Victor Laury

Just a quick hop. Not more than 2,000 miles straight North. Could anyplace be more remote than Edmonton AB? Oh yea! that Yellow Knife town.

The sticky tape works....kinda works, or should I say, I made it work. I was as carefull as possible in placing the mounting tabs, but there is more stress on the bottom tab, no matter what. I followed the instructions, and waited 24 hours before mounting the covers. The bottom tabs still lifted off. I adjusted them by stacking layers of the sticky tape (3M High Adhesion) until it was a stress free environment. There's no way I'm going to drill into my HL buckets. I take them off to clean under them every 2nd car wash. No real hassle there. But, the rewards are great, since the install, My car gets more curbside compliments than any other car I've ever owned.

I was researching which bosch relays and relay holders to suggest to you, and then I saw the PainlessWiring site. Screw it. #30815 - For H-4 halogen lights * $60.00 at AutoZone or you local eqivalent. I think you'd blow that much gathering up the parts. This kit has it all ready for you. 2 relays and holders, fuse and holder, all the wire and new headlight connectors all made up and ready to go. Why bother?

At least MB is making some beauty cars. I drove up on a new 2 door sports coupe the other day, I theink it was a SRL 500 "Barabus". I may have the designation wrong, but it ws a BEAUTIFUL car! The BMW Z8 is fantastic! I just don't have an extra $100,000+ to spare at this moment - or actualy, I don't have an extra $100 at this moment.

hows this, From the roadster parts manual Roadster Parts Manual At the bottom of the page, you see a comparasen of the Waso and the Voss. My 70 roadster key is shaped like the the one described as "Voss." So would the ones on ZParts.com Zparts.com

I generally use a new set of plugs. cleans them up perfectly

Ahaha, That 71 key is the same as the 69 and 70 Roadster. That's what we Roadster officinatos reffer to as the "Voss" key set. Willing to be it was used those years on all models. Obviously, Nissan used the Voss key set (the single sided, oval fob) to the 71 model year. The, changed to the double sided key set.

Busted! Yes, That's the stock U.S. Left mirror. I bought a new one for the drivers side, then I polished up the old one and hated to waste it, so I mounted it on the passenger side. It gets more attention at Z shows than any other feature on the car. It's not a very good right side mirror, because it's flat, the field of veiw is too narrow to be effective. So, I stuck on a 3'' stick-on convex mirror. If you look at my car from dead ahead, you'd see that the mirrors don't match in the attachment angle. If you have a buddy down-under, the stock R.H.D. mirror will perfectly match the angle of our Lefty. And, visa versa for ours for them. Sounds like a mirror exchange program is warrented.

Clean, Clean, Clean! Block paint - CDM makes a good match in spray cans. To apply it whithout taking the engine out, or everything off, spray the paint on a paper plate, then brush it on with a foam brush. Buy a bunch of the foam brushes, as the paint dissolves them. Plated parts - I've slowly but surely replaced every Zinc dichromate plated part in my engine room. Before that, I used Eastwoods "Golden Cad System" with some success. It doesn't "really" match a true plated finish, But it doesn't look bad. Keeping it clean - Maguire's "Quick Detail" is now a permanate part of my tool kit. It works great on the inner fenders and firewall, removing the grease in the seams and pores, sealing it up as well. My engine looks ok, my engine

Your photo looks like my keys as well. The round one is for the doors and hatch, the square one for the ignition. Mine's a late 72. My early 72 was the same.

I'm hoping it's not for the factory roll bar. Nissan placed mounting points, very much like these, in the roadster for the roll bar. I wouldn't expect much protection from them. The sheet metal would tear away and you'd be wearing the bar as a neck tie.

Tom, Enrique has given you sagely advice. Let's see if I can add some at equal value. First - Where are you at? Chances are, you have a CZCC member in your area to help you evaluate a prospective purchase. Having more than one set of eyes to check out a car is never a bad thing. 2nd - Be prepared to walk away. God, I wish I had taken this point to heart when I bought my first Z. Lets say you drive 100 miles, with the purchase money in your pocket. The seller says "This IS the car you've been looking for". If that Fairlady is not as fair as you expect - Walk AWAY! I swear, the day after you compromise, the car you REALLY wanted comes on the market. 3rd - Be prepared to check out the car. Wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty. Bring a flashlight. Get down on your back and look ant the frame rails. Use your hands and feel under the battery.

I've been tring to find a good box too. I just keep sticking it in to every one I find and try them out. Oh, we're talking car parts? Oops! ... never mind.

As Mike described, I bought the quartz converted clock, sold by MSA, built by this ZClock4U fellow. It appears to be a quality product. The AA battery will last over a year. it has a long lead attached to the battery holder, so you can position the battery down by the fuse panel for easy access. I sure like knowing what time it is! But, even more obsessive, I can't stand for inoperative functions in my Z! Everything Must Work!

I predict a run on the maket for 88 civic blower motors. I know I'll be getting 1 within the week! I'm not A/C'd but I use the blower to keep me "somewhat" cooled. Thanks Mushpork5 for paving the way.

Wasn't the 240 and the NA 911 both in C prod during the years where the 240 took the Championship? I believe so.. I'd say that consecutive championships are the "proof in the pudding", as it were. BUT - there's more than one Porsche. I don't think the Z car and the 930 TT Carrera is any match.

I bought the "aftermarket", "modern" auto antenna from MSA. It was a clean installation. I ran an un-switched 12 volt wire and the antenna motor signal wire together along the path of the rear harness. Six months of good duty so far.

Plastic - Not Glass Glass media is too aggressive. Plastic media blasting is the way to go. You don't get the warping. This will only attack the paint, bondo and leaded areas. It won't touch the rust. That part is for you. :mad: $400 to $600 for plastic blasting a complete stripped down Z is a good deal considering all the time and the mess created if youj do it.

I brought my valve cover up to bright with just wheel polishing. If you must have perfect polish, you need to get rid of all surface defects with sanding through the grades. The problem is, the valve covers are pretty porous castings. So, as you're sanding to get rid of the holes, you open new ones up! I've gotten pretty good at poishing, these last few years and have collected quite a few tools to do it right. I have 2 large motors that run the different compounds on 10'' wheels, and a big slow motor for a sanding arbor. For finished aluminum, I start with Emory compound to take out most of the small imperfections. then I solvent wash between each of the next copmpounds - Stainless - Tripoli - White rouge. You got to keep your wheels clean as the clog up with aluminum and start to fog the work. On raw castings, there's no choice but grinding and sanding before the wheels see it. I'm scared to do my Carb domes because I'm worried about distorting them with the heat and pressure of polishing. It would be a bummer to have pretty domes with stuck pistons. True?

Right Carl, He's reffering to the distributor cam, the little cam with the lobes that open the points. On Datsun dizzies, the centrifugal advance is mounted on this. Distributor Advance = Centrifugal Advance CA). This figure is multiplied by 2 for crank advance. 8.5 X 2 = 17 degrees. Now our cars, as well as most others, on pump gas, run with a Total Advance (TA) between 28 ~ 35. Compression, cam lift and duration, mixture and altitude will effect the setting of TA. But, I would not exceed 35 on a stock engine. If you have a WILD, full on racing cam, you may not be able to start a car with less than 35 degrees TA. But a stocker, on pump premium might knock itself to death. So let's use a benchmark starting point of a 32 degree TA. and fine tune it later. 32 TA - 17 CA = 15 degrees initial timing (at idle). INITIAL TIMING - Is the point where the distributor is set in the engine prior to start-up. This timing can be advanced or retarded by moving the distributor. CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE - Is a function of the engine RPM and will increase as the engine's RPM increases. The centrifugal advance is controlled by the weights and springs insides the distributor. TOTAL ADVANCE - Is the total of initial advance, centrifugal advance added together.

They showed up on the US market roadster, mid model year 69 though the 70 model year to end of production. I believe that would be the start of the calender year 1969.

Mine is driven to work daily. But, I live 4 miles from work - and- I've been throgh just about every main system on the car (see my journal) so I have quite a bit of confidence in the car at this point. ( I hope that statment doesn't curse me to break down today)

I just bought a beautifull set of 40 Mikuni PHH's, manifold and K&N "box" stlye filters. The manifold has "Mikuni" cast into the mounting flange. On the other hand I've got a perfect set of SU's, restored by Z therapy, polished manifold, all replated hardware and a restored air filter with the K&N element. Which one to install? Eeney, meneey. mineey mo, tell me which one that should go,.....

Well, I for one Loved it! I try to live in reality. Here's how I see that reality, We have an S head for president, that we didn't vote into office and the whole world laughs at us. It would be the perfect "Funnybone" if it didn't hurt so much.

Drive faster, harder. You'll feel much better when you get her down to 12 MPG