!!?? can anyone say ....... G35 coupe? SUV? have you stood next to a FX45 yet. WOW Hello? inexpensive sports car would still go to mazda. If I wanted the modern day 510.. would that be the WRX or the Mazda 6? If only we got a 2 door Lancer.... If I wanted I medium high end Sports car I'd be hard pressed between the Z or the ZO6.

You want Zzzap photos? I got you your Zzzap photos. Zzzap 1 Zzzap 2 Zzap 3 Zzzap 4 Zzzap 5 Ok, so it the same car. I'm embarrased to admit I don't know the owners name. I speak to him at every show and had the honer of chasing him up Palomar Mt. Rd. And, as a true Datsun enthusiast should, he drives this perfect show car hard like the sports car it was built to be. He is a member of the San Diego Z Club.

How about email@REMOVETHISwhereever.com? Does that work or are the bots too smart to fall for that. BTW I'd love a copy of the *.DWG. I use ACAD2000, and dream of being able to 3D model, but I'm still just a hack struggling in a 2D world. But imagine, a virtual Z car....

I had this trouble before with my 4 speed. My answer? I removed the reverse light switch and filled it from there.

This last Saturday, I replaced my clutch and I installed a 5 speed. I'll share with you all the problems I encountered for your future avoidance. A couple of months ago, I began to suspect that my clutch was slipping. I could not spin the tires. I tried adjusting the clutch a couple of times, with no improvement. Since I had no knowledge of what quality of clutch was installed by the previous owner, I assumed the PO would select the cheapest thing available. I began to prepare for my clutch job by gathering the parts. I took a spare flywheel to Top End Performance in the San Fernando Valley and they machined away several pounds off the stock unit. I ended up purchasing a "Street Performance" clutch set from them as well. Going through the online classifieds, I found, "1980 ZX 5 Speed Transmission - Rebuilt - $200". Since I was going to pull the tranny to replace the clutch, I thought "Why the hell not?". I'm fortunate in having a neighbor who owns an auto shop. He agreed to let me use his lift for this job, whenever his customer traffic was down. He called me Saturday morning to tell me "Today is the Day" Cool! I load up my parts and tools and get to his shop in record time. While I'm waiting for the lift, I remove the console, upper and lower shift boot. Roll up on the lift and pull the shifter. Raise the car and get ready to remove the driveshaft. I could not even see the drive shaft bolts. The 2-1/2'' exhaust and the rear sway bar I installed has covered the area completely. To get to them, I remove the front diff-mount cross member. BUT, I couldn't get the member out until I loosened the exhaust pipe and muffler to pull it out of the way. Observation - Good time to replace a faulty diff mount - Mine was ok. Wow! My driveshaft bolts were WAY loose! I think I found my "Mystery Noise". I pull the drive shaft and am reminded that it's good practice to drain the tranny before doing this! Ok Tranny drained, I start loosening the tranny. Disconnect the battery before starting this job. Stupid me takes off the starter and I'm rewarded with a shower of sparks. Using a lift jack stand, I support the back of the engine and remove the tranny cross member. The tranny can off without too much trouble. It looked like the header would be in the way, but there was enough room to pull the tranny back and then move it over to clear. I removed the old clutch and flywheel, it didn't look all that bad but it did look like generic pepboys garbage. Install my new stuff and oops - forgot the clutch alignment tool. Believe it or not, a broom handle came to the rescue. The end that screws into the broom is just the size of the pilot bush and the handle diameter is close enough to the clutch disk splines to work. And it did! The 5 speed did not have a place for the "In gear" switch that the seat belt warning used. I kinda liked that warning, It got me to use my seat belt more than I have in years. The 5 speed mounted right up - no problem. I hooked everything back up, crossmembers and drive shaft. I fill the tranny with Redline MTL and then go to install the clutch slave cylinder. "What the FU*K?!" the clutch release fork is completely different! I never noticed this before! It doesn't have a hole for the adjustment rod to pass through. I make an "Emergency Consultation" call to Les at CDM and hell calmly tells me to switch the fork with the one out of my 4 speed. Well I'm wearing out my welcome at the shop, I just poured $28.00 of synthetic gear oil in there and have buttoned it all up - There's no way I going to pull it off again today! Les tells me that maybe I could drill a hole through fork. Easier said than done. There's no drill bit in the shop healthy enough the make a dent in that hardened steel. So I come up with one of my "Quick Fixes" that I have no doubt I'll have to REALLY fix in the future. I cut the adjustment rod. Well it works for now, I don't know how much adjustment I'll have in the future. Well, So far I like the 5 speed, first gear is a little steep, but the shifts from 1~2, 2~3 and 3~4 are closer, quick and smooth. Overdrive 5 gear is only usable to cruise at freeway speed. I forgot to swap the speedo gears. Since I'm running 195\60 tires the 240 gear read high. The 1980 ZX had a 3.7 rear gear so now it reads low. But close enough for a good approximation. Hope I didn't bore you all with this. Hopefully it will help the next guy or gal getting ready to do this job.

Very F'n cool!

I made some modifications to my signature line. I just want to see if it all works. Disregard, and sorry for the wasted bandwidth.

Jeff, #1 get the car. That task includes, all the shopping for the best deal for the best condition car you can find. Resources - this web site, Any local Z club or other enthusiast in your area, Web and paper based car classifieds and word of mouth. #2 The sexy, great-running, fine handling car will follow depending on your enthuiasm, dedication, hard work and dollar bills. We'll help you there by sharing the road to your goal, Urging you on, taunting you with photos of perfect Z's and descriptions of perfect runs on perfect roads. Enjoy the ride.

I susspect the sender does not match the gauge. I took a sender from a 280 and installed it on my 240 and it read over 90 psi while revving and about half way during idle. I bought a new sender from MSA. They sell the early R-1600 (roadster) sender for the 240. It's more accurate and lasts longer. But you've got to replace the "bullet" style connector with an "eyelet" style.